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ArtLady1981
01-20-2009, 12:25 PM
Hi everyone! :waving:

GinnyG found a positively adorable coat back in December.
Several of us have been discussing this coat since then!
We decided to begin knitting it together on February 1st!

The coat is called SYLVI (http://www.twistcollective.com/collection/index.php/component/content/article/60-winter-2008-patterns/147-sylvi-by-mari-muinonen)!
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3497/3299076689_d02c81fd3f.jpg
This coat was knit by knitwitmom (http://www.ravelry.com/projects/knitwitmom/sylvi), Moderator in the
Sylvi Group over at Ravelry. We have her permission
to post this most beautiful version! Thanks, Linda!
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3313/3299073391_1ae6e29810.jpg

Knit primarily in seed stitch, with beautiful cable work on the BACK.
BTW: the flower petals are knit separately and stitched onto the BACK. The vines and leaves are 'knit into' the BACK. It requires a bulky yarn, so it will be a relatively quick knit.

Would you care to join us? :grphug:

The thread in which we were discussing the preliminaries for SYLVI is located HERE (http://www.knittinghelp.com/forum/showthread.php?t=86493). GinnyG started the thread and called it A PROJECT FOR ARTLADY! We'll lock that thread on Feb 1st. All future SYLVI discussions will take place here in the SYLVI knitalong.

You will still be able to read our comments in that discussion thread after it's locked. Our comments might be of use to you!

BTW, Ravelry has a SYLVI group (http://www.ravelry.com/groups/sylvi-kal) that has a lot of interesting discussions, especially regarding modifications. Some SYLVI knitters have hucked the hood and made a collar instead; some have modified the cuffs; some have shortened Sylvi into cropped jacket with a zipper; some have incorporated side slit pockets! You can see those projects and read all about them over at the Ravelry Sylvi Group. There is one discussion in the Group regarding yarn substitutions that is particularly helpful. Some have successfully used Cascade 109 and Lamb's Pride Bulky and saved on yarn costs. Both are excellent yarns. I had some Winter White Rowan POLAR in my Stash, so I will be using it.

The designer also participates in the Ravelry Sylvi Group so that is a real blessing, too. She has been very helpful to the group.

An important NOTE: before beginning our coat, it is imperative that we knit a gauge swatch with our selected yarn.

As for me, rather than knitting the BACK first as I usually do, I'm going to knit the SLEEVES first, then the FRONTS, and lastly, the BACK and hood. I am knitting in this order to get a feel for the yarn and the gauge. The row gauge might be particularly useful information when knitting the BACK.

So we hope you will join us for the SYLVI KNITALONG on February 1st!

You may begin commenting in this thread now if you like. We will answer your questions. You don't have to wait til February 1st.

slugmom
01-21-2009, 03:27 PM
I'm in!
This is my first BIG project.
I have my yarn (Cascade 109 in delphinium)
I need to knit my gauge swatch
And it may take me to next Feb to finish LOL

-Kim

KnitTogether
01-21-2009, 04:18 PM
I'm in!
This is my first BIG project.
I have my yarn (Cascade 109 in delphinium)
I need to knit my gauge swatch
And it may take me to next Feb to finish LOL

-Kim
How many skeins of cascade did it call for?

ArtLady1981
01-21-2009, 07:13 PM
SYLVI requires anywhere from 1,632-1,904 yards, depending on the size, using Briggs & Little Atlantic as the original yarn. Yardage is yardage, but maybe there could be a variance if we're using a substitute bulky weight yarn.

Sizes are 34; 38; 41.5; 44.5; 47
Skeins: 12; 12; 13; 13; 14
Yards per skein on Briggs&Little Atlantic: 136 yds each

I read that this coats grows a bit, and it kinda stretchy...so if you are a bust of 42 or 43...the 41.5 will prolly work rather than the 44.5". Unless you like a real roomy coat.

Just something I read. That is not in the official pattern.

GinnyG
01-21-2009, 07:30 PM
:woot: I'm in!

Lambs Pride Bulky in LIPSTICK RED!

I won't be able to start til February but hope to start guage swatching soon!

evona
01-21-2009, 07:53 PM
Of course I'm in too! Can't wait! :thumbsup:

gargoylelib
01-22-2009, 03:22 AM
SYLVI requires anywhere from 1,632-1,904 yards, depending on the size, using Briggs & Little Atlantic as the original yarn. Yardage is yardage, but maybe there could be a variance if we're using a substitute bulky weight yarn.

Sizes are 34; 38; 41.5; 44.5; 47
Skeins: 12; 12; 13; 13; 14
Yards per skein on Briggs&Little Atlantic: 136 yds each

I read that this coats grows a bit, and it kinda stretchy...so if you are a bust of 42 or 43...the 41.5 will prolly work rather than the 44.5". Unless you like a real roomy coat.

Just something I read. That is not in the official pattern.
I'm still trying to decide if I want to do this one. Actually, I do want to do it since I'm a cable freak and this is beautiful but I have a 48" bust measurement and I haven't been too sure about upsizing. I keep hearing that it's very stretchy so I don't know that I would need to upsize. I don't want to go to all the trouble of upsizing the pattern if it is unneccessary but I don't want to knit it up only to find that it doesn't fit well.
Ugh!

Libbie

ArtLady1981
01-22-2009, 05:04 AM
...but I have a 48" bust measurement and I haven't been too sure about upsizing. I keep hearing that it's very stretchy so I don't know that I would need to upsize. I don't want to go to all the trouble of upsizing the pattern if it is unneccessary but I don't want to knit it up only to find that it doesn't fit well.
Ugh! Libbie

Hi Libbie! :waving:

I looked at the schematics for this pattern. The size 47.5" size gives this information: at the widest part for the chest just before the raglan decreases begin is 14" for each FRONT, and 23.5" for the BACK...a total of 51.5" around...which allows some for seaming.

However, why couldn't you plan to cast on additional stitches for the FRONTS ONLY...treating them as residents of the front edges where the buttons and buttonholes go.

Do all your side decreasing as per usual...but you will know (and you could place a stitch marker at each point) that you have an additional, let's say 6 st living along the FRONT'S edges. The gauge is 12 st = 4"...so 6 extra stitches for each FRONT will increase your bust area by 4". That oughta do.

Well, give it some thought. The FRONTS are pretty plain...and it seems like you should be able to add some extra room for God's Gifts! :wink:

I know that these 6 extra stitches will make the FRONTS wider from the bottom up. Another idea is: cast on the recommended number of stitches, but don't decrease as much or as dramatically, leaving out 6 decreases for each FRONT. This is another way to get back those 6 extra stitches without casting on more stitches from the get-go.

GinnyG
01-22-2009, 06:20 AM
I spent some time last night looking at the Sylvi projects on Ravelry. There are some beeeeeautiful coats that are completed. I decided to stick to the pattern, hood and all. The only modification I think I will make is I am not going to put buttons and button holes but am going to use clasps. There was a hunter green with pewter clasps that just looked lovely.

For anyone "upsizing" the clasps rather than button holes will give you a bit more ease because there is no overlap.

Karina
01-22-2009, 06:58 AM
I am still waiting for my yarn, I think it will be next week before I get it now.

Artlady - are you sticking with the pattern, or are you working on doing a pattern on the front. I was wondering if you had pattern on one half of the front and not the orther will it muck up your stitch/row gauge.

gargoylelib
01-22-2009, 10:02 AM
Hi Libbie! :waving:

I looked at the schematics for this pattern. The size 47.5" size gives this information: at the widest part for the chest just before the raglan decreases begin is 14" for each FRONT, and 23.5" for the BACK...a total of 51.5" around...which allows some for seaming.

However, why couldn't you plan to cast on additional stitches for the FRONTS ONLY...treating them as residents of the front edges where the buttons and buttonholes go.

Do all your side decreasing as per usual...but you will know (and you could place a stitch marker at each point) that you have an additional, let's say 6 st living along the FRONT'S edges. The gauge is 12 st = 4"...so 6 extra stitches for each FRONT will increase your bust area by 4". That oughta do.

Well, give it some thought. The FRONTS are pretty plain...and it seems like you should be able to add some extra room for God's Gifts! :wink:

I know that these 6 extra stitches will make the FRONTS wider from the bottom up. Another idea is: cast on the recommended number of stitches, but don't decrease as much or as dramatically, leaving out 6 decreases for each FRONT. This is another way to get back those 6 extra stitches without casting on more stitches from the get-go.

Ah, now that is a really good idea! I hadn't considered just adding some to the fronts but that would probably do it. Thank you ArtLady!! Definitely something to seriously think about....hmmm... ugh, I'm supposed to be destashing, not finding a pattern that requires me to go buy yarn. Might have to sneak it in and "find" it in my stash :rofl:

I really would like this coat but I don't care for the flowers. If I do go ahead and jump on this I'll probably just do leaf vines all the way up instead.

Libbie

Woodi
01-22-2009, 10:27 AM
haha, it will be a few years before I can even think of making anything as beautiful and complex as the Sylvi coat. But I will enjoy watching everyone's progress. Happy knitting to you all!

ArtLady1981
01-22-2009, 02:59 PM
Hi Karina!

Oh, you reminded me! :wink: I remember thinking about implanting one vine, two leaves and one flower into the RIGHT FRONT SIDE. Oh gads. I don't know. I haven't quite wrapped my mind around modifications yet. :??

Hood/no hood? Fancy-work hood/plain seed stitch hood? :think: Collar? Zipper? Clasps? Buttons? :think: Plain Right Front/Fancy Right Front? Side to side cuffs/ribbed cuffs? Plain seed stitch sleeves/fancy-work sleeves? :think: Inside-out seams/conventional mattress seams? :think: Pockets/no pockets?

The more options & modification I see, the more I lean to knitting the entire pattern AS SET FORTH by the designer! :teehee:

First to knit: SLEEVES> I will make the cuffs as per pattern. I like them and I think they dress up the sleeve. Her cuff is classy. No further embellishments or designs on the sleeves. Plain seed stitch as per pattern.

Next to knit: LEFT FRONT>as per pattern

Next to knit: RIGHT FRONT>decisions need to be made regarding 1) chart 'design elements' incorporated into it (or not) and 2) buttonholes (or not)

Next to knit: BACK>as per pattern

Last to knit: HOOD>decisons, decisions :think: I'll think about the HOOD as I knit the other parts of the coat first.

ArtLady1981
01-22-2009, 03:01 PM
...If I do go ahead and jump on this I'll probably just do leaf vines all the way up instead. Libbie

That's a cool idea, Libbie! That would be very classy and simple!
I like that idea a lot! :thumbsup:

slugmom
01-22-2009, 04:18 PM
How many skeins of cascade did it call for?

I bought 17, which would be 1853 yards, between the L and XL requirements by yardage.

slugmom
01-22-2009, 04:31 PM
I have a question about sizes ... I've never knit anything like this before where size matters, LOL

So it says finished bust measurement :
34 (38, 41 1/2, 44 1/2, 47)”
Referred to throughout pattern as
XS (S, M, L, XL)

My over-clothes bust measurement is 41" or so -- so that would mean the M would *just fit* assuming it knit up right to size? No roominess? So I'd want a size up from the number that is closest?

Or do the measurements mean what size charts for pre-made clothing mean; "Fits a bust size of 41.5" and that already includes any intended roominess?

I hope my question makes sense ... do I need to include my own guess at desired roominess?

I don't want it stretched-to-fit across my bust with the button holes gaping! Eek! But I don't want to swim in it, either. I'm not a big woman, but I do have the nursing mama bust going on ...

I guess I need to finish my gauge swatch(es) too, though, before starting out.

evona
01-22-2009, 07:47 PM
Since my youngest is now 17 I decided to finish up my degree and just started school. I am doing the weekend college at Mount St. Mary's College here and my first weekend was 1/17,18. INTENSE!!! I love that I am going back to school but it will definitely slow me down on the jacket. I may still be at it long after you all are done :teehee: I'm still in though :thumbsup:

evona
01-22-2009, 07:51 PM
. . .
I don't want it stretched-to-fit across my bust with the button holes gaping! Eek! But I don't want to swim in it, either. I'm not a big woman, but I do have the nursing mama bust going on ...

I guess I need to finish my gauge swatch(es) too, though, before starting out.

Consider that the nursing mama bust is only temporary :wink:

KnitTogether
01-22-2009, 09:10 PM
Just fyi... there are a ton of colors of Cascade 109 on sale on
Web's American Yarn Store (on line), at $3.99 each!:yay:

http://www.yarn.com/webs-knitting-crochet-yarns-closeouts-new-closeouts/webs-knitting-yarns-cascade-109-solids/

ArtLady1981
01-22-2009, 11:07 PM
Just fyi... there are a ton of colors of Cascade 109 on sale on
Web's American Yarn Store (on line), at $3.99 each!:yay:

http://www.yarn.com/webs-knitting-crochet-yarns-closeouts-new-closeouts/webs-knitting-yarns-cascade-109-solids/

http://bestsmileys.com/wow/3.gif
You are sure right about that!!!

ArtLady1981
01-22-2009, 11:14 PM
...I have a question about sizes....

You are destined to be a great sweater knitter! :thumbsup:
You are already looking ahead and asking pertinent questions BEFORE launching!

"Finished size" or "finished bust measurements" is exactly as stated.
EG: the size 47" is 47" around at the bust.

And most patterns state the FINISHED (all seamed up) sizes.

Yes, to get the right fit, measure your bustline at the largest part and add at least 2-6" to that. This will allow for 'ease' as it's called.

STANDARD BODY MEASUREMENTS & SIZING (http://www.yarnstandards.com/sizing.html). This link has a "table" that gives suggestions for tight fit, close fit, standard fit, and loose fit.

It is your preference. I like to add at least 4" for a coat.

silegose
01-23-2009, 12:05 PM
Artlayd... Thanks for posting this site. I just seen this kal but I can not join because I have started a different jacket. However, I did have these same kind of questions with mine and this will help me in my creation.
Thanks again

slugmom
01-24-2009, 01:19 PM
Okay, thanks, assuming I (ever finish my gauge swatch and) get correct gauge, I'll go with the L! Thank you for that link, too!

Kithic
01-24-2009, 06:01 PM
I'm in! I chose Cascade 109 in Red. I did my gauge swatch today and it came out perfect on 10's. I can't wait to get started, though it will probably take me a million years to finish!:)

ArtLady1981
01-26-2009, 03:11 AM
Hi! :waving:

In preparation for any cabled project, I always make an enlarged copy of the "key" for the charts and then I "color code" the chart first, then the charts themselves. I enlarged my charts before color coding.

If you decide to color code these very busy charts, PLEASE color code the KEY first. Then...put a ruler under each row of the chart, starting with Row 1, and color code all the chart's cable symbols to match the KEY. Then move on to Row 3. Don't be tempted to hunt all over the chart for the same symbol and color code all c5r's first. You will drive yourself crazy. Color code your charts methodically...row by row from the bottom up. Line by line. Then you will not miss anything, and you will not color code something in error. Don't rush yourself. Get it right. You can't erase it. You can only re-print the charts and re-do the colors. Ick.

Warning: I found two sets of 5-stitch cable chart symbols that are nearly identical. Be on the lookout for them.

Here is a snippet from a color coded KEY:
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3306/3234728092_9d14d8c837.jpg?v=0

Here is a snippet of how to apply the color coding to a chart:
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3086/3233878311_7d0cb05c8c.jpg?v=0

Karina
01-26-2009, 05:24 AM
Wow That looks great. I must print out my copy and have a good look at it. Have not really studied the pattern yet. I did not want to be distracted away from other projects until my yarn arrived. I am hoping it will come this week.

I will be colour coding my chart as well. Makes the whole process so much easier.

GinnyG
01-26-2009, 06:18 AM
I first learned how to color code cable patterns from you!!! GREAT idea and I have done it ever since, no matter how simple or complicated.

These charts are a bit overwhelming, my first thought was they must be enlarged. Usually with a pattern I can throw it on teh copier and enlarge, BUT NOT THESE!! Did you take them somewhere to enlarge them?

ArtLady1981
01-26-2009, 04:19 PM
Yes, I'm certain that Office Depot or Staples printing services department can enlarge the charts for you. Don't know cost.

However, you could also enlarge it yourself by:

1) open your SYLVI pdf chart using Adobe Reader
2) enlarge chart 1/page 6 to 150%, or whatever larger size is still completely viewable widthwise within the computer screen (whatever isn't viewable won't print)
3) Click on “File”, then “Print”. In the window that opens now, there’s a section called "Print Range" with gives you the possibility to specifically enter which pages you want to print. In your case, Select the button called "Current View". (your current view will be something like chart rows 1-64 only)
4) click OK

It will print the enlarged view, of let's say chart rows 1-64.
Then do the same with the top half of the chart, picking up chart rows 65-80

Repeat this two step printing process for the second page of the chart.

I like printing the 4 pages of charts cuz they are still a manageable size to handle.

Hey, if you do take your charts to Staples or Office Depot, you could request they use a heavier wt. paper! This would make the handling much easier. Less flimsy.

Another way to enlarge your charts yourself is: print the chart as per normal. Next, lay the top half on the scanner, and use the printers capability to enlarge what is laying on the scanner.
Then repeat the process for the other half of the chart.
I usually do this when the chart is in a book or leaflet.
But in the case of pdf pattern Sylvi, I could use the FILE>PRINT>PRINT RANGE>CURRENT VIEW>OK route.

Jan in CA
01-26-2009, 04:25 PM
(Jan, I am going to post this a bit larger than normal so that folks can click it to blow it up and really see what I've done, ok?)


:teehee: Okay!

GinnyG
01-26-2009, 04:30 PM
THANKS, something tells me I'm going to want to enlarge AND laminate this pattern!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Kithic
01-26-2009, 08:46 PM
I would have never thought to color code the pattern, of course, I have never done anything quite so complicated either! I would probably have been going all crazy and crossed eyed trying to figure out what the difference was between all those symbols too. Thanks!

I did manage a cuff and about 7 inches of seed stitch for the first sleeve last night. It makes for very nice mindless knitting TV time!

ArtLady1981
01-26-2009, 10:21 PM
BTW, line by line, row by row, this cable chart isn't all that hard.
It's just that there are soooo many symbols. GADS.

It's kinda like Fair Isle Knitting...a sweater might have a hundred different colors, but you only have to deal with two at a time per row! :teehee: So, row by row...it ain't all that bad!

ArtLady1981
01-27-2009, 03:00 PM
I've decided to eliminate the HOOD in favor of this standup
style collar that I saw over in the SYLVI Group on Rav.
http://www.ravelry.com/projects/Raia/sylvi
She stated that she started knitting from the
neckline of the FRONTS and BACK with 1x1 ribbing
for double the height she wanted the collar, and turned
it to the inside and whip stitched it into place. She worked
2 button holes, as the PHOTO ABOVE shows. I think it
would require making 4 holes so that when the
collar in turned down to the inside, they match up and
create just two real buttonholes. She didn't elaborate
all that much. Anyhoo, this is the PERFECT collar for me.

I've also decided I'm not going to work the inside-out seam.
I am not wild about it at all.
I'm going to work the conventional mattress seam.

It is a standup collar, and doesn't lay down over any
of the flowers and leaves in the BACK.

GinnyG
01-27-2009, 03:02 PM
LOVE that collar!!!!

Will have to check with my daughter to see what she thinks.

Karina
01-28-2009, 11:37 AM
I just got a letter today from Parcel Force saying they have my yarn, so I have paid the customs duty and hopefully it will be here tomorrow or Friday.

I not sure what I will do about the hood yet, but I think I will do a normal seam as I don't like the seams on the outside. Would like to do something on the fronts as the coat looks a bit bland if you don't know what is on the back.

ArtLady1981
01-28-2009, 02:09 PM
Would like to do something on the fronts as the coat looks a bit bland if you don't know what is on the back.

Hi Karina! :waving:

I agree with you about the FRONTS. :think: I'm still mulling it over.

When you look at the FRONT, ho hum....ho hummmmmm.

Then, when you turn around: BLAM!
There's a surprising EXPLOSION of detail from top to bottom.

OK, here is a way we could approach it:

1) knit the sleeves first (this gives us a good 'feel' for the gauge)

2) knit the LEFT FRONT plain (I wouldn't put motifs on both FRONTS...it would be overkill)

3) knit the BACK (we can view the 'real deal' and this helps us assess the look and size of all the motif possibilities)

4) knit the RIGHT FRONT, making a decision about what motifs to include in it; after knitting the entire BACK, we'll have a good 'feel' for the cable motifs; we can decide what parts of the cable motifs to extract from the chart and incorporate into the RIGHT FRONT; it could be something as simple as one flower, vine, and two leaves trailing up from the hem of the RIGHT FRONT!

5) join sleeves to body and knit the hood (or collar)

As I said in an earlier post, I am always fighting with the length of my sleeves. I am a 5' gal, so my arms are proportionately shorter as well. I'm going to knit my sleeves just to 15" before starting the raglan shaping, put the sleeve stitches on waste yarn...and won't finish the sleeves til the LEFT FRONT and BACK are done. This will allow me to mock-seam (clip) the BACK, LEFT FRONT and half LEFT SLEEVE together for a 'fitting'. By that try-on, I'll know whether or not to leave the sleeve at 15" and start the raglan shaping at the armholes...or knit some more length to the sleeve.

This coat will be a very simple knit for the most part. By taking time to tinker around with such details as swatching, our sleeve length, try-on fittings, etc...we will ensure a good fitting coat!

It is rather fun to plan this coat, isn't it? The modification possibilities are endless! Modifying the coat to suit our own body type and our own taste is interesting.

BTW, I am in the process of getting directions on how modify the coat to fit a bustier woman. I posted the issue over at the Rav group. Someone there has promised to post new directions (in the TWIST BLOG) for modifying the coat to fit a well-endowed bust.

Karina
01-28-2009, 06:08 PM
Artlady that sounds like a good plan to me.

Wanda Witch
01-28-2009, 06:19 PM
I love the collar idea. I was hoping someone would come up with something other than the hood, and thanks for sharing, ArtLady. I am going to block my three swatches which I used 10,10/12 and 11 needles. I am certain it will indeed be the size 11 and then will start color-coding. I don't think my printer will enlarge the chart sufficiently but will fiddle around and maybe it will. :woohoo:

ArtLady1981
01-29-2009, 03:58 AM
Another idea for the plain FRONTS, and I saw this over at Ravelry SYLVO Group: Knit some pockets up, big squares or rectangles; stitch them onto SYVLI either the conventional mounting with the opening at the north...or a side mounting, with your hand entering from the side. We could embellish the front of the pocket with some I-cord stems, a couple of simple leaves, and maybe a small knitted flower.

Here is Rain's SYLVI:
http://www.ravelry.com/projects/Rain/sylvi

GinnyG
01-29-2009, 06:20 AM
:cheering: :cheering: :woot: :woot: :woot: :cheering: :cheering: :woot: :woot: :woot:

WOOHOOOOOOOOOOO

last night I finished February Ladies Sweater!!! My LAST big progject that I vowed to complete before starting Sylvi. Tonight i swatch!!!!!!!!!

WOOOHOOOOOOOOOOO

This is a long Firehouse weekend so knitting will commence!!!


Just found out that Kinkos can enlarge to charts to 11 x 17 for about 40 cents per page. Headed there on my lunch hour.

Karina
01-29-2009, 10:44 AM
Got my yarn this morning, Cascade 109LE. Very Pleased with it. it is lovely and soft and ooh so purple, my favorite.
+

Here is a photo, excuse the sorry state of the wound up ball of yarn. Don't have a yarn winder thingy, so used an empty loo roll. They do say practice makes perfect and I do have another 19 skeins that need winding up.

Have to go pick up the kids from school, hope to do my swatch before I have to start dinner.

I think if I put pocket in my coat I want them hiding in the seam line.

GinnyG
01-29-2009, 10:56 AM
LOVELY yarn!

GinnyG
01-29-2009, 01:30 PM
I went to Kinko's at lunch and had the graphs enlarged to 11 x 17, they will be MUCH easier to wrok with (at least for my old eyes). Unfortunately without thinking ahead I had them laminate the charts.......... I was going to color code them and forgot all about it.

Ideally I should have taken the enlargements home, color coded and taken them back to laminate. I am going to see how difficult they are "as is", I might end up redoing them.

Karina
01-29-2009, 01:57 PM
Ginny - Since the chart is larger it might be OK to use as is. maybe you could just put them sticky notes under the row you are knitting to keep on track.

Well done for finishing your sweater.

