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Momma_Jo
01-11-2008, 08:57 PM
If I have to check gauge on a sample 18 rows long...it means I do a cast-on row, then knit 18 rows, then do a bind-off, and then check the length, correct? Or is it cast-on, 16 rows, bind-off and then check the length?

It's always the basics, isn't it.

Abbily
01-11-2008, 09:02 PM
You generally want to knit more length and width than the gauge measurement calls for, just because edge tension can be different than 'middle' tension. If you are supposed to measure 18 rows, I'd knit probably 25 or so.

RoseFairy
01-11-2008, 09:23 PM
As Abbily said you usually want your gauge swatch to be a bit longer then the amount you want to measure so you can get the middle tension. Also you start counting the stitches by fully developed stitches so you wouldn't include cast on or bind off edges in your gauage.

ArtLady1981
01-12-2008, 09:47 AM
Abbilly is correct! I agree! :thumbsup:

However, some yarns just won't give you perfect stitch gauge as well as perfect row gauge. Stitch (width-wise) gauge is most important to get right.

Row gauge is usually not as critical. I have only knit a few sweaters where row gauge had to be absolutely perfect. They were Viking Knits patterns.

This was one:
http://www.ingenkonst.se/images/tordis.jpg
The "inset cables" had to begin, and end, in just the right places.

dmknits
01-18-2008, 08:49 PM
As Abbily said you usually want your gauge swatch to be a bit longer then the amount you want to measure so you can get the middle tension. Also you start counting the stitches by fully developed stitches so you wouldn't include cast on or bind off edges in your gauage.

I keep seeing people say this so now I'm confused....

I have the Leisure Arts book The All New Teach Yourself to Knit by Evie Rosen. Evie Rosen's knitting credentials listed in the book and on the internet seem pretty long and impressive. I mention that because, in the book, she says that you are to knit the number of stitches and rows indicated and that you are to measure the swatch from edge to edge. Copyright date of book is 1992. Is she wrong? Has the standard method changed since then?

Just wondering if there are different opinions on this.

knittingymnast
01-19-2008, 08:52 AM
That is not a silly question! I have WAY more silly questions! :roflhard: No, just kidding. Like Beldaraan said, no question is dumb/silly. I would CO, and knit about 20 -25 rows just to make sure that it is long enough to be checked. I have made the mistake in previous times when I didn't knit long enough. :doh: :doh: :doh: :doh:

suzeeq
01-19-2008, 11:44 AM
It really is more accurate to use more stitches and rows than the gauge indicates for 4" so you can measure the middle stitches. The edge stitches are not always the same `size' so it can throw you off. Many books or patterns do suggest using only the number of stitches for 4", it doesn't make them any more right or wrong, I think it's just for convenience and maybe for them they always measure 4" square.

dmknits
01-19-2008, 03:14 PM
It really is more accurate to use more stitches and rows than the gauge indicates for 4" so you can measure the middle stitches. The edge stitches are not always the same `size' so it can throw you off. Many books or patterns do suggest using only the number of stitches for 4", it doesn't make them any more right or wrong, I think it's just for convenience and maybe for them they always measure 4" square.

Thanks for the information, suzeeq. I think I'll go ahead and stick to the edge to edge method for now unless I notice it becoming a problem for me.