I have done my swatch with 6mm needles which I think is 11's, and get 12.5 stitches to 4 inches. I can live with that. my row gauge is completely off, at 21 rows per 4 inches not quite sure how the designer gets 16 rows with a yarn that is supposedly a little bit less bulky than the 109.

How would be the best way to wash and block this yarn. Hot or cold water. Artlady I am sorry to say I do not have any fiber wash, so would normal liquid soap do or should I use Shampoo. I have heard some people use shampoo with good result.

GinnyG
01-29-2009, 05:22 PM
Yea, I picked up a pack of post it's after I realized what I had done. I wasn't thinking, the shop girl said "we have a special on laminating, would you like it laminated" and I didn't stop to think, I was so excited at the thought of a LAMINATED graph!!

I am home from work and off to swatch.

ArtLady1981
01-29-2009, 06:58 PM
I'm seriously leaning towards the pockets! Dunno if top mounted, or side mounted...but pockets for sure. With some little decoration on them such as:

Karina
01-29-2009, 07:11 PM
Artlady that is just beautiful.

GinnyG
01-29-2009, 07:59 PM
Got gauge! Lambs Pride Bulky with size 10 needle!

Started the cuff........

Artlady have you started the sleeve? I think I am confused about ovelapping and sewing before picking up stitches. Back stitch??

The pattern doesn't have a good picture of the cuff.

ArtLady1981
01-29-2009, 08:13 PM
We'd usually color-code our charts first before laminating. Did you color-code before or after enlarging? I have some of the 'self-laminating' sheets. It's a cold laminating process. But they are only the standard sheet size 9x12 called SELF SEAL by GBC. Got a pack of 50 sheets at Office Depot or Staples.

**************************************************

To block: knit the pieces first. Don't block anything til all 5 pieces are knit. Never block with hot water. I use coolish water. Not frigid cold, not warm.

Yes, I've heard that some folks use shampoo, however, the PH of shampoo might not be the greatest. Do you have access to any type of sweater wash? Eucalan?

Anyone care to input on that one? I'm not fully informed.

I personally might not do the full bath style of blocking for SYLVI.
I might use my old standby: pin the pieces down to the blocking board and mist the tar out of them...and leave til bone dry. OR, lay damp towels on the pieces and leave til bone dry.

I always do the full bath style blocking when the yarn needs 'bloom' to fill in the stitches, or if the yarn needs to have excess dye and dye odor removed (as in Donegal Tweeds), or if the yarn is filthy (like Malabrigo Merino) from the get-go. You wouldn't believe how much soil comes out of Malabrigo!

This is the wash water left behind Malabrigo Merino
color "natural, undyed cream"!
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3254/2820765754_d209289f5d.jpg?v=0

The filth wasn't my fault! I knit this coat very quickly. The pieces were impeccable. But, hidden in the depths of the fiber was lots of soil from the sheep's wool. I think undyed Malabrigo is especially dirty cuz it doesn't receive the extra dunking from a dying process!

I don't think my Rowan POLAR will be this full of soil. At least I don't think so. :??

I'll wash my swatch in a small white saucer, and see if I get any soil from it!

ArtLady1981
01-29-2009, 08:19 PM
Got gauge! Lambs Pride Bulky with size 10 needle!

Started the cuff........

Artlady have you started the sleeve? I think I am confused about overlapping and sewing before picking up stitches. Back stitch??

The pattern doesn't have a good picture of the cuff.

There is a cuff diagram from the designer. She posted a rough diagram over at Rav for someone.


No, haven't cast on yet. Feb 1st. :thumbsup: I'll have more input about the cuffs after I cast on for them.

Am finishing up John's Jacket. Seaming all done, and currently in the process of knitting the collar. Next: installing the zipper, and slip-stitching the pocket linings in the inside!

The LOG CABIN stashghans for the January KH-KAL took a lot of my time away from John's Jacket...so I am really focusing on getting it done before SYLVI. I did allow myself the luxury of color-coding my charts though! I totally enjoyed that! And I got my folder prepared. But the actual knitting will have to wait til Feb 1st unless I get his jacket done tonight! I hope I do! But, it depends on how fussy and time-consuming the zipper is! Ach.

laikabear
01-30-2009, 01:25 AM
Hi everyone! It's getting close to Feb 1!

Like many of you, I'm trying to finish up other projects so I can focus on Sylvi. I did let myself start swatching. I'm using Cascade 109 and I'm a tight knitter, so I'm getting gauge on 11s. When I washed my swatch, I realized just how stretchy it gets when wet. I could pin it out huge or squish it down tiny. :( I ended up just letting it dry flat without pinning it. The fabric looks a little holier than I was hoping, though. I wanted a nice thick fabric. I think the seed stitch would look better on 10.5s. What to do, what to do?

Well, what I really did was hide the swatch in a drawer and get busy trying to finish my Swallowtail shawl. :teehee:

Anyway, look at what I found over on Ravelry!
http://www.ravelry.com/projects/anNu/sylvi-2 It's a heavily modified Sylvi sweater with the design on the front! :mrgreen: People sure are getting inspired by this pattern!

I have been debating long vs. short, zipper vs. buttons, collar vs. hood...

Karina
01-30-2009, 04:08 AM
Artlady - I just wanted to wash the swatch to see if the yarn changed gauge. I was wondering about the holes in the fabric. As Maureen said I to want a nice thick fabric.

Maureen thanks for the link. just love that sweater. I can see my self doing this pattern more than once with all the different modifications it has limitless possibilities.

ArtLady1981
01-30-2009, 04:25 AM
Hi everyone! It's getting close to Feb 1!

Like many of you, I'm trying to finish up other projects so I can focus on Sylvi. I did let myself start swatching. I'm using Cascade 109 and I'm a tight knitter, so I'm getting gauge on 11s. When I washed my swatch, I realized just how stretchy it gets when wet. I could pin it out huge or squish it down tiny. :( I ended up just letting it dry flat without pinning it. The fabric looks a little holier than I was hoping, though. I wanted a nice thick fabric. I think the seed stitch would look better on 10.5s. What to do, what to do?

Well, what I really did was hide the swatch in a drawer and get busy trying to finish my Swallowtail shawl. :teehee:

Anyway, look at what I found over on Ravelry!
http://www.ravelry.com/projects/anNu/sylvi-2 It's a heavily modified Sylvi sweater with the design on the front! :mrgreen: People sure are getting inspired by this pattern!

I have been debating long vs. short, zipper vs. buttons, collar vs. hood...

Hi Maureen!

Did you know that Ravelry 'Mari' Tikru (who knitted what she's calling SYLVI 2) is the actual designer of SYLVI #1? Yep. That's her! It's nice, however, I much prefer SYLVI #1. I think SYLVI 2 could be very cute on the right body type. Not mine! :teehee:

I decided NOT to block using the FULL DUNK wash method. I'm going to use the pin and spritz and leave til bone dry method. When it comes time for actually washing the coat...then the secret to re-sizing it to the original size is to first make a pin outline of the dry coat...then when it's wet you can lay it back down within the 'chalk outline'! It will be the perfect size once again! Been there, done that!

I learned this 'pin outline' trick from necessity. One of my favorite designers refuses to give schematics. So, before blocking the pieces, you have to make the pin outline to get the pieces back to the size they supposed to be, cuz sometimes when they're wet they grow enormously.

Yes, you're right...you can squish the pieces into slightly smaller schematics, or let them dry larger, or let them dry according to the schematics! You can do the same thing with the 'pin to the blocking board dry, mist the tar out of them, leave til bone dry' method, too.

ArtLady1981
01-30-2009, 04:30 AM
Artlady - I just wanted to wash the swatch to see if the yarn changed gauge. I was wondering about the holes in the fabric. As Maureen said I to want a nice thick fabric.

Maureen thanks for the link. just love that sweater. I can see my self doing this pattern more than once with all the different modifications it has limitless possibilities.

Hi Karina! I think you should wash the swatch and see if you can coax it into a thicker fabric. However, if you knit your coat pieces according to the gauge given (12st=4")...then squishing the pieces into thicker fabric will prolly result in a slightly smaller size. Maybe you could consider making a size larger so allow for the squish factor?

What size did you say you are making, Karina? How far off would the 'size up' be for your bustline and frame?

Karina
01-30-2009, 06:10 AM
I am thinking about making the next to the largest size I think 44 inch, but since doing the gauge swatch am thinking I might go down to 5.5mm needles and do the largest.

i am soaking my swatch and it is giving out a lot of colour. the water turned purple pretty much as soon as the fabric went in the water. Hope that is not a bad sign.

GinnyG
01-30-2009, 06:20 AM
i am soaking my swatch and it is giving out a lot of colour. the water turned purple pretty much as soon as the fabric went in the water. Hope that is not a bad sign.

I find alot of GOOD yarn does that, I wouldn't worry too much.

I am using Artlady's pin and spray blocking. I cannot imagine dousing the entire coat in water anyway, what a nightmare!!! This coat is for my daughter but I will recommend she dry clean, I cannot imagine her taking the care required to block and wash.

I was planning to work on this today and tomorrow, but decided to wait til the 1st, I'd much rather be following in Artladys's footsteps than breaking through the ice. So many questions, ALREADY:shock:

Karina
01-30-2009, 10:01 AM
After a couple of rinses the water was clear. I think I will wash and block just to get that extra colour out.

ArtLady1981
01-30-2009, 12:00 PM
Hi Karina! It is just excess dye coming out. Not to worry. Some yarns retain more excess dye than others. My daughter's leaf green Central Park Hoodie (Tahki Donegal Tweed) bled a lot of green excess dye into the wash and rinse water! I had to do the full bath blocking for it cuz that yarn is so 'hard' and scratchy. The washing and rinsing really softened it up and the stitches 'bloomed' really really nice. It isn't 'soft' like Malabrigo, of course, but it's now 'less scratchy'! That's Donegal Tweed for ya!

GOOD NEWS TO REPORT: My husband's "John's Jacket" is almost done! I'm in the homestretch! I finished the turned down stand-up collar last night, AND got the right side of the zipper stitched in! The left side is pinned, and needs stitching this morning! I think I'll knit some facings for the inside of the zipper... and then tack the pockets into place...and VOILA...done! :happydance:

SYLVI here I come! :knitting:

Wanda Witch
01-30-2009, 02:07 PM
I went to Kinko's at lunch and had the graphs enlarged to 11 x 17, they will be MUCH easier to wrok with (at least for my old eyes). Unfortunately without thinking ahead I had them laminate the charts.......... I was going to color code them and forgot all about it.

Ideally I should have taken the enlargements home, color coded and taken them back to laminate. I am going to see how difficult they are "as is", I might end up redoing them.

I have a set of BIC Mark-it Permanent markers. I tried one of the pens on some plastic and it did not come off. Maybe these would work over a laminated chart? Just a thought. I like the idea of having the chart laminated personally.

ArtLady1981
01-30-2009, 05:18 PM
Here is the collar I made for John's Jacket. It was knit by simply picking up the stitches all around the neckline and back neck edges...and then 1x1 rib for maybe 2.5"...then switch to a larger needle size and do a row of increases...then a couple plain rib rows, then increase row again, then a couple plain rib rows...then bind off when the entire thing is a bit over 5" tall. Turn the collar to the inside and whip stitch into place!

FYI: the purpose of the increase rows is to widen or fan out the collar so that the 'increase top portion' will be easier to whipstitch into place on the inside.

VOILA!

By being 'double'...it stands up nicely. I will do a collar similar to this for SYLVI. Just a nice, pert little standup collar. I could see a collar like this on Sylvi...but not the zipper necessarily. Maybe Celtic clasps? Or self yarn frogs and loops?

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3370/3239845546_9699289fef.jpg?v=0

leaette
01-30-2009, 05:29 PM
Beautiful but bet its hard, I'm still a newby

Wanda Witch
01-30-2009, 05:58 PM
Here is the collar I made for John's Jacket. It was knit by simply picking up the stitches all around the neckline and back neck edges...and then 1x1 rib for maybe 2.5"...then switch to a larger needle size and do a row of increases...then a couple plain rib rows, then increase row again, then a couple plain rib rows...then bind off when the entire thing is a bit over 5" tall. Turn the collar to the inside and whip stitch into place!

FYI: the purpose of the increase rows is to widen or fan out the collar so that the 'increase top portion' will be easier to whipstitch into place on the inside.

VOILA!

By being 'double'...it stands up nicely. I will do a collar similar to this for SYLVI. Just a nice, pert little standup collar. I could see a collar like this on Sylvi...but not the zipper necessarily. Maybe Celtic clasps? Or self yarn frogs and loops?

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3370/3239845546_9699289fef.jpg?v=0

I understand the instructions and why the increases would be necessary inside of the collar; however, when increasing in the 1x1 ribbing I am stumped. Where would the increases be within the ribbing and how many times? I just can't 'see' it in my mind yet. Thanks, anyone, for an explanation....:??

evona
01-30-2009, 06:29 PM
I understand the instructions and why the increases would be necessary inside of the collar; however, when increasing in the 1x1 ribbing I am stumped. Where would the increases be within the ribbing and how many times? I just can't 'see' it in my mind yet. Thanks, anyone, for an explanation....:??

Same question here :??

GinnyG
01-30-2009, 06:46 PM
I'm going with celtic clasps!!

ArtLady1981
01-30-2009, 11:24 PM
The first 2.5" of the collar is the "public side" and I maintained a perfect 1x1 rib. However, the second 2.5" will be the inside lining of the collar, next to the neck.

So, the M1 increases weirdED out the perfect 1x1 rib, but so what?

Here is how I did the first increase row, worked at about 2.75":

K1 P1 (K1 M1 P1) x 9....then 1x1 rib til the last 20 stitches; then work (P1 M1 K1) x 9, end with P1 K1.

On the next row, I worked the M1's as knits. Yeah, this weirded out my 1x1 ribbing at each end of the span of the collar lining, but that's ok. It's just the lining. And you HAVE TO expand that width so that when you stitch it down it will lay right.

Now, work the weird rib for another inch, fully letting it 'sink in'.

At about 4", work the 2nd increase row as follows:

Second increase row: worked in some more M1's inbetween the P1 K1 pairs that were still normal within those first original 20 stitches.

Then the following next row after the second inc row, my collar lining 'language' looked something like this:
K1 P1, (K2 P2) x 9....1x1 rib across til the last 38 st, then finish with (P2 K2) x 9, P1 K1.

Then just follow that strange combination of ribbing til the collar is 5" or so. BIND OFF LOOSELY, leaving a nice long tail for whip stitching.

Fold collar lining to the inside and whip stitch into place!

ArtLady1981
01-31-2009, 12:17 AM
GinnyG! "Backstitch" just means 'in-and-out'. You can't mattress seam the ends together cuz you need to overlap the BO end on top. So, just use that 15" tail and work it in and out through both layers as neatly as possible. (NOTE: for the LEFT CUFF, the CO edge is on top)

My first cuff (the RIGHT SLEEVE CUFF) is 1/4 done.
Will take a photo of the overlap thing when I get there!

Shees, I had to write out the notes for the cuffs to be sure I "get it".
It is easy to work, but a bit tricky to understand first.

But I do know that the RIGHT SIDE of the cuff is going to the the K4 P2 K3 P5 side...and the K4 edge is your 'pickup 39' edge and the P5 edge is closest to your hand.

A NOTE: notice how the sleeve says to "SLIP 1, work seed pattern to the end of the row" under ALL SIZES on page 1? And again on the dec rows, there is a SLIP 1 feature at the beginning of the rows.

I am eliminating the SLIP 1 from all my sleeve cap rows because I am NOT working the "inside out seam". The designer included the SLIP 1 feature as a part of a design element for the INSIDE OUT seam. I'm mattress seaming my coat, therefore, all my sleeve cap edges will be the regular 'EDGE STITCHES' which, as you know, are KNITS on the RS & WS. An 'edge stitch' creates a nice little garter bump and you can really mattress seam quickly and neatly with this little edge stitch as your guide!

A PERSONAL NOTE: I am shortening my sleeve by 7"!!! :eyes:
I added up the 2 sleeve measurements given for the sleeve as seen on the schematics...the sleeve length for the XL is 21" plus the sleeve cap is 12.75" which equals 36.75" for the raglan sleeve! HOLY COW! :doh:

From base of my neck, across my shoulder, down over my shoulder, down my arm to an inch past my wristbone is just 27"! So I will offload this 7" before the sleeve cap shaping...cuz the sleeve cap HAS TO fit into the armhole sockets of the FRONTS AND BACK. This also changes how 'often' I work my increases up to the sleeve cap shaping. Losing that many inches will mean that my full sleeve width has to be accomplished sooner. Otherwise, I'll 'run out of road'!

My "road" ends at milepost 14 (inches)! (SYLVI pattern says to begin sleeve cap shaping at 21" for the XL) :pout: I don't think so!

And ya know, IF my sleeve #1 is a bit too short, I'd rather frog the sleeve cap back and add an inch or two before knitting sleeve #2.

We cannot 'roll up' the cuffs for this sleeve if they are too long, can we! They have to be a perfect length. I hate ill-fitting sleeves. I've been down that road too many times. :pout:

I suggest you do the same: measure yourself from the base of the side of your neck, down over your shoulder and arm to just past the wristbone. Then, add up the 2 schematic sleeve 'length' measurements. See how far down your completed sleeve will fit YOU if knit strictly according to the pattern's measurements.

I've read about overly LONNNNNNNNG SLEEVES at Rav. Forewarned is forearmed! Us shorties already know about sleeves vs length! Best to check.

I will knit just one sleeve and do a mock try on of it, holding it to my body where it would lie when the coat is seamed up.
Looking at all the great photos of SYLVI, it isn't hard to know where to hold the sleeve!

ArtLady1981
01-31-2009, 05:53 PM
Well, your fearless leader has flopped! :aww:

I made the cuff fine and dandy. But, I did not like how that 'overlap' looked AT ALL. It doesn't lay right because of the way the P5 rolls up for both layers. I mean, the underside rolls up, and the 'tab' rolls up. I tried every which way to sew that cuff with the overlap...and not one produced a finished look that I liked.

So I tried another approach. I mattress seamed the K4-P2-K3 stitches FACE UP...and turned the cuff inside out and seamed teh P5 stitches WRONG SIDE up...meaning the Knit Stitches facing.

It is the same principle as when you are seaming a hat...you seam the hat with RIGHT SIDES facing, and the brim is seamed WRONG SIDE facing, so that when the brim is turned up, the finished seamline is facing out.

Anyway, I thought I'd give it a try, and I like it! I cinched the stitches up as tightly as possible so that the seamline doesn't look wider than the cuff itself.

Here it is:
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3418/3242441322_eaf140699b.jpg?v=0

Here is the inside view:
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3412/3242441966_51263403d5.jpg?v=0

Here is the top view of the other cuff:
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3130/3241609761_6430ca1188.jpg?v=0

BTW: I picked up the 39 stitches with ease, however, I couldn't work them on a single 16" needle. So I am working my sleeve with 2 circs. The CAT BORDHI way! If you are at a loss about working on 2 circs 'in the round' please take time to watch these 2 video clips!

You will never forget again! Last night, I remembered how to do it without watching the videos again! :happydance: I usually ALWAYS have to refresh my mind when using seldom-used technques! Again and again and again! :wall:

PART 1
RybPvCNfrT8

PART 2
wSv6bdj7pvg

ArtLady1981
02-01-2009, 01:00 PM
PROGRESS REPORT: I'm well into shaping sleeve cap, working flat with a RS & WS, working the decreases at each end til ultimately 10 st remain. I'm not working the decreases quite like the pattern says K2T & SSK's. I'm knitting or purling the 2 together based on what the seed pattern dictates at each end. This is masking/hiding the decreases. I'm working the 'edge stitch' first...then the next two stitches are worked together (1 dec) according the seed pattern. At the end of the row, I work 2 together, then the edge stitch.

Oh, and another thing about my sleeve: because of my short row gauge...(16 rows are supposed to be 4"...my row gauge is 3")...
I am stretching out the decrease rows in the cap. Instead of dec 1 each end every 4th row 8 times more...I'm decreasing every 6th row 7 times more; then the next foll 4th row; then EOR 7 times.
The purpose: so that my sleeve cap will reach the required length of 12.75" by the time it's down to 10 st left. I'll have to apply the same rule of decreasing to the FRONT and BACK raglan edges, too. It won't matter for the FRONTS, but adding those 12 extra rows will impact the design work for the BACK cuz the rows aren't plain seed, they are charted rows!

I read over at Rav that some knitters just worked some rows TWO extra times. Like, for example, they worked maybe a chart row 143 as a 'working' row, then row 144 is a 'resting' row (knit the knits, purl the purls as they present themselves)...but then instead of immediately going on the row 145, they did two additional resting rows. Like, to call them a name, they'd be rows 144b & 144c. This just elongated what they had done for Row 143. Anyways, the folks that did this trick were have ROW GAUGE issues, too. Pretty cool 'fix'! I will have to do this as well. No problem.

Photo of my sleeve before 'BIND OFF 7 ST' for the shape sleeve cap:
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3340/3243881455_5b02e4a946.jpg?v=0

Photo of the increases on each side of stitch marker (above red line):
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3300/3243883477_b68efde3e9.jpg?v=0
I didn't work the increase like the pattern said M1L & M1R.
Forget it. I didn't like how it disrupted the seed pattern.
Here's what I did to each inc 1 st stitch on either side of the stitch marker: I made each stitch (on each side of the stitch marker) into two stitches by using the kfb or pfb increase. Then, when I came back around for the next round, I just purled or knit the 4 st on each side of the marker according the seed sequencing. You can tell that something is going on in the increase area, but it isn't too disruptive to the field of seed. Besides, it will be in the underarm area anyways.

Here is a photo of what I'm intending to do to my cuffs:
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3510/3243881965_b52405c96b.jpg?v=0
I just laid them down on the cuff seamline, but will sew them on later.

Photo of the Papa Button and the Mama Button.
Mama Buttons for cuffs. Papa Buttons for FRONT closures.
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3469/3244711114_e001ff5428.jpg?v=0

I used the Papa Buttons on my 3/4 coat GROVE. Will order more.
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3032/2585655884_125a30544c.jpg?v=0

They hold the coat shut without coming undone.
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3009/2585655472_da418b7951.jpg
This yarn is Malabrigo Merino, but almost same color as SYLVI will be.
I guess you could say I love winter white! This coat is hooded, so my SYLVI definitely doesn't need to be hooded, too.

Wanda Witch
02-01-2009, 01:50 PM
A question, ArtLady: Since I also plan to mattress stitch the cuffs together to avoid the bulk otherwise, should the cuff only measure 13" in length instead of the 14" the pattern states? Will making them 14", as I have (but have not b/o) make the 39 stitches to be picked up off? Thanks for any suggestions. Love the button idea of yours also on the cuff.

ArtLady1981
02-01-2009, 01:56 PM
You are right! :thumbsup: I just finished updating my SYLVI notes on Rav...and remembered to state that I did frog my cuff back to 13" when I decided to mattress seam. Although, the mattress seaming gobbles up a bit of the cuffs. But I still left it at 13". A slightly smaller cuff circumference is nice.

Also, I mattress seamed the K4 P2 K3 stitches with the RS facing, then flipped it over and mattress seamed the P5's (they look like K5's on the WS). When the P5's roll up, you don't want the mattress edges to be public.

PS: It won't impact your PU 39 st at all! Cuz there are lots of extra stitches. You will find you need to PU 2 side by side, then skip 1, then PU 2 side by side, then skip 1, etc. Be sure to count how many stitches are available to you along the PU row, and mark sections of 4 and PU an even amount in each sector.

ArtLady1981
02-02-2009, 03:02 AM
Well, I was driving the 60 miles to an ART SHOW FUNDRAISER this sunny Sunday morning...not much traffic...plenty of time to think...ABOUT SYLVI.
I had not quite completed the sleeve cap for Sleeve #1 last night. I'm still feeling uneasy. Something is just not feeling right.

Hmmmmmmmmm :think: I'm making that sleeve cap taller by 13 rows to accommodate the shorter row gauge of my yarn. I was set up to add 13 extra rows to my sleeve cap so that the cap would measure up to 12.75".

[FYI: PATTERN ROW GAUGE is 4 rows=1". My yarn is 5 rows=1".] So, I have to knit an extra row to get 1". That means I have to knit 64 rows to get 12.75", whereas SYLVI gauge would have to knit 51 rows to get 12.75".

Then, I have to consider trying to add 13 additional rows to the raglan area of BOTH FRONTS and the BACK as well. I mean let's face it, the sleeve caps gotta fit into the armhole areas for the FRONTS and the BACK, right?

As I'm driving along, I'm trying to think of another way to approach this sleeve dilemma! I was doing the math in my head: how much shorter will my sleeve cap be if I just simply work the sleeve cap as per pattern, row gauge be darned. I came up with 10" instead of 13". Then I thought to myself...11" is the sleeve cap length of Size M! I could wear a Size Med at one time. My frame is a size small-med. I couldn't wait to get home and tinker around with that sleeve.

Soooo, I frogged ALL of the sleeve cap...and picked up the stitches just after frogging the BIND OFF 7. I knit my sleeve for another 3" and THEN did the BIND OFF 7 row.

Why did I knit the sleeve itself for another 3", now a total length of 17" not 14"? Cuz I know that my sleeve has to measure 27" from side of the neck down to the wristbone. If I'm taking away 3" from the sleeve cap, I have to make it up in the arm of the sleeve.

Got it?

Now I have relieved myself of having to modify the sleeve cap length of the FRONTS and the BACK.

But let me tell you, I will be trying on this one sleeve before making sleeve #2. I could be all wet about that 10-11" sleeve cap length being ok on my body. If it isn't, then I will tinker with adding an extra inch in those "even" rows right after the BIND OFF 7 row. There are "knit the next 4 rows even" right after the BIND OFF 7 row...and this would be an excellent place to add an inch, a plain inch. I looked at the same area for the FRONTS, and there is a place after the BINDOFFS that could handle 5 extra dummy rows.

Adding the 5 extra dummy rows to the BACK within about the chart rows 104-ish would be trickier. That's why I hope I won't have to add any extra rows to the sleeve cap.

I am sharing all of my sleeve issues with you cuz sometimes we can learn more from someone's trials-and-errors than from their successes. Not many share the pain, just the success. I like to hear the dirt! :teehee: So I figured you might, too!

If anything I'm experiencing with this darn sleeve and with the issue of row gauge will help you avoid trouble, or if it will help you get out of trouble, my time was well spent in typing this out!

Like I said earlier, numerous SYLVI Rav knitters are experiencing row gauge issues! This is because so many of us are substituting yarn! The signatue yarn for the proejct is Briggs & Little Atlantic. It prolly gets perfect row gauge. But my choice was to use STASH YARN, so I brought this on myself. I will deal with it. I think I have my issues under control now. :think:

Puullllease check the row gauge of your swatch, too!

ArtLady1981
02-02-2009, 02:16 PM
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3398/3248231624_4d43194a58.jpg?v=0 http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3314/3248231316_76ac0e4223.jpg?v=0

This is sleeve #1. It sure does need some blocking!
Please pardon the wonkiness! The red yarns are 10
row markers. I couldn't live without them. I'll remove
them after Sleeve #2 is finished. I use them as reference.

I did the BIND OFF 7for the sleeve cap when the sleeve was 17".
The sleeve cap itself, from BIND OFF 7 to top is 10".

As it turned out: I did add 2 dummy 'even' rows just after
the BIND OFF 7. So instead of knitting 5 'even' rows, I knit 7.

Other than the 2 extra 'even rows', I knit the sleeve cap as per pattern, it turned out to be 10" just like I calculated. The sleeve is 27" from stem to stern, and it's not too short by any means. Borderline too long. Jury's out. But when I slipped my arm into it and held the 10 st on waste yarn to the side of my neck, that darn cuff was mid-hand, but not down to my knuckles. So, OKAY already! :teehee:

I CANNOT IMAGINE what this sleeve would have looked like if I had knit it as per pattern. It would have been (according to the schematic's numbers)
34" in length. THIRTY FOUR inches! :eyes:

I cast on for Sleeve #2 last night. It is going faster this
go around cuz I have my 2 circ mantra rollin'!

BTW: A warning: when I picked up the stitches for sleeve #1...my RS was facing me, but it was facing me from the inside. In other words, I work with my RS on the inside, not facing me on the outside. This resulted in one little glitch:
What was supposed to be my RIGHT SLEEVE is now my LEFT SLEEVE if the cuff seam & buttons are to lie by my wristbone.

I couldn't, for the life of me, figure out what-in-the-heck I had done wrong. So, when I picked up stitches for sleeve #2 last night, it dawned on me! I did a test. I started out picking up the 39 st with the RS facing me on the outside...and my 2 circs didn't knit like sleeve #1. So I ripped out the PU 39 and re-picked them with the RS of the cuff facingme on the inside. Voila. My 2 circs knit the same way.

So, I will continue along, and if all is well, I will end up with a
LEFT SLEEVE and a RIGHT SLEEVE! :DOH:

NOTE: the PU 39 commences at the cuff seamline, however, for sleeve #1 you knit 9 seeds before placing the marker; and on sleeve #2, you knit 15 seeds before placing the marker. The stitch marker 'marks' the center of the underarm and from it you work your increases, and you work that BIND OFF 7. This difference of 9 seeds and 15 seeds is what pivots the sleeves into becoming a left or right sleeve.

Anyhoo, I figure I did something wrong with sleeve #1 so I figure I better repeat the same mistake on sleeve #2. That way I'll end up with a LEFT & RIGHT SLEEVE!

My error: having the cuff inside out when picking up the 39 and commencing with row 1.

Be sure to have your cuff right side out facing you when you pick up and knit. I believe you will have a RIGHT SLEEVE for sleeve #1!

ArtLady1981
02-02-2009, 03:39 PM
YEAH! The Ravelry SYLVI Volunteer Editor (juliafc) has posted modifiations for a 48" busty body type on her TWIST COLLECTIVE BLOG!

She (juliafc) is 1/4 of the production team for Twist Collective, an on-line magazine of knitting and independent design.

Making a Larger SYLVI (http://www.twistcollective.com/collection/index.php/blog).

Let's give her a big ole GROUP HUG! :grphug:

Karina
02-02-2009, 03:57 PM
Artlady - you are just plowing ahead. Your sleeve looks great. I am just in the process of seaming a cardigan and then just have to do the collar and button bands. When that is finished my attention will turn to Sylvi.

ArtLady1981
02-02-2009, 04:02 PM
We'll still be here for ya, Karina! I admire you for making yourself finish up the WIP. Then you can begin SYLVI with a fresh slate!

I only have a stashghan WIP, but it can wait til March. No rush on that. Seamless Stashghans can be picked up and put down AT WILL! :teehee:

slugmom
02-02-2009, 07:50 PM
I went to Kinko's at lunch and had the graphs enlarged to 11 x 17, they will be MUCH easier to wrok with (at least for my old eyes). Unfortunately without thinking ahead I had them laminate the charts.......... I was going to color code them and forgot all about it.

Ideally I should have taken the enlargements home, color coded and taken them back to laminate. I am going to see how difficult they are "as is", I might end up redoing them.

I was going to suggest what someone else said, to color-code on the laminate with Sharpies or other permanent markers. Sharpies come in so many lovely colors :)

I'm halfway through my 4th gauge swatch :hmmm: and it looks like I'll get the stitch gauge with 11's. My knitting isn't *tight* so I'm not sure why I'm more off with my Cascade 109 than others. Makes me wonder whether I knit wrong.

Anyway, we're two days into February now and I'm feeling very behind. I'll have to keep repeating: You have a little baby and were insane to start LOL - but I REALLY want to knit this coat, so I'll have to make a point to knit at least a little every day. I may end up the last one done, but at least I'll eventually finish, right?

ArtLady1981
02-02-2009, 07:59 PM
I was going to suggest what someone else said, to color-code on the laminate with Sharpies or other permanent markers. Sharpies come in so many lovely colors :)

I'm halfway through my 4th gauge swatch :hmmm: and it looks like I'll get the stitch gauge with 11's. My knitting isn't *tight* so I'm not sure why I'm more off with my Cascade 109 than others. Makes me wonder whether I knit wrong.

Anyway, we're two days into February now and I'm feeling very behind. I'll have to keep repeating: You have a little baby and were insane to start LOL - but I REALLY want to knit this coat, so I'll have to make a point to knit at least a little every day. I may end up the last one done, but at least I'll eventually finish, right?

Pleeeeese don't feel behind! And surely, don't feel bad if you're behind me! I feel the need to be ahead of our little knitalong in order to 'break trail' for y'all!

Just as long as it takes...keep knitting a stitch at a time, and your SYLVI will get done! Don't be discouraged and put it down! This knitalong doesn't have an expiration date! We're here for you forever!

Kithic
02-02-2009, 08:04 PM
I was busy working on a couple socks I have OTN for a few other KAL's over the weekend so I didn't get a chance to work on my sleeve. I did the overlap on the cuff, and I'm not crazy about the way it looks but I'm going with it since it will be tacked down with buttons. I had to rip the PU 39 on the cuff a few times until I figured out which direction I was supposed to go. Here is what I have so far if I can get the pic to post:
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3458/3243414767_be06281736.jpg?v=0
I've just started the increases. Definitely needs blocking!

slugmom
02-02-2009, 08:07 PM
Here's another question ... I don't think I'm experienced enough to make a bunch of modifications. This whole row gauge thing is worrying me. I guess I better finish my swatch so I know what I'm dealing with, but I see so many posts about people needing to make changes ... :shock: I'm worried I won't be able to figure out what I need to do.

ArtLady1981
02-02-2009, 08:08 PM
OMG! The red is soooo gorgeous! Way to go girl! :thumbsup:

Later, when you have time for it...please post a closeup photo of your cuffs as they are. Even with the buttons. That is a subject that everyone is wanting more information and photos about. Those darn cuffs!

At any rate, your work is impeccable.

The seed st is so nice and even! :happydance:

slugmom
02-02-2009, 08:10 PM
Pleeeeese don't feel behind! And surely, don't feel bad if you're behind me! I feel the need to be ahead of our little knitalong in order to 'break trail' for y'all!

Just as long as it takes...keep knitting a stitch at a time, and your SYLVI will get done! Don't be discouraged and put it down! This knitalong doesn't have an expiration date! We're here for you forever!

Thank you. You're very encouraging! I appreciate it!

This is my first KAL so I guess I thought the "AL" part meant we should all be keeping together, LOL ... :)

I *am* glad you're breaking the trail, I like the alternate cuffs you've posted better than the idea of the original.

Hey, if I do both cuffs at once is there any reason I couldn't knit both sleeves at once on two circs? I've done that before for mittens. That way I could make sure they were both the same length, etc ... and I'd be assured I wouldn't end up with a one-armed coat, LOL.

ArtLady1981
02-02-2009, 08:15 PM
...Hey, if I do both cuffs at once is there any reason I couldn't knit both sleeves at once on two circs? I've done that before for mittens. That way I could make sure they were both the same length, etc ... and I'd be assured I wouldn't end up with a one-armed coat, LOL.


I'd say no, cuz you have to use 2 circs to knit one sleeve by itself! And, it would also be hard to do two sleeves at once even when you pass the BIND OFF 7 and begin the shape cap regions, cuz the first half of the sleeve cap doesn't like "FLAT" at all. It curves in a "U" shape because it wants to be in the round like it was within the sleeve. You've cut it's umbilical cord with the BIND OFF 7...but it still lingers to be part of the sleeve! :teehee:

To assure that they are the same length, just make notes about when you did what ,and on what round, or, on what row. Did you notice how I install red yarn markers that mark off every 10th round or row? This eliminates endless counting and counting and recounting rounds or rows. When you finish Sleeve #1, don't remove the row markers. (Use whatever contrasting thread or yarn you have around). Leave them be until you are done with Sleeve #2. With your NOTES and your rounds/row markers, your two sleeves will be identical!

For example, in my NOTES:
I picked up the 39 st aound the cuff, joined, and seeded for 29 rounds to equal *8". Then I began my increase rows. They were all completed by Round 54 and my sleeve is now 49st around.
(*8" for my SYLVI cuz I am shortening the sleeves drastically)

Etc.

I make a note of EVERY MILESTONE as the sleeve progresses. I have a notebook with a SLEEVE NOTES page just for SYLVI. Every part of SYLVI has a page of notes just for it by itself! No one gets left out! Otherwise, they'll take me on Dr. Phil and complain I treated them unfairly and with favoritism! :roflhard:

Kithic
02-02-2009, 08:31 PM
Aww, thank you! You are too sweet!
I will have to try to get a pic tomorrow in the sunlight since the seam isn't showing.

ArtLady1981
02-02-2009, 08:36 PM
Here's another question ... I don't think I'm experienced enough to make a bunch of modifications. This whole row gauge thing is worrying me. I guess I better finish my swatch so I know what I'm dealing with, but I see so many posts about people needing to make changes ... :shock: I'm worried I won't be able to figure out what I need to do.

Hi there, slugmom!

Just knit your gauge swatch to get the correct STITCH GAUGE...and then message me, or post here, about the results of the row gauge that is accompanying your stitch gauge. Sometimes we don't have the luxury of perfect stitch gauge AND row gauge!

Your stitch gauge is MOST IMPORTANT, and we'll be able to help you with row gauge if it's off a bit. At the most, you will have coat that is either a bit shorter or a bit longer than the schematics say. That's ok!

I am a runt. Only 5' tall. So, I am very familiar with modifying sleeves to fit my arms. Most ladies don't have to worry a bit!

What size SYLVI are you making?

Please measure your arms for me, starting at the base of your sideneck, down over your shoulders to your wristbone. Give me that measurement, too. If you need to shorten your sleeves, I know exactly where you can easily eliminate some rows from the sleeves.

I'm here to help you have a well-fitting SYLVI at the least amount of trouble and time! Together we'll get 'er done! :thumbsup:

ArtLady1981
02-02-2009, 08:52 PM
HEY THERE EVERYONE! :waving:

Am I driving you NUTS with my SLEEVES notes and posts??
I hope not. I am knitting Sleeve #2, and I am changing it again from what I did for Sleeve #1.

Sleeve #1 is just too long, and I detest lonnng sleeves on me.
Mid-hand is fine, but another try-on showed Sleeve#1 hits me
2" too long for my taste. Past mid-hand.

For Sleeve#2, I am shortening it by 2" before I begin the INCREASES.
That's all. No other changes.

Sleeve #1 is still intact. But, if Sleeve#2 is THE ONE, then I will re-knit Sleeve#1!

Sleeve length is my nemesis. Don't be misled by reading my insane notes for the SLEEVES. The sleeves for most folks are just the easiest part!

Most knitters can knit a sleeve AS PER EXACT PATTERN and their sleeves always fit fine! Not so with a shrimp like me.

For me, the SLEEVES are the hardest. The rest of the coat should sail along! Just knit it already, Dollyce! :eyes:

Marria
02-02-2009, 09:52 PM
Even though I'm not making Sylvi, I've been reading this thread because I think Artlady has some great tips for knitting in general. Thank you Artlady! I love the idea of inserting the threads for the row markers. I like to torture myself by counting rows, but I think I'm going to have to snag your idea. Did you just insert them with a yarn needle?

gargoylelib
02-03-2009, 04:33 AM
Thanks ArtLady for posting about the larger size mods. I printed out a copy of the info to put in my pattern notebook! I can't start Sylvi yet as I'm trying to get some other projects out of the way but I definitely plan to make one at some point haha... And thanks for posting all of your experiences with the sleeves and such. I expect to be having to make my sleeves a bit shorter as well so it helps reading how you have done it!

Ok, now back to knitting so I can finish up and get Sylvi started! :)

Libbie

ArtLady1981
02-03-2009, 05:16 AM
Even though I'm not making Sylvi, I've been reading this thread because I think Artlady has some great tips for knitting in general. Thank you Artlady! I love the idea of inserting the threads for the row markers. I like to torture myself by counting rows, but I think I'm going to have to snag your idea. Did you just insert them with a yarn needle?

Yes, I just keep a yarn needle at the ready. If I'm using a colored thread, I use an crosstitch needle with a round tip.

And, you are most welcome! Glad I've been of help! :thumbsup:

ArtLady1981
02-03-2009, 05:23 AM
My second sleeve is perrrrrrfection.

It is overall 25", and the cuff falls about 1.5" below my wristbone.

In knitting sleeve #2, I like my increases better. And I did a different style of decreasing at each end of the sleeve cap rows.

Overall, a much better looking sleeve.

I am gonna frog sleeve #1 tonight. Just back to a row below the increases. I'll leave 8" including cuff, and work up from there.

If the frogged yarn looks too ill (soft yarns get kinda tired looking from knitting, frogging, knitting, frogging)...then I'll use the frogged yarn for another JENNY CLOCHE. I have enough extra yarn to redo this sleeve from the 8" length back up to the top.

Part of the game. :eyes:

One of the modifications I made to this sleeve is that I knit til the entire sleeve incl cuff was 10" (not 8") before starting the increases. Then, by the time I reached the end of round 65, it was two rows from the BIND OFF 7 and begin sleeve cap. This pushed the increase rounds up to the top of the armpit. Much better.

Well, I'm off to Ravelry and see what's up over there in the Sylvi Group!

BTW: someone started a sleeve thread, complaining about that darn cuff overlap! I posted a photo of my cuff and explained why I gave up on the overlap thing.

laikabear
02-03-2009, 05:44 AM
Wow, thanks for all the info Artlady! I went away to finish up my Swallowtail and look at all the activity here! :)

Using Cascade 109, I got gauge with size 11 needles. My row gauge is 21 sts to 4". I was hoping at the correct gauge the fabric would be a bit stiffer/ thicker than it is. What I have now is more appropriate for a sweater... I guess I'll just roll with it.

I took my sleeve measurement. I'm 5'10" and from my side neck over the shoulder and just past the wristbone is 29" for me. I usually have to lengthen sleeves; all my store bought clothes have too-short sleeves. :)

laikabear
02-03-2009, 06:22 AM
I just printed out the pattern for the first time. OHHHH MY GOSH I am glad I have you guys at KH to help!

Did anyone see the post on Ravelry asking about the increases not lining up on the sleeve? It's post #42.http://www.ravelry.com/discuss/sylvi-kal/454206/26-50#43 I think this is what Artlady was mentioning a few posts ago. I assumed the Raveler (night knitting) had messed up, but is that how it's supposed to look? I'm surprised no one had commented on that!

ArtLady1981
02-03-2009, 06:34 AM
Wow, thanks for all the info Artlady! I went away to finish up my Swallowtail and look at all the activity here! :)

Using Cascade 109, I got gauge with size 11 needles. My row gauge is 21 sts to 4". I was hoping at the correct gauge the fabric would be a bit stiffer/ thicker than it is. What I have now is more appropriate for a sweater... I guess I'll just roll with it.

I took my sleeve measurement. I'm 5'10" and from my side neck over the shoulder and just past the wristbone is 29" for me. I usually have to lengthen sleeves; all my store bought clothes have too-short sleeves. :)

Your row gauge will impact how tall your sleeve cap is by the time all the decreases are accomplished and just 10 st remain.

There are about 52 sleeve cap rows for my size, and using that number of rows and your row gauge to explain it: a sleeve cap with 52 rows would measure 13" by the time you reach 10st remaining. But, with your row gauge, the 52 rows will only be 10". (This is figured by dividing your number of sleeve cap rows by your row gauge per inch, which is 5.25 rows are 1". (21rows = 4" is the same as 5.25rows = 1")

So, with that shortfall, factor in some additional sleeve length just above the cuff but before you begin the increases.

This area 'above the cuff but before the increases' is also a good place to shorten a sleeve by knocking out inches.

Can you believe it? My 'keeper' sleeve is 9" shorter than the pattern suggested! Goooood Heavens! :doh:

rachejm
02-03-2009, 08:00 AM
I'm lurking too! If I had the time/money/patience to do this coat then I would, it looks amazing and I'm sure you guys will all have gorgeous finished products. Figured I'd read along and pick up the tips if I ever do manage to find the time/money/patience!

evona
02-03-2009, 01:45 PM
Thanks for all the tips Artlady!

Slugmom - don't feel behind. I just started school again - after 10 years - and I work full time, plus I have a 17 year old at home and my DD called me on Thursday night to come pick her up from her now ex BFs house so I've had to deal with all that chaos (boy does my living room look like a storage facility - how did she collect so much more stuff in 5 months?) Anyway, the point being I have NOT had time to work much on Sylvi yet so I am only about half way through the first cuff. Needless to say I will be a slowpoke in this KAL too. It'll benefit us though cus we get to see all the tips from the faster knitters :wink:

AnnaElch
02-03-2009, 02:32 PM
Hi everybody,

I found this place through the Sylvi group on ravelry. I am Anna from Germany and relatively new to knitting stuff I can actually wear. I fell in love with Sylvi but am a little bit afraid to tackle this alone. I hope it's not too late to join here.

So far I have bought the pattern, enlarged the charts, and made a few swatches.

I am trying Rowan Cocoon for this because it was the only yarn in my LYS that came close to the requirements. I have made two swatches, one with a 7mm needle, and one with an 8mm needle. With the 7mm I get 13sts and 22 rows in 4". With the 8mm I get 12sts and 21 rows. I like the fabric much more with the 7mm.

So my questions this far would be: Is it at all possible to use this yarn for this project? Would the necessary modifications be very hard to figure out for a person with not so much experience? With which part should I start? And at last, what size should I make? (my bust measures about 44").

I hope it is ok to start off here with this load of questions, sorry.:oo:

evona
02-03-2009, 03:10 PM
Hi Anna! Of course you're welcome to join. I looked up the gauge for Rowan Cocoon and it looks like 4 st = 1". The gauge for Sylvi is 3 st = 1" on 10s (US). I would do test swatches on different sized needles and see what you come up with. :)

ArtLady1981
02-03-2009, 03:53 PM
Hi Maureen~ I looked real hard at her sleeve (night knitting) and she just made some boo-boos. I opened her personal SYLVI notebook and read her notes. She finally frogged a bit and re-knit, and her sleeve turned out fine from what I can see. She doesn't comment on it anymore, that I can find. I'd love to know what she did wrong in the first place, but then...on second thought...maybe I DONT' wanna know! :roflhard: It has been very helpful reading all the discussions in the SYLVI group, don't you agree?

Hi AnnaElch~ I love Rowan Cocoon! In December I made an emerald green Cocoon cardigan using Cocoon! It is delicious yarn! It's never too late to join us! If your bust measurement is 44", you'd definitely want to make the size XL which is a measurement of 47". That would give you the minimum amount of ease.

Can you post photos of your two swatches? You mentioned that you got the recommended stitch gauge using the 8mm needle, but that you like the look of the 7mm best. (Of course, you knit your swatches in seed stitch!)

Off the top, I'd recommend using the needle that comes closest to the correct stitch gauge (the 8mm/US11) This coat is already only 3" larger than your actual body measurement, and if you use the 7mm needle your coat will not be 47" around. It would be about 4" less.

Here's how I calculated: the BACK and two FRONTS (size XL) are 168 stitches for each FRONT and 282 st for the BACK. How do I know? The schematic gives the measurements at the widest part, just before the raglan decreases...so to discover how many stitches it is, multiply the inches in width times 12 st per inch (cuz "12" is the pattern stitch gauge given).

Long story short, the regulation XL SYVLI would measure 51.5" around before seaming and such...your SYLVI using the 7mm needle would be 47.5" before seaming. But what you have to compare is that it is a 4" difference! That means that a 51.5" unseamed SYLVI comes out to be a 47" wearable SYLVI. Your wearable SYLVI would be 43" around. If your bust is 44", that means that the XL would fit you like a t-shirt. Too tight for a coat.

Remedies & Decisions: use the 8mm needle and get correct gauge in the first place. If the 8mm seed stitch swatch is not satisfactory in appearance to your liking, then you have to abandon Cocoon as your yarn and move on. Find another yarn online. OR, make a bigger size and use Cocoon with the 7mm needle. Twist Collective Blog has posted modifications for larger sizes. See the link in my post #73.

There are 'yarn substitutions' discussions in the SYLVI group over at Ravelry. One such yarn is the CASCADE 109 (http://www.yarn.com/index.cfm/fuseaction/product.detail/categoryID/34A570BB-00D8-4FB6-8082-B2FB862781D3/productID/CA5E324E-8F75-4311-9ADC-E42E4393AF3E/). WEBS (at the link I provided) is offering CASCADE 109 for almost half price! Still lots of solid colors to choose from! Oy!

Another good wool yarn is Lamb's Pride Bulky!

These two yarns are very popular as a substitute for the Briggs&Little "Atlantic" yarn used by the designer.

The SYLVI group has leads on where to get the Briggs&Little Atlantic. Briggs&Little Atlantic IN STOCK (http://www.ravelry.com/discuss/sylvi-kal/499082/1-25). She is the owner of Robyn's Nest (http://robynsnest.ca/xcart/home.php) and she is carrying Briggs&Little Atlantic! She is also part of our Ravelry SYLVI group.

Anyhoo, I hope I've helped you make important decisions. The right yarn and the correct gauge make all the difference in having a well-fitting coat.
You are a conscientious knitter and I admire that about you!

And don't be discouraged. We all went through this, too!
The yarn, the gauge, the swatch! Oy! :eyes:

Let us know what you decide to do! We're here for you! :hug:

AnnaElch
02-03-2009, 04:12 PM
Wow, thanks for that quick response.
I have looked at the other yarn options, but as I live in Germany they are equally hard to get, so I thought I would check what is available locally first, but if that does not work out I can still try to order the original yarn.

Anyway here are the swatch pictures:

http://img24.imageshack.us/img24/1909/image00001wu2.jpg (http://img24.imageshack.us/my.php?image=image00001wu2.jpg)

http://img24.imageshack.us/img24/1714/image00002gk1.jpg (http://img24.imageshack.us/my.php?image=image00002gk1.jpg)

ArtLady1981
02-03-2009, 04:22 PM
PHOTOS! PHOTOS!

Here is Sleeve#2, a keeper!
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3308/3250970563_a1da8b608d.jpg?v=0

Closeup of increases and BIND OFF 7 row which begins the sleeve cap:
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3341/3250971487_03ca9a6e93.jpg?v=0

Sleeve cap, outer arm:
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3089/3251799194_f731d217d3.jpg?v=0

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3260/3251799980_a1d9177b05.jpg?v=0

This was Sleeve#1, showing the icky increases:
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3314/3248231316_76ac0e4223_b.jpg
Sleeve#1 is now a big huge ball of frogged yarn, except
for the cuff and 4 rounds of seed stitch. I'm able to use
the frogged yarn for "the 2nd attempt Sleeve#1".
The yarn still looks fresh enough. Phew.

ArtLady1981
02-03-2009, 05:15 PM
Anna~

I totally love :heart: your 8mm swatch! I think you have a WINNER! Maybe the 7mm swatch feels cushier and thicker...but analyzing the two swatches based on appearance, I think both swatches are GREAT! However, the 8mm swatch will give you a coat that you can wear! I'd say GO FOR IT!

And, btw, I'm just green with envy that you get to use COCOON!
I so totally love :heart: COCOON yarn!

I made this COCOON cardigan (Babette) this December:
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3257/3175030398_509a17fef5.jpg
So I know how great Cocoon is and how good it feels to knit with.

It is a dream, and it is my favorite yarn, even over Malabrigo.

My LYS shop owner told me she's getting in new colors soon.
Sigh.

Kithic
02-03-2009, 06:30 PM
Artlady, that cardigan is gorgeous!

Here is the picture of my overlapped cuff:
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3111/3251784316_7df84db068.jpg?v=0
I think I am going to tack the loose bottom edge to the rolled hem so it rolls up as well and then I will place a button on each side ribbed section.

ArtLady1981
02-03-2009, 06:37 PM
It looks really great, Kithic! :heart::heart::heart: Way to go! :thumbsup:
BTW: I posted a photo of your cuff in the SYLVI group! It is an excellent example of a successful overlapping cuff! I gave you credit for the cuff, of course. Hope you don't mind me bragging about you! :teehee:

Maybe I should tried harder! Yours look FAB!

And, thank you thank you, for posting a photo of an overlapping cuff!
This is the FIRST real closeup of it! I wish I'd had a photo when I was tinkering with my cuff!

I wish the designer had given more attention to the cuff directions, and included a real photo. She included enough photos of the BACK to last me a lifetime! I needed more photo ops of the cuffs, and increases within the sleeve... so I'd know how they were supposed to appear! This kind of decreasing on seed stitch in-the-round on each side of a stitch marker isn't exactly what I do every day! Those M1R and M1L increases. :?? I tried them, and scrapped them. They were entirely too visible and a disturbance within the field of seed stitch. At least IMHO. A better knitter might have figured it out! :think:

I finally worked an increase exactly on each stitch on the side of the stitch marker. I didn't increase 1, slip marker, knit one, increase 1.
I increased 1, slipped marker, increased 1. No spaces. Two increases worked back to back on each side of the stitch marker.
Nothin' fancy. No trying to purl1f&b. Just plain k1f&b for each no matter what the stitches were on each side of the marker.

I did the plain ole kfb, or as it's also called > the k1f&b:
ILcTB5hc0XM

I like the results:
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3425/3251913930_b25344dc26.jpg

ArtLady1981
02-03-2009, 06:44 PM
Anna~

I knit a Cocoon swatch, using US11/8mm needles.
I cast on an exact 12 stitches and knit 20 rows in seed stitch.

Here are the results:
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3072/3250973835_3088494fbf.jpg?v=0
Perfect stitch gauge, as you stated!

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3267/3251795714_c0bc08b8b9.jpg?v=0
Row gauge is off, as you stated.

Here is the swatch, held up:
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3105/3250968983_0bd920d6db.jpg?v=0
Is this what bothered you about your swatch? The holes?

And held up to the window in my office:
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3026/3251797512_3a7be8683c.jpg?v=0

Here is a photo of the red model SYLVI, as seen in the PDF pattern. As you can see, the seed stitch is also loose-ish. I'll bet we'd see a lot of daylight if we held it up to the window! And I have read that is normal.
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3079/3250991177_7afbbb5aef.jpg?v=0
SYLVI pattern stitch isn't a tight and dense seed stitch.
Actually, a yarn that delivers a real dense seed stitch might also weigh a lot more, and this coat already weighs itself down when worn.

I think we have a WINNER with Cocoon!
Afterall, we will be wearing the SYLVI, we won't be holding it up to the window! :teehee:

laikabear
02-04-2009, 02:33 AM
First of all, is it okay to work the sleeve using a larger circ and Magic Loop instead of 2 circs?

I'm still struggling with stitching the cuff, so it doesn't matter yet. I can't believe there's no photo! I'd never have figured it out on my own. Yours looks great Kithic (sp?)! The cuffs diagram that Tikru posted was a little helpful but if you are stitching the cast on edge (on the bottom) to a point about 1" below the bind off edge (which is on the top and overlapping by that 1"), why are you using the tail from the bind off? You are just supposed to be doing one line of seaming across which leaves the outer edge a 1" flap, right? Am I confused??

I was thinking about copying this Raveler's cuffs. She just did seed stitch and turned it up. Uh, I'm still thinking about it. I'm going to give "backstitch" a couple more tries and that's it! http://www.ravelry.com/projects/marymealittle/sylvi To do the turned up seed stitch cuffs would you just cast on a few extra stitches, join in the round, work a couple inches, then decrease to the 39 you're supposed to have?

laikabear
02-04-2009, 03:20 AM
And thanks to Artlady for figuring out how to do the INcreases amidst seed stitch! I was very discouraged when I saw the photo posted by the Raveler who was having trouble. Yours look great though, and you paved the way for us!

I am not 100% decided on which size to make yet. I have about a 35.5" bust. I was thinking I'd do the 38", do you think that will be enough ease? It doesn't get very cold here, so it's not like I'd be wearing a big sweater underneath... Decisions, decisions. I've never made something in pieces before. All my garments have been "try as you go!" I don't want to get finished and realize it's too big or too small!!

OK back to those cuffs. I think I'm going to do them both now if I can get the first one to look okay. Then I can forget about them!

laikabear
02-04-2009, 03:44 AM
OK, so the way I understood the pattern: finish the knitting for the cuff with Row 2, then bind off on the right side. I bound off by knitting the knits and purling the purls. Then, I overlapped the bindoff edge on top of the cast on edge by about 1", with the right side facing out. This left the yarn tail on the left side. I used the backstitch to stitch down the overlap about 2 stitches below the bindoff edge so there is a little lip there. Here is a cameraphone photo (sorry it's a bit blurry).

The overlap is left over right as you look at the photo, and the K4 edge is at the top of the photo. That would make this the LEFT CUFF, but I thought I followed the instructions for the RIGHT CUFF. Was I supposed to bind off on the wrong side? I guess I can do the next one backwards of the way I did it and still end up with 2 complementary cuffs. But still! :eyes:

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3497/3252882336_b10f2f78be_o.jpg

ArtLady1981
02-04-2009, 04:01 AM
Hi Maureen~

I think the size 38 (for your tiny frame) will be great. You don't to be 'swimming' in your Sylvi! And because the seed stitch is loosey-goosey, the coat will have a lot of 'give'. I've seen some Sylvi's that are miles too big for the person, and it just makes them look lost! And in some cases, rather dumpy. :pout:

Look at this Sylvi! I think her coat is about the same measurement as her bustline, but she looks fabulous in it!
http://www.ravelry.com/projects/knits/sylvi

About the cuffs! I was looking at those turned up cuffs just today! Oh how I love them!:heart: If I was gonna make the turned up cuffs I would cast on maybe 45 st...seed in the round for 3" (for the sake of argument, let's say that's 15 rounds) then decrease those stitches out over the next 6 rounds as follows: Round 16: decrease 1 st on each side of the marker (43 st); Round 17 no decreases; Round 18: dec 1 st each side of marker (41 st); Round 19 no decreases; Round 20: dec 1 st each side of the marker (39 st); and Rounds 21-30 no decreases. When the cuff is 6" your built-in cuff is done. Now mark the next round as sleeve round #1...and from that round upwards is your sleeve.

When you're done, the first 3" of the cuff will be turned up and tacked into place. The reason to have the first 3" a bit wider is to allow it room to fit over the other part of the cuff, the part that doesn't show.

If you want a 4" turned-up cuff, the same 'principles' apply.
You'd knit a total of 8", decreasing out the 6 extra stithes over 6 rounds at the 4" mark.

http://www.ravelry.com/projects/marymealittle/sylvi

Her cuff looks like it is 4-5" when turned up!
Her words: "Sleeve cuffs were increased and folded back..."
I wish she had shared more of her modifications with us!
People really do read our notes. They aren't a waste of time!

Remember this: this turned-up cuff will weigh more, and may pull your sleeve down longer than you allowed for. The cuff that is included in the pattern is lightweight.

YES, magicloop will work just fine for the sleeves in-the-round. I'm not done with my Sleeve#1 re-do. I really should do magicloop for it, however, I have to use ADDI Turbos with this yarn. It is very splitty. My long length Options split the hairs like crazy, and drive me crazy! And that takes time to use a crochet hook to fix a 'split' that is down even one round.

ArtLady1981
02-04-2009, 04:48 AM
Hi Maureen~ To respond to your post (#106):

Just so long as you have two cuffs that are different...one for the left sleeve and one for the right sleeve.

I made both sleeves reversed. That is to say, when I was knitting the RIGHT SLEEVE, it turned out to be a LEFT SLEEVE, and vice versa.

Here's the rub: I knit with the RIGHT SIDE on the inside.
When I picked up the 39 st beginning at the seamline, and worked those (k1P1) x 4, k1...then seed for the rest of the way around....this 'direction' actually created a LEFT CUFF cuz of its being knit from the inside track!

But that's ok. I did the same routine for the "LEFT SLEEVE", starting at the seamline, I did the (k1P1) x 14, k1 and then seed for the rest of the way. This created a RIGHT SLEEVE.

Sigh.

I read the notes for another SYLVI over at Rav, and she did the same darn thing as me. But, in the end, as long as we repeat the same 'mistake', it's all good!

Don't worry about that 15" tail. If you don't need it, just weave it in for a ways, and nip it off. Use another length of yarn to do your backstitching.

Yes, as I remember, I finished up with a Row 2 for the cuff, and binded off on the next row. She says "repeat these TWO rows til 14" "...so I took her literally. I think if she'd wanted us to end with a Row 1 repeated once more she would have said that specifically. I wish she would have spelled it out better, and not leave us to second-guess her...but...:shrug:



Writing patterns is no easy task. I knit a zippered sweater jacket for my DH recently, and one of our members here at KH mentioned that if I publish the pattern she'd love to buy it. It is humbling! Knitting something is the easiest part. WRITING OUT the pattern details so that someone else can understand what to do and when...that is just mind boggling. And my pattern was a very simple design. Oy.

AnnaElch
02-04-2009, 05:55 AM
Yes, it was exactly those holes that were bothering me, but if you say it does not look weird or anything, then I'll have a try.

I love working with this yarn, too. The only way I can afford this is because my LYS promised me a refund for some other yarn I had dye lot trouble with. (Same number on the label, still different dye lot:?? )

So, where to start?

Karina
02-04-2009, 06:03 AM
Maureen - thanks for the link to the cuffs, I think That is the way I will go.

Artlady - I really love the seed stitch cuffs better than the original. When you do the decreases is there a reason why you only do them in one place over a few rows, instead of on one row and evenly spaced out. never done a cuff before so am just trying to understand how it works.

Karina
02-04-2009, 06:04 AM
Hi Anna we are all starting with the sleeves, I think the designer recommended that as well.

laikabear
02-04-2009, 08:30 AM
Well, I got my 2 cuffs done, and I picked up and started knitting the seed stitch on the RIGHT sleeve. I was not 100% sure what she meant by working into the back loop of the 2nd sts from the edge on the front of the fabric. I took it to mean that the pickup point was one leg of the 2nd to last stitch closest to the top.

Now that I'm looking at it again, I don't think that is what she meant at all. I think it meant to knit into the back loop as you pick them up, to twist them and therefore get them tighter. Oops. Oh well, I think mine look okay the way I picked them up anyway.

Here are a couple of photos. Gosh that sleeve is going to be pretty wide on my bony little wrist!

So Artlady are you done with the back yet?! :teehee: I am going to enlarge & color in my charts next!

GinnyG
02-04-2009, 08:38 AM
Hmmmm, I'm liking the seed stitch cuff......... I have finished one cuff (for the second time) but am really not happy with it. I might try the seed stitch.....

slugmom
02-04-2009, 01:48 PM
I'm so glad you posted those pictures with the 'holey' seed stitch swatches and said it shouldn't be dense, that's been one of my concerns with my gauge, too!

I had to laugh when you called yourself a runt, ArtLady ... I'm only 5' also, LOL. So I'm extra glad you're "going before me" on the sleeve.

My goal is to get my swatch done today (baby steps, LOL) so I know my row gauge and can plan / adjust accordingly. :)

ArtLady1981
02-04-2009, 05:17 PM
Maureen - thanks for the link to the cuffs, I think That is the way I will go.

Artlady - I really love the seed stitch cuffs better than the original. When you do the decreases is there a reason why you only do them in one place over a few rows, instead of on one row and evenly spaced out. never done a cuff before so am just trying to understand how it works.

I thought putting the decreases on each side of the seamline would hide them best. And remember, you have to maintain the seed st sequencing, so you have to knock out two stitches side-by-side anyways. It's not like decreasing in plain st st. Otherwise, you'd have a P1P1 when you removed the K1 by itself, or vice versa...a K1K1 if you removed just a P1.

But, you could certainly work your two decreases side by side at different locations around the circumference of the cuff. I'd start out at the seamline, but if I didn't like it, I'd try dispersing the decrease sequences around the cuff. Good thought.

I suggested working a 'decrease row' every other row, just so that it is more gradual, and not too radical. The 'resting row' gives the 'decrease row' time to settle in and feel comfortable. A lot patterns use decrease rows no more frequently than EOR.

But this is only a suggestion. There are prolly other ways that are just as good, But it's what I'd try first. If I liked the results, I do it for the second cuff, too. If not, I'd frog it and try something else. Tinker, tinker. That's me. The tinker thinker! :roflhard:

laikabear
02-05-2009, 02:21 AM
Alright Ginny, do you have some cuffs to show us? :poke:

AnnaElch
02-05-2009, 04:58 PM
So I have knitted up a little cabled piece with my Rowan Cocoon, I do love this yarn, but.....this might sound weird....it just does not want to be Sylvi, I can't see it in my mind's eye. Perhaps it's the visible Mohair fibers mixed in, I don't know:shrug: . As much as I would have liked to start on this, I set Rowan aside to become something else.

I reread the Yarn Subs thread over at the Ravelry group and noticed this yarn factory recommended by a German Raveler (the one with the fern green Sylvi Cardi), she used their yarn for hers.

So I called them today and they will send me a sample card which hopefully arrives tomorrow.

So now I am back to square one.:sad:

evona
02-05-2009, 06:45 PM
So I have knitted up a little cabled piece with my Rowan Cocoon, I do love this yarn, but.....this might sound weird....it just does not want to be Sylvi, I can't see it in my mind's eye. Perhaps it's the visible Mohair fibers mixed in, I don't know:shrug: . As much as I would have liked to start on this, I set Rowan aside to become something else.

I reread the Yarn Subs thread over at the Ravelry group and noticed this yarn factory recommended by a German Raveler (the one with the fern green Sylvi Cardi), she used their yarn for hers.

So I called them today and they will send me a sample card which hopefully arrives tomorrow.

So now I am back to square one.:sad:

I know what you mean about how yarn just doesn't want to be what you want it to be. I'm sure that some pattern will call out to your Rowan Cocoon soon :)

And don't worry about being back to square one - there's at least a few of us taking this project slowly because of random daily life things so you likely won't be the last one done :teehee:

slugmom
02-05-2009, 07:05 PM
I've got my gauge swatch done! :woot:

12 stitches to 4" with 11's (8 mm)
21 rows to 4"

http://images4cf.ravelry.com/uploads/slugmom/5196549/stitchgauge_medium.jpg

How's it look?

So now I can start on the sleeves, right! I need to re-read the sleeve info, I don't think I'll do the overlap. Oooh and I need to decide what size to knit, I was leaning towards L ... my bust is about 40" so L should be about right, and the row gauge issue will shorten it up for me, right? Any other parts of my body I need to measure before picking a size for sure? I'm 5' tall ...

:) I'm excited!

ArtLady1981
02-05-2009, 07:40 PM
Hi there slugmom! :waving: Welcome to Shortsville! :roflhard:
I'm 5' too, and prolly shrinking with age, but 5' is what I cling to!

You will prolly want to shorten the sleeves, like me.
So, before starting the sleeve increases crop out some length.
I am not sure how many inches you need to crop, but, you can find out by doing the math as compared to your row gauge.

Don't try to change the sleeve cap in any way...cuz this would make you also change the FRONTS and BACK in that corresponding region. A nightmare of math.

If you wanna lengthen or shorten a sleeve, best to do it BEFORE the sleeve cap/armhole area.

Your swatch is beeeauuutiful! :thumbsup:

Anna~ I know what you mean about a yarn that wants to be what it wants to be, not necessarily what YOU want it to be.
Raisin' kids is just like that, now that I think about it! :teehee:

evona
02-06-2009, 01:11 AM
Anna~ I know what you mean about a yarn that wants to be what it wants to be, not necessarily what YOU want it to be.
Raisin' kids is just like that, now that I think about it! :teehee:


Amen!

laikabear
02-06-2009, 10:04 AM
First of all, thanks to Artlady for the hint on the sleeve increases. Mine worked out great! I also added 2.5" to the sleeve before the increases.

NOW, I just finished binding off my 7 sts and worked my 5 even rows. I did the 2 decrease rows as written, which has given me 2 purl sts on each end of the RS. The next direction is "repeat decrease row every 4th row (1) more time, then..." So that means, knit the next 3 rows even, right? My dilemma is, what do I do with those edge sts? Do I want a column of 1 purl st on each end of the RS? Help!

My second question is, when trying the sleeve on for length (presuming I get through the decreases), where does the little notch for the bound off sts fall? Is it right at the armpit? I hope not, because if I pull those bound off sts right up into my armpit, the sleeve is about 1" shorter than I'd hoped for. :waah:

laikabear
02-06-2009, 10:08 AM
OK, one more question. I read several directions to SL1 at the beginning of a row. The pattern key says only "slip" and not whether you should slip knit wise or purl wise. I thought that whenever a pattern says SL1 and doesn't specify, you are supposed to slip it purlwise, otherwise it twists the stitch. So that is what I was doing.

HOWEVER, a few rows later I encountered "SL1 purlwise." Crap, was I supposed to be slipping the others knitwise? This distinction was always a puzzle to me when making socks. In fact, I have only one completed pair. So did I screw up? I am hoping that it doesn't make too much of a difference, so I just continued knitting, and slipping my SL1's purlwise.

laikabear
02-06-2009, 11:18 AM
OK, never mind about that first question. I realized I was on the wrong row. There is a RS decrease, WS plain row. Then it says repeat decrease every 4th row. Well, that would be on the WS, right? Nope, it was supposed to be the RS. Then every other row (all on the RS).

WHY AM I HAVING SO MUCH TROUBLE WITH THIS PATTERN? We are supposed to be on the Easy Peasy part. I will admit I started taking some new medication this week but sheesh!

ArtLady1981
02-06-2009, 01:26 PM
Good morning all! Well, it's a nice cloudy drizzly day out West!
A good day for a fireplace, coffee and the Sylvi Sleeve!

Laikabear~ I do believe the BIND OFF 7 edge is basically equivalent to the same edge created with these kind of sleeve directions: "SHAPE SLEEVE CAP: Bind off 3 stitches at the beg of the next two rows" when knitting a sleeve the conventional flat way.

So, yes, I think that BIND OFF 7 area will fall in the armpit region.

The true 'test' will be after you finish sleeve#1 and put those ten st on hold. Then and really only then, can you truly see how your sleeve will fit. By putting your arm into the sleeve and holding the 10 st up to your sideneck...you'll see exactly where the armpit is, and where the cuff hits.

If it's too short...you might could frog back, pulling out the BIND OFF 7 row...and knit some additional 'even' seed rows to lengthen the sleeve before starting the cap again with the BIND OFF 7 row.

When the directions say, "work the decrease row 1 more time every 4th row..." it means this: there are 2 decrease rows total. And lets call that the first one Seed Row 60. The next decrease row would be Seed Row 64.

Notice, I don't number my rows starting from 1 again after the sleeve cap bindoffs. I just keep numbering them from where I started at the top of the cuff. I use those red row markers to keep track of what row I'm on. It's critical to know what row you're on with this sleeve.

FYI: I didn't slip any stitches on the first stitch cuz I'm not working the inside-out seam. The slip stitch is for 'decoration' when the seams meet and roll to the outside, and I must say, I agree with that design feature! I think you should slip your stitches so that they don't appear twisted. You know, their appearance should be a consistent 'mount' all the way up the raglan line.

The inside-out seams are too sporty for what I want this coat for, so I'm going to use the good ole 'mattress seam'. Therefore, I worked my sleeve cap decreases using the first 2 stitches and last two stitches of each decrease row! Yup. You heard right: my decreases are on the end. The ends will be turned to the inside, hidden away, after the mattress seam is performed anyway. I don't usually EVER work my decreases on the edge...but...I did it this time on the second time around for this sleeve cap cuz by working the decreases on the end...the seed stitch pattern wasn't disturbed at all. I want a perfect field of seed stitches meeting at the raglan seamline from the outside view.

All knitters~ the main reason any of us might experience more time-consuming issues with the sleeves is because none of us is getting a correct ROW GAUGE. We all maybe have to lengthen or shorten the sleeve a bit on any sweater...what pattern EVER gives us a perfectly fitting length sleeve? But with Sylvi, our row gauge is off, so we have to tinker around with the length.

I do not think we will have these issues with the body of the sweater. The coat might just be shorter or longer due to row gauge. But sleeves, they have to fit right. So we will all appreciate our time and efforts on these SLEEVES!

I mean, whoever wants a sleeve where the cuff falls 4" longer than your fingertips please raise your hand! :teehee:

On the otherhand, whoever wants a sleeve where the cuff is an inch above or just meeting your wrist bone, please raise your hand! :teehee:

I agree with you Laikabear! I thought the sleeves would be the easiest part, too! :wall:

GinnyG
02-06-2009, 01:59 PM
Alright Ginny, do you have some cuffs to show us? :poke:
I'll try to post pics over the weekend. My computer at home fried this week and DH is trying to reinstall everything. He's not having much luck so it may be dead dead dead...........

I'm at the Fire House til Sunday but who knows, miricals happen.

laikabear
02-06-2009, 08:41 PM
So the 10 sts on the holder go all the way up at the side neck? I gotta drag out those schematics again.

I am planning on doing the seams as per the pattern. I read that part of the instructions. It says something like "Seam on the WS." WHAT? Having never seamed before I'd like a little more help than that. Oh well, I'm not there yet anyway.

I think that my sleeve is way too short. I hear some frogs....

ArtLady1981
02-06-2009, 08:43 PM
Yes, the 10 are along the side of the neck.

Yes, you would flip your work wrong sides facing and perform the mattress seam from that position. This will roll the raw edges to the public side. That's why she has you doing the fancy slip stitch on the ends.

ArtLady1981
02-07-2009, 12:13 AM
After giving it much thought, I am going to make buttonholes.

The thought of buttonholes freaks some folks about the placement them. Rav has some buttonhole discussions running.

Not to worry.

Here's what I do: I knit the LEFT SIDE first. By making the LEFT FRONT first, you will have as visible representation of the buttonband. How many rows, etc. By this, you can decide where each button will be placed.

If you've been keeping track of rows for the LEFT FRONT with the little red row markers...you can make a buttonhole 'work order' for the corresponding RIGHT SIDE. You will know EXACTLY which rows for the RIGHT FRONT will be needing a buttonhole, and exactly how many stitches each hole will span, and this depends on the size button you've settled on.

From what I can tell, the button and buttonhole bands themselves are 'built in' as you go back and forth across your rows. They are not picked up and knit later. I love built-ins!

So remember, work the LEFT SIDE first. Then the RIGHT SIDE with its corresponding buttonholes. You can't fail. I'll take some digital photos of my finished LEFT FRONT with the little yarn markers placed where each of the 5 buttons will be sewn.

Then we've saved the fun stuff for last: the BACK! :cheering:

I'd rather get the boring stuff out of the way first, wouldn't you?

I will complete my final sleeve tonight. I don't know what to call them anymore. Btu I will have a sleeve for both the RIGHT SIDE AND THE LEFT SIDE, WITH THE CUFF BUTTONS ON THE OUTSIDE! :happydance:

+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

PERSONAL NOTES:
I am very tired tonight. I didn't get any sleep last night, and I've been very stressed. Yesterday, our year-old male St. Bernard (Charlie) nearly killed our 3-yr-old male Walker Hound (Blue) in a series of 4 horrible fights within a half hour. We had to take Blue to the vet today. Emergency surgery. He would've died. He's in the kitchen now, laying on blankets.
$500 dollars later...I might add.

Both guys are neutered. However, they've only been snipped since Dec. Our female Walker Hound, Dani, has been spayed since she was six months old. She doesn't know what sex is.
So the guys aren't fighting over her. They are jealousy fighting over me and DH. We've seen signs of their posturing and snarling around us when we go out to play with them.

We just don't know what to do. Charlie is 160 lbs and Blue is only 80 lbs. Not exactly a fair fight, but Blue doesn't give in.
They just wear themselves out. My husband is a big strong guy, he can't break them up.

I cried all night I was so upset about Blue. Charlie has all the thick curly fur. The most he gets is a pierce ear. Anyway, to top it offf...now both boys have a coating of pepper spray on them. DH tried to break them up with that on fight #1 which was worst cuz the boys had more energy and fight in them. It broke up the fight, but didn't prevent 3 more. DH had to power wash the deck this morning..well, all kinds of cleanup due to the pepper spray. He'll never try that again. I nearly choked to death on the spray that wafts into the house when we open the slider door.

I guess one of the boys is going to have to been in the kennel run at all times. No more interacting...not even one bit.
Blue hid in the kennel's dog house, John locked the door...and Charlie still sat and watched for Blue to come out for round 5 maybe.

It wasn't til morning light that we realized Blue was in real bad shape. For the life of me, I don't understand how some folks think dog fights are entertainment for gambling purposes. It makes me ill to see it.

Thanks for listening. :pout:

laikabear
02-07-2009, 01:49 AM
Oh Artlady I am so sorry to hear about poor Blue. (I once had a Redbone hound named Blue!). In my experience, once dogs fight like that, they will get into it again and again, so they must be permanently separated. :(

It can be really difficult to separate a dogfight, too. The old "spray them with the hose" trick doesn't work with a real fight (well maybe if you have a FIRE hose).

I hope everything goes okay with Blue's recovery. :muah: :hug:

laikabear
02-07-2009, 01:57 AM
In sleeve news, I finished Sleeve #1 but I am a little worried that it is too short. Actually when I put it on, it seems like the area that needs more length is the decrease region (because to pull the top all the way to the side of my neck pulls the bindoff area very tight into my armpit). I guess that is one of the problems with not getting the right row gauge.

As you mentioned before, adding rows in this area will mess up the seaming, unless math is done and I figure out how to do corresponding extra rows on the front/ back pieces. For now, what I'm going to do is knit Sleeve 2 in the same manner, and hope for the best. If I go to seam and the armhole depth really is a problem, well, I guess I can figure it out then. :shrug:

I still haven't decided between buttons and a zipper... Guess I need to get thinking on that before I graduate from the sleeves...

GinnyG
02-07-2009, 10:02 AM
Dollyce, I am so sorry to hear about the boys. What a difficult spot to be in. Hoping for fast healing and peaceful energy in your house!!

ArtLady1981
02-07-2009, 12:02 PM
Thanks for your well wishes ladies! Blue did ok through the night, wimpering a bit this morning about 4. He laid down on the kitchen floor last night at 5:30pm, and here it is 8am, and he hasn't moved. He's holding his head up now though, and I was able to get his pills down. Gotta get him up soon to go out to lift the old leg.

As for the Sleeves, Maureen...yeah, if the sleeve is too short, the only place to lengthen them is before the BINDOFF 7.

I re-did my entire first sleeve and just finished it last night.
I liked how I did the 2nd sleeve so much better. So I repeated that for the re-do of Sleeve #1.

It would look nicer if you added the extra rows BEFORE the increases. Then, the increases roll right up to the BINDOFF 7 with only a row or two extra.

I'll take a photo of my two sleeves later. I can see that I need to block them cuz I have a bit of wonkiness at the junctions where the 2 circs met. Not bad but it's visible a bit.

I was tweaking the stitches last night a little with my yarn needle and a small crochet hook, then decided to let the blocking do the work for me. I'm gonna lay 'em down later today and mist the tar out of them, and when they're dry they'll prolly be better. In worst case scenario...I can always pull out the full immersion blocking method for the sleeves. The big guns! :teehee:

I cast on for the LEFT FRONT. Am about on row 16. It's gonna be a long haul...100'n'something rows of seed stitch. :eyes:

laikabear
02-07-2009, 12:50 PM
Well, one good thing about the size S is that there are only 2 increase rows, so the sleeve doesn't change in width that much. So I can probably sneak some extra length in just by ripping back to the bound off sts if I need to.

I thought about it again and I'm not sure if I'll need to or not. The weight of the sleeves will pull them down somewhat. I am going to wait for the seaming step and decide then. I would hate to make them longer now and find out later that they are too long! :doh:

I am glad Blue is hanging in there. He's doing the right thing - resting! I don't see many hounds in L.A. (except Basset Hounds, they are everywhere) and I miss that. I used to see a lot of hounds in N.C. (where I am from). I miss hearing that wonderful houndy bark. And they sure have great personalities. My Blue got into so many antics... rattlesnake bite, falling through the ice in a frozen lake and being fished out by the fire dept, terrorizing our house...

mimi
02-07-2009, 03:04 PM
So sorry to hear about your boys, but here's a a suggestion: you could write to Cesar Millan, The Dog Whisperer, tell him your story, and he may be able to give you some advice, or he may even consider this worthy of his personal attention.

We had two boys, now in doggy heaven, and they always vied for our attention, even to the point where if my husband and I were each scratching a dog, the dogs would be looking over their shoulders to make sure the other dog wasn't getting any more scratching than he was!

Good luck to all of you.

ArtLady1981
02-08-2009, 01:17 AM
Thanks for all your well wishes for Blue! He is doing better this evening, he can stand up without our assistance of a blanket under his chest and belly! He even has some stitches on his paws!

He's on anti-inflammatories, amoxicillin and pain meds.
But, like I said, he's watering the plants outside, and moving his XXX okay too!

We are looking for a home for the Saint Bernard. Being just one yr old, and a big beautiful lovable oaf, we think he stands a great chance of a new home. It is hard to place a hound, and Blue came to us as a rescue in the first place!
This is Dani (red collar) and Blue up on the mountain:
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3206/2654498948_f80ceeaef7.jpg?v=0

They are inseparable:
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3134/2284792566_7bb45016c0.jpg?v=0

This is DH and Blue:
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3122/2625031437_401caed99f.jpg?v=0

Ok, I am way off the subject here! I'm gonna post another post with SYLVI news!

Thanks for your care and concern! I feel better today. Looks like Blue will live. :cheering:

ArtLady1981
02-08-2009, 01:20 AM
I am remaking the LEFT FRONT (which only got to about 6" due to issues!) When I get my new LEFT FRONT version to the same length as the first version (saved on needles), I will post photos of each...and point out why I re-did it...and how to avoid 2 pitfalls for the FRONTS.

Two very interesting tips! Don't start your LEFT FRONT til you've read my notes and see the comparison photos.

Been distracted today, nursing my injured hound.
Up all night with him, I could hardly see straight today.
Better tonight after a few cat naps.

Karina
02-08-2009, 05:00 AM
Artlady - sorry to hear about Blue, I hope you find the St Bernard a lovely home soon.

I haven't started my Sylvi yet, My DH has just been made redundant and we are a bit panicked about what is going to happen job wise. feel very unsettled and can't seem to sit down and concentrate enough to start anything. spent 3 hours cleaning and moving furniture around last night.

AnnaElch
02-08-2009, 06:48 AM
I am really sorry about what happened with your dogs, and hope you will find a good home for the St Bernard and that Blue will be back on his paws soon. http://img12.imageshack.us/img12/440/35hfgnbcpl5.gif (http://img12.imageshack.us/my.php?image=35hfgnbcpl5.gif)
I had two dogs as well, both in Dog Heaven, they were boy and girl and it was alright. But when my aunt came to visit with her dog, also a boy, there sure was trouble.

I got the sample card from the yarn factory and have ordered an eggplant colored 12-ply, 100% Merino for Sylvi, they promised on the phone to send it on it's way on Monday. I have never ordered from them before so I hope it is alright. It was not at all expensive, which is always nice:) I will make swatches as soon as it's here.

slugmom
02-08-2009, 03:49 PM
Thanks for all your well wishes for Blue! He is doing better this evening, he can stand up without our assistance of a blanket under his chest and belly!...

Thanks for your care and concern! I feel better today. Looks like Blue will live. :cheering:

I'm so sorry to hear about your dogs fighting and Blue being hurt so badly :( Praying he continues to recover well, and that you are able to find a home for the other.

In my Sylvi update - I got the cuffs knit! Maybe. I decided to knit both before moving on to the sleeve portion. But I just made them the way the right sleeve direction said, assuming they were the same, because I was snuggled up with the baby and only had page 1 printed off ... then today, staring at them, I realized maybe they weren't the same? I'm not home now. Does the P5/K3/P2/K4 pattern of the right cuff stay the same on the left sleeve, or does it reverse, so that the bind off is ... uh ...

see, I'm just confused. LOL. I guess if I do a mattress stitch seam and you don't see the flap, it wouldn't matter because I could pick up stitches from the same side of each and the cuffs would be identical. But if I do it as written with the overlapping flap, then the flap would need to point left or right and it would matter both which way the flap goes AND which side the 5P roll is on. right?

Hey, I have another question, related to gauge and yarn. I had to go up to 11's to get gauge, and my Cascade 109 is a *fluffy* "bulky" yarn, not a dense one ... so if I'm not careful when I knit, some of my stitches aren't really tighter, but it's like the yarn twists down / narrows if there's more tension on the "puffiness" of it, and so some of my stitches look smaller. Does that make sense? is that normal? Is there some trick to knitting more evenly? I don't knit *tightly* but apparently the tension of the yarn changes from slack (yarn stays puffy) to tighter (yarn gets pulled and makes smaller stitches)

I don't want this coat to look uneven ... is it just me?

I'm going to go stare at my unseamed cuffs for awhile, since I can't start the sleeves until I read page 2 again, I guess.

imagine some confused and frazzled smilies here, I'm clicking but they're not appearing. LOL.

slugmom
02-08-2009, 06:26 PM
well, being the impatient non-perfectionist knitter that I (apparently) am, I went ahead and stitched the cuffs more or less as directed. I decided just to use the CO end as the exposed 'flap' end even though it was slightly different (less flared out) than the BO end, I didn't really want to redo the whole cuff, and figured no one will look close enough, it won't be an obvious difference. I suppose that's not good, but I think if I frogged and restarted over things like that I'd get discouraged and never finished.

I picked up 39 st. from the 4K side of the right cuff but was a little confused about "working into the back" when picking up stitches. So I just picked up the *top half* of the (now sideways) 2nd stitches and then once they were on the needle I worked the K's and P's into the back of the loop. Is that right? I'm not far enough into that (not even all the way around the first round) to see how it looks.

slugmom
02-08-2009, 06:28 PM
Ha HA! I just NOW looked at the p. 2 instructions (now that I'm home) and see I actually did it RIGHT, using the CO end for the flap! What a nice surprise :)

Now I need to try to figure out sleeve length, row gauge, and what adjustments I need to make.

Question: if I were to measure my own arm to compare to the lengths of the knitting, what do I measure? from the armpit? from the shoulder? where on the shoulder?

ArtLady1981
02-08-2009, 07:55 PM
Hi slugmom~

I measured from the base of the side of my neck, across my shoulder, down my arm to the wristbone.

On another VERY SAD NOTE: My SYLVI cuff are off. The RIGHT SLEEVE is good, the LEFT SLEEVE is off. The seamline is NOT over by the wristbone.

I am NOT going to reknit the LEFT SLEEVE, because, what's to say I'd get it right? This cuff has me baffled.

So, my remedy: go to PLAN B. I always liked the turned-up seed stitch cuff just as well...so last night, while sitting up with my injured dog...I picked up 41 stitches around the bottommost edge of the cuff, joined in the round, and worked 16 rounds of seed stitch, and binded off on round 17 with a US 13.

Voila! It is a perfect cuff. And it's gonna stay that way. Jury is out on adding a button to the side of it. I'll wait til I'm sewing buttons on the FRONTS before deciding.

Here is a photo of my new cuff. The sleeve obviously needs blocking to even out the seed stitch.
http://farm1.static.flickr.com/238/3264193005_faf3084d4e.jpg?v=0
http://farm1.static.flickr.com/250/3264192689_00d27bdea9.jpg?v=0


Inside view of the new cuff:
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3363/3264192321_204373a892.jpg?v=0

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3423/3265017044_3c890223c6.jpg?v=0

I guess there's more than one way to do something. I really had to noodle around with how to remedy my dilemma. I like the new cuff, and had considered it in the first place, like this girl over at Rav:

http://www.ravelry.com/projects/marymealittle/sylvi
I have big white pearl buttons like hers. I could use them just like she did.

I have 6 buttons, too! Could get more.

slugmom
02-08-2009, 08:08 PM
So you knit extra seed stitch *below* the bottom of the cuff, then folded it back up and over? It looks very nice, and extra warm and cushy on the inside.

Hey wait! in those pix of the red coat the sleeves have a seam! That's different than the pattern as written, right? ::breathes into a paper bag::

ArtLady1981
02-08-2009, 08:58 PM
Yup. Just like we picked up the 39 stitches along the top edge of the cuff to start knitting the sleeve, I picked up 44-45 stitches along the bottom edge to create the new cuff that will be turned up when worn! Worked great.

It's a whole lot better than frogging yet another sleeve.
Stick a fork in me, I am done (with these sleeves!)!

laikabear
02-09-2009, 12:50 AM
Artlady you never cease to amaze me. How sneaky to just cover up the original cuff with seed stitch folded over. :rofl: Your cuffs look great. I'm going to keep that trick up my sleeve (heh) in case my cuffs don't line up, or in case I don't like them in the end.

Slugmom - measure your sleeve length as Artlady directed and then check the pattern. There is a drawing of the sleeve and it says the measurements for each size. You have to add the bottom part to the cap part and if they are close enough to your measurement, you're golden. Artlady had to shorten hers, and I had to lengthen mine. Let us know and we'll help you figure it out! My guess is they are probably about perfect for someone in the 5'6" to 5'7" range...

Those pics of Blue were just what I was wanting to see! What a handsome houndy face that is!! :inlove:

laikabear
02-09-2009, 08:15 AM
PS, it does look like the coat above had the sleeves knit flat and then were seamed. Personally, I prefer to knit in the round whenever possible. I am already sweating over the seaming we'll be doing for Sylvi, since we know finishing can make or break a garment!

AND, if you look at the photos, the first one looks like the button is on the outside of the cuff, and in the second one it almost looks like the cuff is pinched off to the outside with the button to make it fit her wrist a little better. Like there may be a button on the back side also. Hmmm... I think if I did mine that way, I'd put the button on the outside of the wrist.

I'm still hoping my "per pattern" cuffs will turn out okay. But the place where they are stitched down tends to flare out a bit, not roll up like the rest of the cuff...

laikabear
02-09-2009, 08:24 AM
Here is my crude sketch of what I was babbling about in the previous post. In the first photo of the red jacket, I thought the cuffs were like my top drawing. In the second photo, it looks more like the drawing on the bottom. Like French cuffs!

Anyway, as you can see, that scholarship from art school probably isn't forthcoming, but hopefully it illustrates my point.

GinnyG
02-09-2009, 09:51 AM
DEFINATELY frogging the cuffs and going with the seed stitch verson. I like the look much better.

My computer at home is fried so couldn't take pictures this weekend. DH has spent most of the last two days rebuilding the hard drive (I am keeping my fingers crossed that my thousands of pics haven't been lost). Hopefully I'll be able to post pics this week........



Artlady, so glad Blue is healing and so sad that you need to rehome your St Bernard. I hope it works out for everyone!

ArtLady1981
02-09-2009, 03:24 PM
DEFINATELY frogging the cuffs and going with the seed stitch verson. I like the look much better.

GinnyG~ You are fortunate to be making the seed stitch version from the get-go. When you make the seed st version from scratch: cast on 41 st with a US13 needle, using nice snug cast on. Join in the round, knit Round 1 with the US11 needle. Knit for 16 rounds. On round 17, decrease down to 39 stitches...and work 16 more rounds. (I binded off with the US13, and it gives the edge more room to breathe. Not tight or choked looking)

FYI: The first 16 rounds need those extra stitches cuz those rounds will be the 'folded up' part of the cuff. The fold-up 'public' part of the cuff should be a bit bigger around. BTW: whatever number you cast on, it has to be an odd number for the seed stitch to be right at the stitch marker. Been there, done that wrong the first time!

Then you will be ready to begin your sleeve as per pattern with the 39 stitches you'd have 'picked up'. Be sure to put a temp row marker where the cuff ends and the sleeve begins. Use a diff color than you'll use to mark rows in the sleeve.

Here are my new cuffs! Hippee. I have two sleeves that will fit! And the buttons will be on the outside by my wristbone!

http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1260/3266630319_bf3266a971.jpg?v=0

http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1179/3267455218_114d0541ae.jpg?v=0

http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1096/3266625429_3f61966832.jpg?v=0

http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1059/3266626209_70b46cca27.jpg?v=0

http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1351/3266627919_4292fb1e68.jpg?v=0

Here is a side view on me (in my pj's still :pout:):
http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1315/3267456246_d58c965be8.jpg?v=0

Sorry this one is blurry, but the point is served:
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3430/3266630927_e4d98a901e.jpg?v=0

Last night, I tried 'pinching' the stitches through both thicknesses...but I didn't like it. This yarn is too fat for that.
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3373/3266623711_f6bda00e5b.jpg?v=0

"Help! I'm being strangled to death!" :roflhard:
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3395/3266624003_985e0ab5fc.jpg?v=0

I don't know what she did to secure her cuff buttons into place,
but she also used a diff yarn than me.
http://www.ravelry.com/projects/marymealittle/sylvi

Maybe she pinched through all 4 thicknesses, but if so...I'm
thinking she might have done it real loose, leaving a long
thread through all the 4 thicknesses. Not cinching up like I
did in my trial.

Anyway, her SYLVI is beautiful, and she looks ADORABLE!
A real doll! :heart:

GinnyG
02-09-2009, 03:28 PM
Looks GREAT!!!

evona
02-09-2009, 06:54 PM
:cheering: Those look great Artlady!! I really love those seed stitch cuffs. I am trying mine the original way for now though. My son and I went to a volunteer trip this weekend so I didn't get any knitting done, but I'll make up for it tonight :)

ArtLady1981
02-09-2009, 07:10 PM
:cheering: Those look great Artlady!! I really love those seed stitch cuffs. I am trying mine the original way for now though. My son and I went to a volunteer trip this weekend so I didn't get any knitting done, but I'll make up for it tonight :)

Yeah, I wanted to make those cute original cuffs, and in fact, I did make them! But, alas, I couldn't position that cuff seam or overlap in the right place for the second sleeve.

So it was either off the the FROG POND, or, PLAN B for me!

I chose PLAN B.
If PLAN B didn't look good, I'd to visit the FROG POND! :frog:

The ORIGINAL cuffs have turned out great for tons of knitters.
I still don't know what I did wrong on my original cuff positioning. :wall:

ArtLady1981
02-09-2009, 09:14 PM
I knit about 8" of my LEFT FRONT, and decided I hated the bottommost edge.

I left it be, didn't frog it. I started a brand new LEFT FRONT from scratch!

I have 2 great tips on HOW TO avoid these 2 LEFT FRONT pitfalls:

PITFALL #1)

I'm gonna let my photos do the talkin':
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3504/3267449597_07f143e2dd.jpg?v=0

PITFALL #2)
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3383/3267449859_b22d77a5ff.jpg

SOLUTION FOR PITFALL #1:
Work shortrows on Rows 5, 9, 13, and 17.
Here are some photos of what I mean:
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3434/3267451963_a8eb56aed2.jpg?v=0

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3318/3268276534_70bf7518a4.jpg?v=0

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3309/3268276828_35260908d0.jpg?v=0
Rows 5&6 are repeated for the 3 following short rows.

SOLUTION FOR PITFALL #2)
I had originally cast on with my gauge needle (US11) for the OLD Left Front (with the warped bottom edge). For the NEW Left Front, I used a US13 and cast on nice and snug. For Row 1 of seed stitch, I reverted back to the gauge needle, US11.

NOTES about Solution #2: Using the larger size needle for the cast on let my bottommost edge spread out more evenly. True, you could cast on LOOSELY with your gauge needle, but that in itself can be dicey looking. Better to upgrade the needle size an load the cast on stitches equally firmly. Not tight, just firm.

Here are the results!
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3335/3268275824_ae774ebf78.jpg?v=0

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3474/3267450243_ef03c69edb.jpg?v=0

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3429/3268274926_c960533243.jpg?v=0

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3335/3268275412_717fa8c86c.jpg?v=0

I might add: the buttonband BUMP in my original LEFT FRONT is the same as seen on the model sweater. I just don't like the look.
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3466/3267511289_aff8c0c508_o.jpg
I believe it's caused because: the seed stitches across the row meet up with st st & rev st st for the last 6 buttonband stitches. The st st & rev st st "stack taller" than the seed stitch.

It wasn't necessary to work more than just those 4 short rows (on Rows 5, 9, 13, and 17). I tried doing it on Rows 21 & 25...but then the buttonband started curving vertically. :pout: So I frogged those rows. Good news is: the straight edge across is bottom is stable. So why do more short rows when 4 will solve the buttonband bump?

WhooHoo!

I hope this post will help you achieve the SYLVI that you want! :happydance:

ArtLady1981
02-10-2009, 03:08 AM
The Left Front is knitting up the inches quickly in a bulky yarn.

And if you use a yarn that you absolutely love to touch, every stitch is therapy!

Rowan Polar, Rowan Cocoon, and Malabrigo Merino are my YUM YARNS!

I've used yarns I hate to handle, eg Tahki Donegal Tweed, but sometimes ya just have to bite the bullet and go for it.

SYLVI is a joy to knit using Rowan Polar. :happydance:

slugmom
02-10-2009, 11:33 AM
Just a quick question -- my sleeves fit on my shortest circs so I don't HAVE to do 2 circs around - it's comfortable to knit, but it is stretched out across the circle. Is that okay?

ArtLady1981
02-10-2009, 12:47 PM
Personally, I wouldn't. Mine was the same way, I could've used one OPTIONS 16" fixed circ. However, the stitches were straining to make 'in the round'.
It is an umcomfortable fit. And, OPTIONS tips were splitting my yarn like crazy. I ended up using2-24" Addi Turbos. Addi tips don't split yarn.

I still wonder if the single circ would have changed the gauge or made the seed stitch holey.

You could try it for a ways...stop and measure your gauge, and assess the overall appearance. If you like it, continue. If you don't, frog it and get out 2 circs.

Report back! We're all curious!

BTW: there is a Raveler who knit her sleeves flat. I wish I'd given that idea more thought. In the round with 2 circs was an adventure for me (first time) but it was awkward and slow.

Knitting them flat: the increases that woulda been on each side of the st marker would go at each end of the rows. The BIND OFF 7 would transition to BIND OFF 3 at the beginning of the next two rows. And the sleeve cap shaping remains identical, except that you have to lose 1 more stitch somewhere along the way. So's you'll end up with 10 at the top.

If you were gonna make the original pattern cuff, you'd still pickup those 39 st, however, you'd pick them up with the cuff flat, too. You couldn't work the little overlap trick though. You'd seam the cuffs conventionally when you seam the sleeve itself.

GinnyG
02-10-2009, 12:52 PM
Can you use Magic Loop?

ArtLady1981
02-10-2009, 12:56 PM
Oh certainly!

If there's a next time for circular sleeves, I'll make myself do MagicLoop!

GinnyG
02-10-2009, 01:10 PM
I love love LOOOOOOOOOVE magic loop!!

evona
02-10-2009, 01:25 PM
I love love LOOOOOOOOOVE magic loop!!

Me too - that's what I'm using!

Kithic
02-10-2009, 04:49 PM
Another magic looper here! I ML everything even when I have the correct cable size, lol!

ArtLady1981
02-11-2009, 03:38 AM
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3340/3270776359_7438c016dc.jpg?v=0
DONE!

The gray/tan threads are 10 row markers.
The red thread in the seed stitch area is marking row 100.
The red threads in the buttonband are marking where the buttons will be sewn, and correspondingly, on the Right Side, the EXACT ROW on which to work buttonholes.

I am going to make 5 buttonholes.
Rows 55, 77, 99, 121, and 143. They are 5" apart.
I'm doing 5 because I want my coat to close farther down.
Where the 4th button would be is just too high up I think.

I will leave all of these threads in the LEFT FRONT until I am ready to block the FRONTS and BACK.

The row markers ensure that the RIGHT FRONT will be a mirror image of the LEFT FRONT. And the BACK raglan armhole shaping will be a mirror image of the FRONTS.

BTW: the neck shaping for the LEFT FRONT has about 11 short rows. The directions say, for example: work across the row up to the last 6 st/wrap&turn/knit back. Well, I tried the wrap & turn on all the RS rows, but I didn't like the appearance of the final row 11 wherein you are supposed to clean up all the wraps. So I unraveled all 11 rows...back to Row 146 last plain row worked...and I worked that first short row like this: work across the row up to the last 6 st/turn/knit back. In other words, I didn't wrap. I just turned around and knit back...no wraps. I must tell you, there are no holes. You have to be sure to snug the stitches....but it works! I can't claim the idea. Elsebeth Lavold says this in one of her recent books. I think I was knitting VIVECA. She says if you keep the stitches snug, you won't have holes! I was working short rows for the shoulder shaping of VIVECA. Like it's not a big deal. Not too many short rows involved anyways.

My first attempt using the W&T for SYLVI tonight, I was trying to remember Cat Bordhi's video on short rows wrap&turn method that hides the wrap on the pickup wraps row...but I couldn't. It was just a horrid mess. And I do think this neckline area will be very visible...and it must be perfect. No messy row eleven for the 'clean up wraps' if you decide to do the wraps. Look up Cat Bordhi's video. Her method is really cool. I just didn't want to go in and look it up. I woulda if PLAN B didn't work either.

So my PLAN B for the neckline shaping worked out just fine. Just thought I'd mention it.

My coat seems like it will hit me just above the knee. If it stretches as some claim SYLVI does, then it might could come down below my knee.

I am good with that. I have a 'mid-calf' coat already.
"GROVE"...knit last Spring. Malabrigo Merino, color: natural.
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3081/2584822071_83f2a05441.jpg

ArtLady1981
02-11-2009, 03:51 AM
Mastering short rows: wrap & turn and concealing the wraps by CAT BORHDI. Excellent videos!

PART ONE:
_yVikAvPuE4


PART TWO:
kFrVqx-iN7k

Woodi
02-11-2009, 05:40 AM
Oh, this video on Wrap and Turn is so very very interesting. Thank you Artlady, once again. Has Cat Bordhi made any knitting videos yet? It is obvious that she has an intimate knowledge of how stitches are formed, understands the knitting process extremely well. Kudos to her for sharing her knowledge! (even though I agree that her presentation can be a bit annoying.....it's worth suffering through it for the knowledge she imparts).

Your coat is coming along beautifully. What an artistic achievment this will be when done!

bikergalknits
02-11-2009, 05:58 PM
Hi D....I am finally here....I am still waiting on yarn...but following you closely here...and may I say..I want to be like you !!! See you on Rav, too!
hugs, Lorna

ArtLady1981
02-11-2009, 06:53 PM
Woodi~ Just GOOGLE the Cat Bordhi name. She has lots of short, informational knitting videos for free on YOUTUBE! Whoot!

I spent a long time the other night, watching and listening to her videos on YouTube! When you watch one video, several other offerings are listed on the right hand side of the screen.

It is mesmorizing. I felt like Tarzan, swinging from vine to vine in the jungle!
I just couldn't help myself! :teehee:

I actually downloaded my favorites to my RealPlayer Library.
I think if I'm offline, (off-the-grid in the mountains), I could play them using my RealPlayer software, couldn't I?

I like her because she's so slow and methodical in her teaching. It is those annoying analogies and stories that she includes in her dialog that REALLY DRIVE THE LESSON HOME!:thumbsup:

She has a gift!

laikabear
02-11-2009, 11:05 PM
So, Artlady, is the back next for you? Or the right front? Did you decide about putting a flower motif on the RF?

I am taking a break from Sylvi (I wanted you to get ahead of me and it looks like it worked!) and working on Dashing. I should be done by tomorrow night so I can start the LF! :happydance:

Marria
02-12-2009, 01:30 AM
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3340/3270776359_7438c016dc.jpg?v=0
DONE!
BTW: the neck shaping for the LEFT FRONT has about 11 short rows. The directions say, for example: work across the row up to the last 6 st/wrap&turn/knit back. Well, I tried the wrap & turn on all the RS rows, but I didn't like the appearance of the final row 11 wherein you are supposed to clean up all the wraps. So I unraveled all 11 rows...back to Row 146 last plain row worked...and I worked that first short row like this: work across the row up to the last 6 st/turn/knit back. In other words, I didn't wrap. I just turned around and knit back...no wraps. I must tell you, there are no holes. You have to be sure to snug the stitches....but it works! I can't claim the idea. Elsebeth Lavold says this in one of her recent books. I think I was knitting VIVECA. She says if you keep the stitches snug, you won't have holes! I was working short rows for the shoulder shaping of VIVECA. Like it's not a big deal. Not too many short rows involved anyways.



Just jumping in for a moment to tell you about the yarn over short row. This is a method someone showed me recently and there are no wraps to hide. Essentially, you make a yo after you turn and then when you knit back, you correct the mount of the yo on the needle and knit it together with the stitch. It looks much tidier to me than the regular w&t method.

There's a good explanation of it here:

http://nonaknits.typepad.com/nonaknits/2005/04/yarn_over_short.html

OK--Jumping back out to LurkLand now. :)

ArtLady1981
02-12-2009, 09:19 AM
Thanks Marria!!!!! That was a great link! THREE types of yarn overs techniques! I am gonna give it a try with the neckline short row shaping for my RF! :happydance:


Laikabear~ I'm working on the RF now while I have my "Fronts" mojo rollin'. The BACK will be my special treat, a reward for suffering through the SLEEVES and CUFFS, and the endless seed stitch of the FRONTS! :roflhard:

I dunno what happened to my vine, leaves, and flower for the RF. It's not too late to frog back. I am only on row 9 of the RF. BTW, the short rows to correct that buttonhole band BUMP are worked on rows 4, 8, 12, 16 on the RF.

I've been totally sleep deprived since last Thursday when the dog fight occurred. I mean, I normally sleep SOUNDLY and without disturbance from 3am til 9 am...but I do need those undisturbed 6 hours. I sleep like a log. But, Blue's recovery has thrown that off by a mile. The drain is out now, so last night I went to bed at 11pm (!), put a blanket on the floor, and tied him to the leg of our bed. I slept straight through from 11pm til 5 am. So here I am, in my office, talking to you, with Blue tied to the arm of my chair on that blanket! He likes to be where I'm at, and he busts out of the kitchen barricades all the time now since he's feeling more houndy. :wink:

Now that I got my 6 hrs sleep, I havemore mental energy to go out to my knitting place and tackle the RF flower issue! I just totally forgot about it I think! :??

Over at Rav: I stumbled upon a cabled pullover hoodie (designed by the SYLVI designer) called Green Cables #28 Vogue Fall 2008 issue that I would love to do next! It has a GROUP, too. In rummaging around in my Stash Notebook at Rav, I couldn't see any yarn on hand that will work. It takes about 1400 yds of bulky (3st=1"). And although I have enough of the Rowan POLAR (winter white) for it, I'm not feelin' a hooded pullover in winter white. I'm envisioning a saturated color, like dk gold, dk green, tobacco brown!

Anyway, I'm on the Stash Train...and should continue to visit YARN JAIL and parole yarn who've served their time for my 2009 projects...:roflhard:...so maybe later Green Gables! (http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/28-vihervaara--huppari---greengable--hoodie) 2010 is right around the corner!

ArtLady1981
02-12-2009, 01:44 PM
I made a buttonhole ‘swatch’ as an experiment for buttonhole modifications, and also, to see if my 1.75” button would fit through a buttonhole that is essentially just one yarnover in width. (it does)
I cast on 12 stitches to add 6 seed stitches on the other side of the buttonhole band.
So here are some photos that demonstrate the 3 buttonhole placement options.
The bottommost buttonhole on the swatch is the p3/k1/ssk/yo (per pattern) buttonhole.
The middle (2nd) buttonhole is p2/ssk/yo/k1/p1.
The top (3rd) buttonhole is p2/yo/ssk/k1/p1.
Buttonholes #2 & #3 just trade where the yo is.
Also featured are photos that show how the button looks when buttoned into the 3 buttonhole positions.
I’m liking buttonhole#2 the best. I don’t like my buttonhole to be inside the field of seed stitch.
I prefer it within the buttonhole band itself. Just personal preference.

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3418/3273961771_580a4e1dce.jpg?v=0
Above: Swatch showing 3 buttonhole positions

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3496/3273961361_e11c37db41.jpg?v=0
Above: Buttoned into buttonhole style#1
(per pattern: p3/k1/ssk/yo)

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3467/3273961009_dbb0e1f471.jpg?v=0
Above: Buttoned into buttonhole style#2
(p2/ssk/yo/k1/p1)

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3479/3274782096_6025cd91d2.jpg?v=0
Above: Buttoned into buttonhole style#3
(p2/yo/ssk/k1/p1)

Karina
02-12-2009, 02:50 PM
I prefer the middle one as well. makes a better fit for the button.

GinnyG
02-12-2009, 02:57 PM
I am well on my way to my first sleeve. Unfortunately my computer is still being repaired and I only have the laptop an d cannot post pics, but soon.

I did a seed stitch cuff, slightly different from ArtLadys. I cast on 41 stitches using the cable cast on, which gives a nice firm edge, and did 16 rows of seed stitch using a size 11 needle. Then I switched to size 10 and knit one row followed by a purl row. This created a turning ridge for the cuff. I then continued the seed stitch pattern.

Today I was thinking about the "order" of things and wondering if there is a benefit to doing the back first. The back is the pattern and while there may be a bit of wiggle room I would hate to do the front sides and then have trouble matching the back length wise........

ArtLady1981
02-12-2009, 05:14 PM
That's a good point, Ginny. :thumbsup:

Your point is something to consider, for those whose row gauge is way off, which is usually shorter row gauge, not taller.

It could go two ways:

a) Knit the BACK first, and surprise! It's 5" shorter than the schematics. So you knit the FRONTS to match if 5" shorter is ok with you. Or, frog the BACK down to the bottom edge and re-work it for more length after you've knit the FRONTS to determine just how many additional rows you need to add to make the coat the right length for you.

-OR-

b) You knit the LEFT FRONT first, and surprise! It is 5" shorter than the schematics. So you un-do it down to the armhole shaping, and add inches to the body. Then add the same inches to the BACK charts.

I think :think: those are the two scenarios that could present themselves when trying to decide what to start first, FRONTS or BACK.

But I am tired right now, and need a nap! I might not be thinking it through right. :??

Marria
02-12-2009, 08:36 PM
Thanks Marria!!!!! That was a great link! THREE types of yarn overs techniques! I am gonna give it a try with the neckline short row shaping for my RF! :happydance:


[b]Over at Rav: I stumbled upon a cabled pullover hoodie (designed by the SYLVI designer) called Green Cables #28 Vogue Fall 2008 issue that I would love to do next! It has a GROUP, too. In rummaging around in my Stash Notebook at Rav, I couldn't see any yarn on hand that will work. It takes about 1400 yds of bulky (3st=1"). And although I have enough of the Rowan POLAR (winter white) for it, I'm not feelin' a hooded pullover in winter white. I'm envisioning a saturated color, like dk gold, dk green, tobacco brown!

Anyway, I'm on the Stash Train...and should continue to visit YARN JAIL and parole yarn who've served their time for my 2009 projects...:roflhard:...so maybe later Green Gables! (http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/28-vihervaara--huppari---greengable--hoodie) 2010 is right around the corner!




I've got that one in my queue. I fell in love with that pattern the second I saw it in the magazine.

laikabear
02-13-2009, 12:53 AM
Well, I did some math... :thud:

I am getting 21 sts to 4", not 16. Therefore, instead of the 39" listed in the schematics, my coat's length will be 29" if I don't make any modifications... That's a big difference!

Measuring down over my back, 39" hits around knee length (same as on the model). 29" actually hits mid butt. Um, NO! I'm thinking 35" would be nice. To add 6" to my 29", I will need to add 32 rows. Where in the fronts would you add rows, if you were going to do so? What about the backs?

I'm going to deal with this dilemma by casting on for a sock.
:teehee:

No, seriously! What should I do?

laikabear
02-13-2009, 12:55 AM
PS, I am glad to hear Blue is hanging in there and feeling houndy again! I did some volunteer work in NC with the bear hunting dogs and I saw some horrific injuries and incredible recoveries. There is no tougher beast than a hound dog!

ArtLady1981
02-13-2009, 02:14 AM
Well, I did some math... :thud:

I am getting 21 sts to 4", not 16. Therefore, instead of the 39" listed in the schematics, my coat's length will be 29" if I don't make any modifications... That's a big difference!

Measuring down over my back, 39" hits around knee length (same as on the model). 29" actually hits mid butt. Um, NO! I'm thinking 35" would be nice. To add 6" to my 29", I will need to add 32 rows. Where in the fronts would you add rows, if you were going to do so? What about the backs?

I'm going to deal with this dilemma by casting on for a sock.
:teehee:

No, seriously! What should I do?

You need to do some serious measuring in the armhole region. My coat came up short overall, and I'm sure my armhole region was also shorter, but for a shortie like me it didn't matter. My armpits are begin choked.

For yourself, the entire coat from hem to neck needs to be addressed.

Write out a line by line, play by play of the instructions for your LEFT FRONT size. See how many rows that will involve when you have accomplished all your decreases and such. I think my LF from hem to neck was 146 rows plus 11 short rows for the neckline shaping...total 157.

If "xx" stitches are involved from the armholes up to the neck...then you can calculate how much too short the armholes will be. Filter in the right amt of extra rows in there.

Then put the rest of the rows interspersed from the hem to the armholes.

When you're done with that LEFT FRONT, and do a mock try-on. If it seems to be fine in the armpits, and hits your leg where you like, you are 'good to go' for adding those extra rows in the BACK.
Warning: if you added 12 extra rows to the armholes and 20 rows from the hem to armpit, do the same for the BACK. 12 for the raglan area, 20 for the body.

Some gals over at the Rav SYLVI group are doing this. For the BACK, there are places that you can add 2 extra rows at a time without disturbing the peace! For example...this is just an example...when you've knit RS row 31 and WS 32...BEFORE literally going up the chart to rows 33 & 34, repeat rows 31 & 32. Call them 31a & 32a. Chart rows that are vines are easiest, but some gals were also adding rows to the leaf rows.

It will be challenging, but not impossible. Good for you that you did that math and checked your lengths compared to your bod! :thumbsup:

ArtLady1981
02-13-2009, 02:40 AM
Oh, I remember now...why I decided to make plain seed stitch FRONTS: I am going to make some sort of patch pocket. It sounds horrid, but I won't use them if they look cheesy.

And IF cheese is all I can get...then I will knit some flower petals and leaves and i-cord vines and tack them onto the fronts like this lady did:
http://www.ravelry.com/projects/livnletlrn/sylvi
The knitter's Rav name is livnletlrn.

These photos were on her blog that she linked in the Sylvi Group under the FO's. These flowers, vines and leaves were definitely knit separately and tacked on later. I've done the same thing with a couple of my own knits.

laikabear
02-13-2009, 03:44 AM
OK, so I was confused. I thought it wasn't okay to add rows in the armhole area. Was that just for the sleeves? I thought you had to match up any extra rows in that area with sleeves, fronts AND back!

If I can add some rows in the armhole area and some below, I can just do the same number above and below on both the fronts and the back.

I really like that blue Sylvi. It's my favorite so far. I like the design on both the front and the cuff, and I didn't realize it was put on after! So we can do both our fronts plain, and then tack on extras later if we want. :woohoo:

I noticed she did buttonhole version #3. It looks fine on the jacket in the photos, but in looking at your sample I definitely liked #2 better. I think I'd like it with the button band a little wider, even. But I don't want to go crazy :hair: with mods. I'm not very experienced and I think that the closer I stick to the pattern, the better off I'll be.

laikabear
02-13-2009, 05:29 AM
OK, based on the FRONT schematic, the front from the bottom UP TO the RAGLAN decreases is about 3/4 of the length of the front. The raglan decreases and neckline shaping make up the other 1/4. So for my 32 extra rows, I need to sneak 24 of them in the bottom portion, and 8 of them in the top portion.

QUESTION: Should I put all of my upper 8 rows in the RAGLAN decrease section, or should a couple go in the neckline shaping? I'm not familiar enough with pieced sweater construction to decide...

For the bottom 24 extra rows, I am planning to do the first 2 rows "six more times" instead of "4 more times" (ADD 4 rows), then the decreases every 10th row "6 more times" instead of "5" (ADD 10 rows), every 8th row "8 more times" instead of "7" (ADD 8 rows), and then I will add 2 rows to the "work even until" section. This should give me 148 rows instead of 124. (This only works for the small size, but if mine works out I can help someone else do the math if their row gauge is off and they are tall!)

Then, I will need to match up the extra rows in the BACK section. I'll do 24 in the lower portion and 8 in the upper portion.

I am still going to try to do the short rows as Artlady suggested. I don't want the buttonband BUMP!

AnnaElch
02-13-2009, 07:08 AM
Here is my update on Sylvi:

My yarn arrived on Tuesday, I had never before ordered from this factory -thing. I now had 1650g of 12-ply 100% Merino, color eggplant. So far so good, but the stuff is not twisted at all, it's just 12-ply running parallel!:oo: So I started swatching and realized it is very easy to enter split yarn hell with this.:evil:

On 8mm I have 13 st and 20.5 rows. I looked at the modifications for the larger size Sylvi on the TC-blog and held up a tape measure according to those numbers, and that would give me 8" of ease. Not exactly what I want.

I am not a big person as such, well how should I put it in English, well it's only my bust measurement that is big. So it would not make much sense to knit a 52" version.
I thought of abandoning this project altogether, but here I was stuck with 1650g of eggplant colored yarn.

I finally made up my mind to knit one sleeve as per largest size in the pattern, my row gauge would only matter much in the sleeve cap area, for almost everything before that is given in cm/inch and not in rows, I could just knit the sleeve cap as pattern and try it on. And that's what I did.

http://img13.imageshack.us/img13/7324/image00001mc7.jpg (http://img13.imageshack.us/my.php?image=image00001mc7.jpg)

I made it flat, cause magic loop just felt too awkward with 8mm needles. I don't even split yarn anymore, now that I have the hang of knitting this stuff!:woot:

http://img13.imageshack.us/img13/9599/image00002kv1.jpg (http://img13.imageshack.us/my.php?image=image00002kv1.jpg)

http://img13.imageshack.us/img13/4369/image00003cx6.jpg (http://img13.imageshack.us/my.php?image=image00003cx6.jpg)

I tried it on over another sweater and as far as I can see it fits very nicely. So if I understood it correctly, if the armhole depth made by the raglan shaping fits on the sleeve, it will also fit on front and back and I can just go ahead as the pattern says? I do not mind if the coat is somewhat shorter.

After this sleeve I realized that the fabric will be very stretchy and that the coat will probably grow in length with time.

Sorry for the long story.

laikabear
02-13-2009, 10:38 AM
Hi Anna!

Wow, you have made real progress. Your sleeves look great. I am glad to have some more photos from someone using COLOR! :happydance: Your stitching is so even!

How tall are you? At 20 sts/ 4" instead of 16 sts, your coat will be ~31" long instead of 39" if you do nothing. In the 41 and 44" sizes, about 1/3 of that length difference is in the raglan decrease / sleeve cap area (2.5"). Unless you are very short, I think that 2.5" will make a difference and pull on your underarm area...

What does everyone else think?

GinnyG
02-13-2009, 10:44 AM
My row gauge is way off too..... 20 instead of 16 :-( The coat is for my daughter who is short sho maybe it'll be ok.......


I have a question about the sleeve increase. Directions say to knit to one stitch before the marker M1R knit the stitch, SM M1L and knit next stitch (keeping in patter.

By adding two stitches does that mean that the stitch BETWEEN the 2 M1's will be "out of pattern?? ie P if it's a K or K if it's a P???

ArtLady1981
02-13-2009, 01:17 PM
You're right Maureen. If you lengthen the armhole region for the FRONTS and BACK, you'd have to correspondingly do the same for the armhole region of the SLEEVES.

That's why we try to avoid lengthening or shortening the armhole regions of the sleeves.

Well, I assume your sleeves are done. You could frog the sleeve caps to match the FRONTS and BACK.

Well, check out the chart and see where you can sneak in those 32 additional rows for just the body, not the armhole region!
Edited to add: oh, I didn't read far enough! Looks like you have a good plan for adding your additonal rows! You are doing exactly what the taller RAV Sylvi knitters did, too!

First though, how is the length of the sleeves? I mean, how does the sleeve cap seem to fit? Does it fall far enough below your armpit? We don't want a sleeve that cuts up right against our armpit. You might not have to re-do your sleeve caps if they're ok as is, and then you can put all the increases in the body of the FRONTS and BACK. I think that'd be ok, don't you, despite the proportions? 3/4 body 1/4 armhole

Sorry, I forgetted that you'd already finished your sleeves. :doh:

ArtLady1981
02-13-2009, 01:29 PM
My row gauge is way off too..... 20 instead of 16 :-( The coat is for my daughter who is short sho maybe it'll be ok.......


I have a question about the sleeve increase. Directions say to knit to one stitch before the marker M1R knit the stitch, SM M1L and knit next stitch (keeping in patter.

By adding two stitches does that mean that the stitch BETWEEN the 2 M1's will be "out of pattern?? ie P if it's a K or K if it's a P???

Ginny~ I hated the increase style suggested in the pattern! :wall:

So that is why I did this type of increase: work up to within 1 st of marker: works a k1f&b, slip marker, make another kf1&b.
Period. One increase, slip marker, one increase! Voila. And it will keep seed stitch synchronized properly!
ILcTB5hc0XM

Here is my results:
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3425/3251913930_b25344dc26.jpg?v=0

ArtLady1981
02-13-2009, 01:53 PM
Anna~ My yarn is just like yours! It is 12 wispy untwisted, unplied strands. Our kind of yarn is called 'single ply', meaning the spinner didn't take two piles of fiber and spin them one around the other 'plying them' as she spun the yarn.

Some yarns are 3 ply, 4 ply etc. But single plies are my favorite.

BUT, as you are finding out...they are very prone to the splits, and in those cases, I put away my KnitPicks OPTIONS and Harmony's, and pick up my Addi Turbos. Addis don't split the yarn. The tips are bulbous enough to glide around the yarn, not split it.

Your sleeve looks fabulous, and I love the color you chose!
Thanks for posting the nice photos for us!

http://www.emotihost.com/glass/2.gif

evona
02-13-2009, 02:36 PM
You're sleeves look great Anna. I have been sick with the flu so I haven't been knitting much over the last few days. I am about half way done with the first sleeve. I don't know how well I like it though. I'll have to post pictures to get some opinions soon.

AnnaElch
02-13-2009, 05:57 PM
I just dropped a tape measure down my back, and 31" is approx. in the middle of my thigh. That's alright for me, if it were knee length as in the pattern, it would probably make me look shorter anyway. I am about 1.63 meters tall.

I also laid the sleeve out on my arm again and as far as I can see the underarm bind off is about 2" below my armpit. It is a bit hard to envision it right now, while holding the sleeve together with the other arm. I guess I will see more clearly when I have one of the fronts done, and if I then find that the armhole is too short/small, I can still rip back and insert rows in the raglan shaping somehow, can't I?

Well I do not have that many knitting needle options, well not in 8mm anyway so I can't really switch to anything else. I just knit the whole thing a little bit slower, then it does not split so much anymore. It makes a really beautiful fabric, this yarn. I am so curious about how this coat will look and behave when it's done and worn.

laikabear
02-13-2009, 08:56 PM
Anna, you're about 5'4" (for us Americans). I think if you hold the 10 sts on holders up to the side of your neck and you have room between your armpit and the bound off sts, that you can at least give it a try with OUT adding addl. rows. If you get finished and do a try on and it's too tight in that region, you'll have a little frogging to do on each piece, but it won't be that far, as long as you're happy with a 31" length. Go for it!

Artlady, I did finish the sleeves but I wasn't 100% sure about them. When I pull the sts all the way up to my sideneck, they are a bit snug under the armpit. I think I should try to sneak some increases in that top portion. I was planning on possibly having to frog the sleeves a bit...

What do you think about the raglan decrease area VS. the neck short rows? :hmm: Should I keep all the extra rows in the raglan decrease area? Or should I try to add rows in the neck short row area too? I need to add 8 rows total in that region.

I ran out of yarn last night (well, only ran out of what I had WITH me at work) so I'm still in the first 30 rows of the LF.

Karina
02-14-2009, 05:02 AM
Well I have decided to bite the bullet and do my coat completely different. I am knitting it all in one piece. I cast on for two fronts and back at once and did a 3 inch border of seed stitch, will carry on with the seed stitch up the front for the button bands and do the coat in stockinette stitch with the cables on the back. One reason I decided to do it this way is because the 109 yarn is plied and a little like soft rope and creates a very holey look to the seed stitch which i did not like, so am hoping the stockinette stitch will be less holey. Doing it in one piece so I can get all the sides and sleeve decreases to match up because I do think I will have to increase the armhole area as my upper arms are big and would fit snug in the 47 inch size. Have never done anything in one piece before so I am sure I will be knitting and frogging quite a lot before this is done. but since winter is nearly over there is no rush to get it finished.

laikabear
02-14-2009, 06:37 AM
UGH! I made a mistake in my calculations...

I forgot to take into account that if I add an extra 10 rows with a decrease in it, then I WILL HAVE FEWER STS than the pattern calls for. :doh:

Luckily I realized it before I got too far. I had to frog 10 rows. So instead of Plan A, I am doing 12 repeats of a decrease every 10 rows. That will give me 12 decreased sts, but also the extra rows I needed in that section.

I haven't decided what to do about the raglan and neckline section yet. I am LEANING toward doing all the extra rows in the raglan shaping section (of course being careful not to add extra decreases now that my brain is back in my head). :frog:

I am going out of town for a few days on Sunday, and so I won't be working on Sylvi. It is a short flight to Vegas, and I think I am going to take a sock to work on. That should be conducive to getting a gin & tonic on the plane, and talking to my friend while knitting.

laikabear
02-14-2009, 06:38 AM
For those of us planning to knit a collar instead of a hood :waving:, would we pick up sts and add that at the very end, after the finishing? We don't need to add anything to the top of the fronts and back AS WE GO, right? :hmm:

laikabear
02-14-2009, 07:11 AM
I've found the little yarn markers for each 10 rows to be helpful... at first I was scoffing, but it IS hard to count seed stitch rows as compared to stockinette. I've also been using a stitch marker between the seed stitch and the button band so I remember to switch back and forth. I CAN fix mistakes a few rows down in seed stitch, but it is a PITA so I'd RATHER not!

I have had to add short rows to compensate for the buttonband growing at a faster rate than the seed stitch, too! My first ones were rows 5 & 13, and now I just hold up the knitting every so often to see if that buttonband is getting too long. When it does, I pop in a short row to let the seed stitch field catch up.

ArtLady1981
02-14-2009, 01:50 PM
Maureen~ If it were me, I'd leave those 12 neckline shaping short rows completely alone. I would add all extra rows below the neckline area.

Isn't it the pits that row gauge would screw us all up so much?
Row gauge isn't usually so critical.

But in the end, it will be worth it to work this through! It is definitely a learning experience!

I made 3 entire sleeves to get two good ones, and if you count all the frogging I did, I prolly made close to 4 sleeves! I re-knit the sleeve caps twice, and re-knit from cuffline to armpit once on a sleeve that I ended up scrapping and re-knitting entirely! Shees. :teehee: That is 4 sleeves! :eyes:

ArtLady1981
02-14-2009, 03:15 PM
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3440/3278684239_70852a2456.jpg?v=0
Finally done!

Was able to cast on and work 18 rows for the BACK last night!
It is slow going.

Here are two HEADS UP for the BACK:

Tip #1)
Remember, the FRONTS tell us to work a "foundation row"...which becomes the WS...then you are told to turn the work around RS facing, and work Row 1. The result is that the 'ropey edge" of the cast on is the RIGHT SIDE.
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3322/3279506604_5f10dda91c.jpg?v=0

Here's the rub: the directions for the BACK tell us to cast on 110 stitches, and then immediately begin working Chart Row 1. Huh? :??

If I had followed that advice, the ropey edge for the FRONTS would not match the purl-bump edge now created for the BACK.

MY REMEDY:
1) Cast on.
2) Turn the work and work Chart Row 2. (don't forget: even number rows are worked from left to right on the chart)
3) Turn the work, and begin knitting from Chart Row 1, up.

This put the 'ropey edge' on the public side.

I don't know why this small thing escaped the pattern directions. :??

PS: yes, it will add one extra row to the total length...but I don't think it will matter. It would be worse if the BACK's edges didn't match the FRONT's edges! :eyes: Especially where they meet along the side seams!

Tip #2)
Go slow. Sometimes I'm knitting a RS row, beginning with seed stitch...seeding up to the center region...stopping at, and looking at, a symbol...and saying to myself HUH? :?? What the devil?

So, I count the number of seed stitches up to the point in question...let's say 32...."hmmm...so there has to be 32 seeds worked first...then the next two st are the symbol..."

(Today, I'm going to draw some vertical lines within the seed parts of the chart, marking off every 10 seed stitches in width, so I don't have to count seed st on each side of the cable work ever again! I'll post a photo of my amended chart when I get it done. I thought I'd go nuts counting seed stitches over and over again. The colored "size lines" don't make it any easier!)

The BACK CHART is confusing at first. So, go slow, make sure what you're doing. Better to get it right than frog rows and rows. Even when working the resting rows (WS)...I had to count stitches to make sure that what I have on my row matches what the chart says I should have. Your WS resting row is kinda like your 'check up' row. If the WS resting row doesn't add up, then you made a mistake on the previous RS working row! Tink now, or sink later!

I'm going to begin installing lifelines in this baby, remembering to mark on the chart what row is just below the lifeline! :teehee:

The WS is the 'resting' row cuz it doesn't normally have any cable 'jobs' to do.
The RS is the 'working' row cuz you have to work the cable assignments.

laikabear
02-14-2009, 03:30 PM
Hey, thanks for the tip about the foundation row for the back. That's one less row I have to add! :)

Your front side looks great. :yay: Did you try to do a try-on? I have been loving having that left front growing longer and longer resting in my lap. I think I'm really going to love the coat when it's done.

Lifelines are always great, and after making lots of mistakes when knitting lace, I learned that the easiest way for me is to count each "resting" row. Yes, I really do count the sts on EVERY WS row. That way I know right away if I've made a boo-boo and can just tink back. Most patterns DON'T have the # of sts listed very often, so I usually have to figure it out for myself and write it in. That's how I realized my mistake on adding decrease rows before it got out of hand! If I ever get good enough to write a pattern, I'm going to post a stitch count EVERY time it changes, AND I'm going to remember this row gauge fiasco and try my best to use just length measurements, not row count (although I understand why she did it this way for this pattern, it sure is a PITA!)

Do you think if the patch pockets don't work out, we can add hidden pockets on the seam line? I'm thinking of knitting a pouch and just seaming it into place (I'm doing the seams per pattern). Would that work? I've never made a pocket before, but this coat HAS TO HAVE THEM!

ArtLady1981
02-14-2009, 03:53 PM
~Maureen! Yes, you're right! The side-seam slash (hidden) pockets would be great. A Rav knitter did so, and shared some good tips on how she did it.

If we did slash pockets, it would leave the right or left front free to put a vine, flower and leaf (like the blue Sylvi posted earlier)!

I tried to locate that Rav knitter again, to post a link to her project page, but didn't succeed in hunting her up. Rav software started acting up...and I couldn't open pages 7 & 8 in the FO Sylvi thread.

No, didn't do a try-on of all 4 pieces cuz there isn't anyting to clip the fronts to yet. Holding up the front to my bod was good enough to know where the length hits. I'm counting on the 'stretch factor' to lengthen my coat southward!

Here are two cropped photos of how I marked every 10 stitches in the seed areas surrounding the cable region. (Cropped to keep the designer happy!):

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3411/3279632378_a05bb2600b.jpg?v=0 http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3303/3279632642_0d9cc211e3.jpg?v=0

ArtLady1981
02-16-2009, 04:50 AM
Well I have decided to bite the bullet and do my coat completely different. I am knitting it all in one piece. I cast on for two fronts and back at once and did a 3 inch border of seed stitch, will carry on with the seed stitch up the front for the button bands and do the coat in stockinette stitch with the cables on the back. One reason I decided to do it this way is because the 109 yarn is plied and a little like soft rope and creates a very holey look to the seed stitch which i did not like, so am hoping the stockinette stitch will be less holey. Doing it in one piece so I can get all the sides and sleeve decreases to match up because I do think I will have to increase the armhole area as my upper arms are big and would fit snug in the 47 inch size. Have never done anything in one piece before so I am sure I will be knitting and frogging quite a lot before this is done. but since winter is nearly over there is no rush to get it finished.

Hi Karina~ I've seen a few SYLVI's over at Rav that are primarily st st, and they look just great! I think what makes SYLVI unique is the BACK design work, so really, however we want to modify the rest of the coat is fine! I like your 3" seed stitch border. That will give it a nice "frame" and has some nice presence! I also like the seed stitch continuing up the FRONTS for the buttonbands! That will present a very lovely "frame". I am glad you did a full 3" for the bottom! It needs some heft!

Good luck to you! I know you will do it! The coat itself is not all that hard. It's just a very simple structure. Very easy to modify.

Keep us posted! :happydance:

ArtLady1981
02-16-2009, 04:55 AM
I've also been using a stitch marker between the seed stitch and the button band so I remember to switch back and forth.

I had to do that, too! Each row being so long...the seed mantra gets a'rollin'...and you can totally forget to switch gears at the 6 st buttonband section!

That entire buttonband needs occasional short rows...however, I just did mine on rows 5, 9, 13, & 17 to prevent the buttonband BUMP. But, after you get the entire FRONTS done, you can see that the buttonbands are a little itty bit too wavy. Like, a few short rows woulda cleaned it up.
But, I wasn't thinking about it...so now I have to live with it.

I hope that scrunching the buttonbands during blocking will work some magic "shrink-to-fit"! :teehee:

AnnaElch
02-16-2009, 05:02 AM
So here is my left front, finished yesterday. This went surprisingly fast.

http://img12.imageshack.us/img12/5192/image00001fc4.jpg (http://img12.imageshack.us/my.php?image=image00001fc4.jpg)

I made it plain, without the buttonband, for I want to do those "chrocheted loops over buttons" thingies.

ArtLady1981
02-16-2009, 05:03 AM
Hi Anna~ Looks positively wonderful! :cheering: You have a very pretty seed stitch!

evona
02-16-2009, 04:26 PM
So I am way far behind everyone because of work, school, kids and the flu, but that's ok :) I did get to work on Sylvi yesterday quite a bit though.

Anna - your seed stitch is perfect. It looks great. I like the idea of the button loops.

Karina - you are brave :) I bet yours will come out beautiful.

GinnyG
02-16-2009, 05:30 PM
Not to worry evona, I too am dismally behind as well. I planned on spending most of the weekend on it, as it was my Firehouse weekend. Unfortunately we had one call after another and I didn't even get much sleepl.

slugmom
02-16-2009, 06:11 PM
I'm behind, too. Or not ahead, anyway :D

I have two cuffs knit, and one sleeve knit up about 25 rows.

ArtLady - Can you help talk me through the sleeve, since you're my (runty) height?? (5' 0") - did you say you didn't add any rows to compensate for row gauge *in the 'shoulder shaping' area*? Does that mean you knit from that armpit "bind off 7" to the shoulder just as written for your pattern size?

I am getting about 20 rows per 4" as I knit the sleeve in the round, so I guess that would effect the shoulder shaping quite a bit, as the chart says that portion (top of the sleeve) would be 11.25" from the one dot to the top? Mine would be 9" ?? But it works out okay to have a slightly shorter cap/connecting area and to do the length adjustments elsewhere?

Also, did you say you did all the *length* adjustment before the increase part, then knit the increase part as written?

If I measure ... (boy is measuring your arm awkward!)
my neck to shoulder: 5 inches
shoulder to elbow: 12 inches (down outside of arm to outside of elbow bend)
outer elbow bend to wrist bone: 9"
shoulder to wrist with arm hanging straight: 21" (phew, that SHOULD match, right?)
wrist at heel of hand to armpit: ~19"

I need to figure out when to start the increases on me, and whether or not to try to adjust the rows for the connecting zone.

sorry I don't know all the right terms. I had to look up raglan when people kept talking about it ~blush~ I thought it was a style of sweater until now. But I get it now, shoulders that go up to the neck to fit in to the body, rather than connecting *at* the shoulder. :)

ArtLady1981
02-16-2009, 10:54 PM
I'm behind, too. Or not ahead, anyway :D

I have two cuffs knit, and one sleeve knit up about 25 rows.

ArtLady - Can you help talk me through the sleeve, since you're my (runty) height?? (5' 0") - did you say you didn't add any rows to compensate for row gauge *in the 'shoulder shaping' area*? YES Does that mean you knit from that armpit "bind off 7" to the shoulder just as written for your pattern size? YES

I am getting about 20 rows per 4" (SAME HERE) as I knit the sleeve in the round, so I guess that would effect the shoulder shaping quite a bit, as the chart says that portion (top of the sleeve) would be 11.25" from the one dot to the top? Mine would be 9" ?? But it works out okay to have a slightly shorter cap/connecting area and to do the length adjustments elsewhere?

Also, did you say you did all the *length* adjustment before the increase part, then knit the increase part as written? YES

If I measure ... (boy is measuring your arm awkward!)
my neck to shoulder: 5 inches
shoulder to elbow: 12 inches (down outside of arm to outside of elbow bend)
outer elbow bend to wrist bone: 9"
shoulder to wrist with arm hanging straight: 21" (phew, that SHOULD match, right?)
wrist at heel of hand to armpit: ~19"

I need to figure out when to start the increases on me, and whether or not to try to adjust the rows for the connecting zone.

sorry I don't know all the right terms. I had to look up raglan when people kept talking about it ~blush~ I thought it was a style of sweater until now. But I get it now, shoulders that go up to the neck to fit in to the body, rather than connecting *at* the shoulder. :)

See my answers above in BLUE caps.

For short-armed me, I did do the caps just as written, with the exception of adding two additional 'even rows' just after the BIND OFF 7.

Remember, I made about 4 sleeves to come up with 2 good sleeves!

Our row gauge did affect the sleeve cap length, but for us, that should be OK. It was for me!

However, I still needed to take away quite a few inches between the cuff and where the increases begin. As soon as my increases were worked, I was ready to do one round even and then work the BIND OFF 7.

Let me know if you need any further clarification. No question is bothersome. Please don't be shy.

ArtLady1981
02-16-2009, 11:12 PM
Hi there all Sylvi Knitters! :waving:

No one should ever feel they are behind! Everyone knits at their own pace, and as their personal life allows! So, keep knitting away! You are right ON TIME! I admire all of you!

XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX

I have worked Chart Rows 1-74 for the BACK. Made one modification regarding those dang bobbles.

I did not make them as a part of the row. I just did seed stitch over all the bobble areas. After I was done with all the rows that woulda had bobbles, I made 3 darling bobbles independently, using Nickie Epstein's bobble pattern from "Knitted Embellishments" (http://www.amazon.com/Nicky-Epsteins-Knitted-Embellishments-Appliques/dp/188301039X/ref=pd_bbs_sr_1?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1234840449&sr=8-1). I secured the 3 bobbles through the coat using their two tails. I tied them into bows on the back, just until after blocking the BACK. I will remove them before blocking the BACK. Then I will attach them permanently.

Why did I make mine independently? Because I didn't like the loosey-goosey appearance of the 'knitted-in' bobbles, and I didn't like how the bobbles were affecting the surrounding area. By making them separately, I could use a US10.5 needle, and make them nice and neat and tidy.

Here they are:
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3431/3285887785_9726d7a791.jpg?v=0

And here is how they are temporarily bow-tied in the back:
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3104/3285885205_b4968ed78e.jpg?v=0

Here are Chart Rows 1-74:
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3512/3285920391_b0f1bcf1cc.jpg?v=0
My coat isn't this yellow, but the evening lighting affects the camera.

Here is how I am keeping track of sections of 10 seed stitches on each side of the complex, centered cable region.
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3343/3285884667_ea51986e73.jpg?v=0
Critical to keep track! Count stitches on both the RS and the WS. Unexpected things happen along both RS and WS rows.
On the WS, you don't always just knit the knits, and purl the purls. So take care!

Marria
02-17-2009, 12:37 AM
ArtLady, I am in awe of your skills. Awe. :notworthy:

luvmykid28
02-17-2009, 12:58 AM
:notworthy: ArtLady, I am in awe of your skills. Awe. :notworthy:

I'm not participating in this KAL, however i have been watching daily.
OMG Artlady, when I saw your pic, my jaw hit the desk. I want to be like you when I grow up.:heart: :heart: :heart: Thank you for sharing your knowledge.:notworthy:

evona
02-17-2009, 12:58 AM
Thanks for the bobble tip Artlady! I think I will be doing my bobbles like that too. I like the way your bobbles came out much better.

And thanks everyone for the inspiring pick me and letting me know I am not behind :) :muah:

Debbie
02-17-2009, 08:03 AM
I'm watching and learning, too .... along with the 5,000 other KHers reading these posts! You are all making such beautiful coats!!

ArtLady1981
02-17-2009, 12:55 PM
When time comes for you to do your bobbles: if you have a hard time finding a suitable bobble formula, please message me (PM) and I will send you a good bobble formula. :thumbsup:

ArtLady1981
02-17-2009, 02:24 PM
Here is a photo of an adorable pocket that knitwitmom (http://www.ravelry.com/projects/knitwitmom/sylvi) shared in the Ravelry SYLVI group!

http://www.ravelry.com/projects/knitwitmom/sylvi

Here is how she did it (I modified her wording for clarity):

I cast on 6 stitches for the pocket’s top ‘rim’.
I used the same instructions for the left front edge (k3, p2, k1) until it was long enough for me to pick up 18 stitches along the edge like you do for the sleeve cuff. BO.
Then pick up 18 stitches from the pocket rim and knit down from there.
I did the bobbles on rows 10 and 12 .
Begin decreasing to round the bottom corners of the pocket (1 stitch each edge) on rows 24 and 25. BO.
For the flowers, I used the small flower pattern but used a size 8 needle so that the flowers would be a bit smaller to fit on the pocket.

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
I'll make my bobbles separately. I'll also tinker with a different pocket top rim. I don't think I'll personally make a rim separately that needs binding off, and then picking up stitches to knit down for the actual pocket. I'll make my pocket as a whole unit, and wider.

But we do get the idea! However you make your pocket, adding the flower and bobbles is adorable, isn't it?

princessbonniejane
02-17-2009, 06:05 PM
I found a hat to go with it!
http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/flower-hat-9

Kithic
02-17-2009, 07:20 PM
That is looking fabulous, Artlady! I prefer the look of your bobbles too. I finally cast on for my left front last night, but I think I am going to frog back a little and add some extra short rows due to the button band growth issue.

ArtLady1981
02-18-2009, 06:49 AM
FYI: There is an error in the chart for the BACK. It is a small error, and you'd all prolly catch it like I did.

RS CHART ROW #123...the ssk decrease is missing from the end of the row. I mean, the chart symbol \ for the ssk is missing. But you can tell by the next rows above that you should work the ssk at the end of row 123, just as you worked the K2Tog at the beginning of the row for the raglan shaping.

I'd get out your charts right now and take care of it.

slugmom
02-18-2009, 12:49 PM
I have a sleeve measurement question ...

looking at the increases for my size (L), it looks like they cover 25 rows, which at 4 rows per inch (pattern gauge) would be 6.25 inches in length. Then you do the BO and start the shoulder shaping, which looks like for the L is 46 rows and 11.5 inches.

Now since I'm getting 5 rows per inch, I would only get 5" of length thru the increases and 9.2" for the shoulder shaping.

If I knit 11 inches pre-increase (as the pattern states) then at the end of increasing I would have 11 + 5 = 16" sleeve to under my arm. Then adding the additional 9.2" shoulder shaping, the sleeve length from neck to wrist would end up being ~27.5"

When I measured my arm, from wrist to armpit was about 19" if I went snug up to my armpit. Measuring from neck over shoulder down to wrist was about 23"

would a 27.5" sleeve from shoulder to cuff be too long?

But if I were to shorten it before the increases, that would make the armpit a lot lower (closer to the elbow) - already (by my calculations, I have only knit about 8") it's 3" down from my armpit.

I've never knit a coat or sweater, so I have no idea where the roominess falls. Does my projected measurements (16" to armpit, plus shoulder shaping for a 27.5" total length arm) sound like they'll fit okay when it's all put together?

I hope you could follow all that. I'm trying to calculate things in a spreadsheet but I keep getting mixed up with all the different measurements and the two gauge columns and some parts of the pattern being in inches and some being in rows ...

ArtLady1981
02-18-2009, 01:34 PM
If your neck to wrist measurement is 23", and if the sleeve itself measures 27.5"...the cuff will fall just below the middle of your fingers. And, allowing for the fact that they say this coat stretches southward, those sleeves could end up longer than that when worn. The short answer: yes, 27.5" is too long.

I know you are thinking that by shortening the sleeve in the pre-increase region will pull down the armpit area.

Not so. It will pull UP the cuff from mid-finger area.

Why?

The raglan area is attached to the coat. The 9.2" length of the raglan area dictates where the armpit is located.

The shorter pre-increase region cannot pull the armpit down. The raglan area, which includes the BO7 row, determines where the armpit is. The only thing that will draw up the BO7 is by removing rows from the raglan area.

You stated a measurement of 23" from neck to wrist. I hope you measured from neck over shoulder down the outside of the arm to wrist.

Do you want your sleeve to stop at your wrist bone? cover your wrist bone?, extend 1"? 2"? past your wrist bone...this is the length your sleeve should be.

I went for 2" past wrist bone. Not one smidge more.

Shorten your sleeves pre-increase. If the directions state work begin increases when the sleeve is 11.5"...then you will start your increases sooner.

slugmom
02-18-2009, 01:58 PM
... The short answer: yes, 27.5" is too long.

I know you are thinking that by shortening the sleeve in the pre-increase region will pull down the armpit area.

Not so. It will pull UP the cuff from mid-finger area.

Why?

The raglan area is attached to the coat. The 9.2" length of the raglan area dictates where the armpit is located.

...

You stated a measurement of 23" from neck to wrist. I hope you measured from neck over shoulder down the outside of the arm to wrist.

Thank you SO much - It helps me to understand the *why* as well as the *what* :) and what you said makes so much sense!

:muah:

I will have my daughter help me re-measure my neck-shoulder-arm-wrist, just to be sure.

So what I want is the {neck-over-shoulder-past-elbow-to-outer-wrist-plus-1"-or-2"} measurement minus the {9.2" shoulder and 5" increases} (14.2")? -- right?

ArtLady1981
02-18-2009, 02:10 PM
Slugmom~

I dug out my notes for the Left Sleeve and here is what I wrote:

PU39 along top of cuff; join in the round, place marker.
Continue seed rounds til entire sleeve incl cuff measures 10". (40 rounds)
Rnd 41: begin increases each side of marker
Add'l inc rnds: every 6th rnd 4x's more: Rnds 47, 53, 59, 65 (49 st)
Continue even til 15" (67 rnds total)
SHAPE CAP BEGINS as follows:
Rnd 68: BO7 (42st)
Rows 69-75: even
Row 76: begin cap decreases> dec 1 st ea end. (40st)
Add'l dec rows>every 4th row 8x's: Rows 80, 84, 88, 92, 96, 100, 104, 108 (24st)
Add'l dec rows> EOR 7x's: Rows 110, 112, 114, 116, 118, 120, 122 (10st)
Put 10 st on waste yarn.

I always write out/lay out, a 'work order' (like the above) prior to knitting the sleeve. As I knit along, I circle rows/rnds as I accomplish them.

By using the yarn row markers I always know what row I'm on.
No guesswork. I'm bad at clicking my row counter. I try to use it, but when in doubt, I can always fall back on my yarn row markers to tell me where I am REALLY at.

ArtLady1981
02-19-2009, 05:25 PM
Well, almost done...it needs severe blocking to shape things!

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3525/3293002117_3bacc78469.jpg?v=0
My yarn markers are still in place. Will remove them later today.

I HAVE AN ISSUE: the space up by the top set of bobbles doesn't seem large enough to accommodate the flower petals. :??

I posted a question in the Rav Sylvi group: how long are the flower petals from tip to tip.

I've made a dozen flower petals so far, and frogged most of them as being either too small or maybe too large. :shrug:

Anyway, last night laying in bed, just before the land of "nod"...I came up with a different way to work the decreases on the petals. I don't like the look of the decreases worked on the end two stitches. I tried 3 petals with the decreases on each side of the middle stitch, a K2Tog and a SSK, but don't like that either. My new trial will be working (K2Tog or SSK) on the 2nd & 3rd stitch in from the very edge.

Anyway, 5 itty bitty petals are blocking now, they seem like they will fit the space by the top set of bobbles, but they seem waaaaaay smaller in appearance than the model coat. :eyes: I've even looked into a different type of flower. No luck so far.
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3079/3250991177_7afbbb5aef.jpg?v=0

Karina
02-19-2009, 07:13 PM
Artlady - It looks to me like the flower is overlapping the seam so maybe it will work fine once the coat is seamed.

ArtLady1981
02-19-2009, 11:27 PM
I found a flower petal formula that I like very much.
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3470/3293656097_586029b462.jpg?v=0
This flower petal is made with a US 10.5. The 'gauge needle' for the
sweater was a US11. The US11 turned out petals that were icky, stitches uneven and wonky. Probably due to the type of yarn I used. I also made the petal edges 'garter', that is to say, each edge stitch was "knits" on RS & WS. I decreased using SSK at the beginning of the row on the 2nd & 3rd stitches in, and K2Tog at the end of the row, but the 2nd & 3rd stitches from the very end.

Don't know if the petals are too fat.:?? I increased til the row had 15 st. Could maybe have quit with 13. What do you think? I overlapped the petals for a trial, but prolly won't do that permanently. Does this flower look too gigantic on my sweater? Should the flower petals be slightly slimmer and slightly shorter?

The flowers are a 'eye catcher', that is to say, they are the visual impact for the BACK, with the vines and leaves being secondary. So I want the flowers to be 'right'.

If I stick with this one flower, I will make the middle flower smaller, and the top flower smaller still. They will gradually get smaller. Not drastically, but slightly.

But, please give me your opinion! Do these flower petals need to be made slightly smaller in width and/or length?

I need feedback! Help!

PS: I truly do not mind frogging all these petals and re-knitting. :knitting:

This is a trial "pinning":
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3374/3294480584_2f8245de5d.jpg?v=0
Here is the model SYLVI:
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3638/3294512962_3415a7afb0.jpg?v=0

Marria
02-19-2009, 11:31 PM
From your photo, I think the petals look good, Dollyce. I think the size is right compared to the leaves. The flowers kind of remind me of poinsettias.

ArtLady1981
02-19-2009, 11:44 PM
BTW, here is some feedback from the Rav group:

One knitter said her small petals were 2.5-3" tip to tip.
Her large petals were 3.75-4" tip to tip.

Another knitter said her small petals were 3".
Her large petals were 5". She used a US10 for the coat, but used a US8 for the very top flower so that it would fit the space better.

I would use the same needle size for all three, just change the pattern in the amount of increases, and of course, the number of increases also lengthens the petal too, cuz it takes more rows to decrease up to the tip of the petal.

I have written down my flower petal formula, and if anyone wants it, I will post it. It's my own, so no trouble from the designer. :thumbsup:

evona
02-20-2009, 12:29 AM
I think your flower petals look perfect Artlady. I would like the petal formula :)

Karina
02-20-2009, 03:51 AM
I love your flower Artlady, and I like that they overlap a little because that is what flowers do in real life. Yes please post your instructions.

AnnaElch
02-20-2009, 08:57 AM
Flower feedback, right.

Ok, this is just my humble opinion. I personally think that the petals are a bit too wide, not much, just a bit.:roll:
Another thing that sprang into my eye was the way they were put there, which you probably will change anyway, because this was just a trial version. I think it is important that one can still see the vine the flowers grow from, after the petals are attached. If this vine is completely covered the flower appears like a separate thing, not connencted to the cable design. Then it does not create the impression of growing from the cable.
As I said this is just how I see things, important is what you like, because you will wear it and you have the life thing infront of you, a picture is fine, but everything does look and feel different in real life.

ArtLady1981
02-20-2009, 09:25 AM
I measured my flower petals tip to tip last night, and they measured 7"!!! The Ravelry Sylvi knitters were getting about 4.5"-5" tip to tip measurement.

So, mine were obviously too large, even though I liked their appearance fine.

Based on that, last night I tinkered around some more, and with a few very minor adjustments, I now have a larger flower petal that is just 5.5". And a smaller flower petal that is just 4.38".

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3557/3294393695_bc73c1c120.jpg?v=0

Smaller flower petals for the shoulder area:
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3443/3295218330_d1df57637d.jpg?v=0

Larger flower petal for the lower two areas:
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3623/3294394359_5d2b594ce7.jpg?v=0

Closeup of larger petal:
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3540/3295217642_c588b5187e.jpg?v=0

And here are the 5.5" Plan B flower petals, pinned to the coat, and these are keepers! :happydance: Notice, they're slightly shorter & narrower and don't hog so much space, and don't cover over the vines.
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3576/3295219824_4a52c4cb07.jpg?v=0

Here are the Plan A, 7" flower petals (not going to use):
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3374/3294480584_2f8245de5d.jpg?v=0

Thanks for your input everyone!

I'll post the flower petal patterns later today! I finally have two winners!

I have seen some really messy looking flower petals over at Rav. Especially around the edges.

BTW: I re-worked some slightly smaller bobbles to go with the slightly smaller petals.

AnnaElch~ instead of (knit 1 row, purl 1 row) twice....I did (knit 1 row, purl 1 row) only ONCE, and with a US 10.5 needle rather than the US11 gauge needle. This made a more petite bobble.

AnnaElch
02-20-2009, 09:38 AM
Now, the petals are gorgeous!:yay:

ArtLady1981
02-20-2009, 03:14 PM
Large flower petal:
Using 1 size smaller than my gauge needle, I cast on with a US10.5.
CO3
Odd numbered rows: WS
Even numbered rows: RS

Row 1: purl across
Row 2: K1 YO K1 YO K1 (5st)
Rows 3, 5, 7, 9: K1, purl to last st, K1
Row 4: K2 YO K1 YO K2 (7st)
Row 6: K3 YO K1 YO K3 (9st)
Row 8: K4 YO K1 YO K4 (11st)
Rows 10-17: work st st even, working the edge stitch as previously set forth

Decreasing Rows
Row 18, 20, 22: K1, SSK, knit across to last 3, then K2Tog, K1 (5st remain after Row 22)
Row 23: work as Row 3
Row 24: K1, SSK, K2Tog (3st)
Row 25: K1, P2
Row 26: Slip 1, K2Tog, psso
Fasten off

Small flower petal:
CO3
Row 1: purl across
Row 2: K1 YO K1 YO K1 (5st)
Rows 3, 5, 7: K1, purl to last st, K1
Row 4: K2 YO K1 YO K2 (7st)
Row 6: K3 YO K1 YO K3 (9st)
Rows 8-13: work st st even, working the edge stitch as previously set forth

Decreasing Rows
Row 14, 16: K1, SSK, knit to last 3...end row w/ K2Tog, K1 (5st)
Row 17: work as Row 3
Row 18: K1, SSK, K2Tog (3st)
Row 19: K1, P2
Row 20: Slip 1, K2Tog, psso
Fasten off

Wash, rinse & BLOCK all petals before attaching to your blocked BACK. Leave til bone dry. Don't rush them. This will tame the 'curl' of the petals and make for a much easier application and a nicer appearance overall.

The large petal measures 5.5" tip to tip and 3" width.
The small petal measures 4.5" tip to tip and 2.5" width.
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3557/3294393695_bc73c1c120.jpg?v=0
These measurements are right off the needle, slightly stretched and pinned to shape. Blocking can or may increase these measurements a little.

NOTE:
You may or may not like the 'edge stitch' for your petals.
My pattern gives directions that create an 'edge stitch'.

PLAN B: If you want to eliminate that look, simply PURL across all WS rows. Continue to work the decreases 1 stitch in from the edge. This creates simple outside edges that are easier to tack onto the coat.)

Karina
02-20-2009, 03:19 PM
I still prefer plan A, I would just rearrange them slightly so you can see a bit more of the stem the flower grows from.

Karina
02-20-2009, 03:21 PM
Artlady could you post instructions for the plan A petals, Please. Thanks

ArtLady1981
02-20-2009, 03:47 PM
Pattern for EXTRA LARGE flower petal:
Using 1 size smaller than my gauge needle, I cast on with a US10.5.
CO3
Odd numbered rows: WS
Even numbered rows: RS

Row 1: purl across
Row 2: K1 YO K1 YO K1 (5st)
Rows 3, 5, 7, 9, 11: K1, purl to last st, K1
Row 4: K2 YO K1 YO K2 (7st)
Row 6: K3 YO K1 YO K3 (9st)
Row 8: K4 YO K1 YO K4 (11st)
Rows 10 & 12: K1, M1, knit across row, end M1, K1 (15st)
Rows 13-19: work st st even, working the edge stitch as previously set forth

Decreasing Rows
Row 20, 22, 24, 26, 28: K1, SSK, knit across to last 3, then K2Tog, K1 (5st remain after Row 28)
Row 29: work as Row 3
Row 30: K1, SSK, K2Tog (3st)
Row 31 (WS): K1, P2
Row 32: Slip 1, K2Tog, psso
Fasten off

This petal is 7" tip to tip, 4.5" width, unblocked.
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3470/3293656097_586029b462.jpg?v=0

ArtLady1981
02-20-2009, 03:54 PM
Here's a wild and crazy idea!

Use the XL petal for bottommost flower.
Use the Lrg petal for the mid-section flower.
Use the Sm petal for the shoulder flower.

Not all flowers on the same bush are exactly the same size.
Depends on how much sun each gets, and the exact age of each flower. Most flowering plants bloom their flowers over a few days. All of them don't bloom exactly at 10 am on May 2! :teehee:

Wanda Witch
02-20-2009, 05:25 PM
That, to me, sounds like 'the' winner; large, medium and small as they climb up the back of the coat. They are so lovely, you, ArtLady, are remarkable. Oh, and thanks.

mimi
02-20-2009, 07:01 PM
I am not in the Sylvia KAL, but I follow this thread daily just to pick up hints from Artlady which I apply to my own knitting. This is a perfect example of your creativity. Oh, and it is reassuring to know that I am not the only one who has to knit and reknit things until I am satisfied (with the exception of the scrubbies!)

ArtLady1981
02-20-2009, 07:57 PM
Enclosed is a bobble recipe that I changed and tweaked,
therefore I can post it for you.

Each revised little bobble is 3/4" across its top. I went smaller cuz my flower petals are a bit smaller now.

Here is a photo of the new, smaller bobbles tacked onto the end of the stem with the larger, original bobbles laying beneath. I haven't frogged the larger bobbles. I might use them on a hat of some sort.
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3132/3296480416_523827b324.jpg?v=0


Recipe for the smaller 3/4" bobble:
1) Cast on 1 st, leaving a 9" tail (I used US10.5 Nickel OPTIONS )
2) (k1f&b) twice, k1 (5 sts)
3) Knit 1 row, Purl 1 row
4) Next row, k2tog/k1/k2tog (3 st)
5) Next row, slip 1, p2tog, psso (1 st)
6) fasten off, leaving a 9" tail
7) flip the bobble WS up, like a little upside down turtle
8) using the 9" cast on tail, catch the edge of every other stitch around the west edge of the bobble
9) using the 9" bind off tail, catch the edge of every other stitch around the east edge of the bobble
10) with the tails now being at 12 0'clock and 6 o'clock again, having switched places of whose at the north and who's at the south, cinch up both tails, forcing the bobble into a tight little ball, tweaking your bobble to perfection if needed, using more of the tails
11) tie tightly, using remaining tails to secure through the BACK after it's blocked. Don't try to block your bobbles, they'll take 100 yrs to dry!

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3651/3295654221_a4c26912e2.jpg?v=0

Revised, smaller bobble: 3/4" wide across the crown
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3600/3296480852_5c3ea9c960.jpg?v=0


Original bobble: 7/8" almost 15/16" wide
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3466/3295655605_b7c9840147.jpg?v=0

Marria
02-20-2009, 08:33 PM
I like the idea of the mixing the sizes of the petals. I still think your big petals look good though. :) Thanks for posting the patterns.

bikergalknits
02-20-2009, 10:09 PM
You are a genius !!!! I am so glad to have you leading and teaching us....almost makes me want to move across the US to your neck of the woods....almost...lol
:hug:

Wanda Witch
02-20-2009, 10:18 PM
You are a genius !!!! I am so glad to have you leading and teaching us....almost makes me want to move across the US to your neck of the woods....almost...lol
:hug:

I'd move to ArtLady's neck-of-the-woods area in a heartbeat if possible. But, alas, fear we cannot right now. Ho hum. :pout:

Marria
02-20-2009, 10:59 PM
I'd move to ArtLady's neck-of-the-woods area in a heartbeat if possible. But, alas, fear we cannot right now. Ho hum. :pout:

I used to live in Seattle, and I really miss it. :cry:

ArtLady1981
02-20-2009, 11:45 PM
http://bestsmileys.com/umbrellas/5.gifSeattle's nickname is THE EMERALD CITY! http://bestsmileys.com/umbrellas/1.gif

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2048/2284120829_f3d32ab9b6.jpg?v=0

Marria
02-21-2009, 12:10 AM
Awwww, Artlady, don't make me miss it even more!

I lived about 2 blocks away from Lake Union in the Eastlake neighborhood. I couldn't afford to keep living there after I got laid off back in 2002, though, so I came back to Idaho in 2003. I really love Idaho too, but I so miss the greenness in Seattle.


OK, I'll stop hijacking the thread now. :)

ArtLady1981
02-21-2009, 04:12 PM
Well, here is Plan A POCKET: 6.5" x 7'5" with 3" cuff folded over.
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3324/3297544713_667243a5c7.jpg?v=0

And here is how it looks laying on the LEFT FRONT:
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3405/3298370092_32164e9618.jpg?v=0

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3619/3298369510_4622e4b889.jpg?v=0

If I keep it, I'll stitch it into place where it is most convenient to use!

Here is the recipe.
PATCH POCKET, PLAN A:

Using the gauge needle, CO 21. Work 52 rows of seed.
BO on row 53. Pocket is 6.5" x 10" flat. Fold 3" cuff over,
and sew button through all thicknesses.

Notice, my "pocket cuff" has the ropey cast-on edge facing the public side.
I like that, it matches the ropey edges of the hem.

I may or may not use this pocket. The deal breaker will be if the weight of this pocket can be supported by the loosish seed stitch of the FRONTS. I don't want it to pull the FRONTS southward, as I've read that this loosish seed stitch pulls south in the first place.

Of course, all the pieces photographed are unblocked.

Whaddya think? Honest opinions here. I need feedback!
Is this pocket too huge? I strived for deep pockets for their
usefulness in keeping my hands warm and covered.
The pocket is 7.5" deep from top of cuff to the bottom.
But, it doesn't HAVE TO be this deep, or this wide.

Do you like the cuff? I was thinking the style or 'look' counterbalances the sleeve cuffs.

There are some Rav knitters who put pretty flowers on their plain patch pockets. That is another option.

I dunno. I need feedback. :??

My pocket does not hint, or lead us to the explosion of detail work that will be seen when I turn around. Should I have incorporated some kind of flowerette on the pocket instead of the button & cuff?

I value your opinion. :thumbsup:

laikabear
02-21-2009, 06:04 PM
Hmm, I think that, while the pocket is neatly done and does match the style of the cuffs, it is too plain. I think the fronts need something with some hint of the design on the back.

I think your back looks great and the flowers and bobbles look great also. I'm going to use the bobble and flower designs you provided when I get there. THANKS!

I'm strongly thinking of onseam, hidden pockets, with maybe a flower or 2 on the front - like the ones on the light blue Sylvi where the knitter used glass beads instead of bobbles. I don't recall if hers had pockets or not, but I think any coat should have them. BUT, I'm not there yet.

What did you decide about hood vs. collar?

I haven't done doodly squat on my Sylvi, I've been on a business trip and only took along a sock. I'm hoping to pick up where I left off (the left front) tonight!

Marria
02-21-2009, 07:22 PM
I like that, it matches the ropey edges of the hem. I do too! :thumbsup:


I may or may not use this pocket. The deal breaker will be if the weight of this pocket can be supported by the loosish seed stitch of the FRONTS. I don't want it to pull the FRONTS southward, as I've read that this loosish seed stitch pulls south in the first place. I think that is an excellent point. If I were making Sylvi with pockets, I probably would do knitted in pockets. (And I didn't even think of this until now)...or I would probably not do the pockets at all. But that's just me. I'm not a big fan of patch type pockets on knitted garments, for the most part.

Of course, all the pieces photographed are unblocked.

Whaddya think? Honest opinions here. I need feedback!
Is this pocket too huge? I strived for deep pockets for their
usefulness in keeping my hands warm and covered.
The pocket is 7.5" deep from top of cuff to the bottom.
But, it doesn't HAVE TO be this deep, or this wide.

I don't think the pocket's too big, but will you be able to place them in a spot on the sweater that would look nice and proportional and that is practical for putting your hands in your pockets? You don't want to have to hunch forward to put your hands in the pockets. ;) Where you plan to place them would affect how big you should make them, I would think.
Do you like the cuff? I was thinking the style or 'look' counterbalances the sleeve cuffs. The cuff is great! I really like it.

There are some Rav knitters who put pretty flowers on their plain patch pockets. That is another option.

My pocket does not hint, or lead us to the explosion of detail work that will be seen when I turn around. Should I have incorporated some kind of flowerette on the pocket instead of the button & cuff? If I were doing this, I'd want the spotlight to be on the flowers in the back, so I'd make them plain.



Hi ArtLady--I quoted you and added my thoughts in bold.

Wanda Witch
02-21-2009, 07:52 PM
I love the edge of the pocket, ArtLady, but personally I think a flower, in lieu of the flap and button, as in post No. 213 which was done by 'knitwitmom,' would coordinate better with the work on the back. I have to say though I would prefer a smaller version of the flower than the one pictured in No. 213. Would you only have one pocket or two? I am far from there but find this to be quite a decision.

divagirl
02-21-2009, 08:46 PM
I have been following along even though I have not started Sylvi yet... you are all some crazy talented knitters!!

My yarn came today :woohoo: KP Cadena. I have already done a gauge swatch with some leftovers from another project and it is spot on with size 11 needles. I thought the original cuff was ok and I liked the turned up seed stitch cuff, but I realized today that I would really like to do a bell sleeve. Artlady, do you have any suggestions on how to do it? I will do the turned up cuff if I can't make it work.

ArtLady1981
02-22-2009, 02:07 AM
Thanks for all the great feedback!!!

First, I'll answer Wanda: :waving: I would make two pockets, for sure. I think what I'll do tonight is make that pocket from post #213 that knitwitmom did. Yeah, her petals were way too big for the pocket, or the pocket was too small for the petals. I have 5 little itty bitty flower petals that are done blocking. They were my first attempt. You haven't even seen them. They are 2" wide x 3.25" tip to tip. At the widest part they were just 7 stitches wide, or, 2 yarn over increase rows. I could make up some itty bitty bobblettes and an i-cord stem and pin the works on a patch pocket. Also might try curving the bottom edge into a U shape.

Marria! :waving: If I do keep the concept of the patch pocket...I would do what you mentioned. BEFORE sewing them into place, I'd make darn sure that I could actually put my hands into them easily, and also make sure that position still looks good.

Maureen! :waving: You do have a good point. I was thinking to myself: while I like the FRONT of the coat with the cuffed sleeves and the cuffed pockets...when I turn around it's like a TOTALLY DIFFERENT coat is happening! Like...picture this...coming towards someone you have a polka dot red coat, and walking away you have a blue striped coat! Like, totally on a different planets! Oh cripes, am I talking myself out of my pocket? :pout: Well, onwards and upwards. I also have to consider the side seam slash pockets. That style of pocket would allow me to plant some flowers and leaves on the LEFT FRONT like Debbie (Rav name: livnletlrn) did:
http://www.ravelry.com/people/livnletlrn

I decided to make the standup collar. The type that you knit for about 3", make increases over several rows to allow it to fan out, and knit another 3"...bind off...turn the top 3" down to the inside and tack into place where the 'pick up' seam is.

Divagirl! :waving: We're so happy you're here with us! The more the merrier! Glad that your yarn came! You are right behind us! So, come on girl! :teehee: Now, to answer your question: A bell sleeve sounds adorable. You might have to tinker a bit with the actual number stitches to cast on...but whatever amt you start with has to be decreased to 39 st somewhere in the forearm area cuz soon after that, those sleeve increases need to begin. But, I'd cast on, lets say 51 (that's 12 extra which would make the bell 4" wider than the sleeve's 39 st)...and decrease 1 stitch each side of the st. marker every other round. Just for starters. I'm assuming you will make your sleeves in the round like we did. Try that formula plus knit some of the 39st for the sleeve, put the stitches on waste yarn and try it on and see it the bell sleeve looks right to you.
I wish I'd thought of that. I like the idea of a bell sleeve a LOT! Darn. I'd have loved a bell sleeve! Well, I can live through you, can't I? :wink:

So, off I go now...to make another patch pocket with curved bottom edges, an i-cord stem and some bobblettes!

Next, I might try making a pocket lining with some sock weight angora blend yarn (same color). The Raveler that made side seam inset pockets made them out of a paisley fabric and I don't want to do that. I would want my inset side seam pocket linings to be knitted.

I also saw an adorable edging in Nickie Epstein's book. It is about 2" wide...you knit it to about (in this case) 6" long and bind off. Then you pick up stitches along the bind off edge and knit the patch pocket to whatever depth you like. I might try it. I haven't rummaged around in her ON THE EDGE, OVER THE EDGE and BEYOND THE EDGE books yet either. I have all 3 and I can hear them calling me.

Okie dokie then. I'm off! Thanks again for all the help!
I am still waiting for AnnaElch to weigh in! :wink: