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View Full Version : My little ring fell off my needle....


tjdanzig
01-16-2010, 11:45 PM
So, I have no idea where I started knitting. I'm knitting my first hat, had my first lesson and my teacher put a tiny ring on where we started and we were to transfer that ring over each time we made it around the circle. Well...I guess when I put my knitting down the ring fell off, I continued knitting, noticed the ring wasn't there and I have no idea where I started. There has to be a reason for this ring, so I'm thinking I need to figure out where I started, so can anyone guide me on how to figure out how to do this?

Thank you VERY much for any help.

Tina

suzeeq
01-17-2010, 01:06 AM
The stitch marker is to mark where the beginning of the round is. You can find it again by looking for the stitch where the tail is from casting on. Follow the line of sts up to the needle and put it on there. Then when you stop, make sure it's not where you place the marker, quit a couple sts before you get there.

AngelaR
01-17-2010, 04:06 PM
Suzee speaks the truth. It's why I have a long tail cast on for my sock projects to help me in that crucial "divide stitches for the heel" process.

If you have another stitch marker ring, be sure to put that in place when you figure out where you're at. I use the twist ties off the bread package. I'm cheap that way.

Lighting57
01-17-2010, 04:55 PM
When working in the round I pin a safety pin in the grove between the first st and last st of a round and move it upward as I knit.

suzeeq
01-17-2010, 04:59 PM
I use paperclips; you can either put it through the stitch or on the needle if it fits the needle.

Mike
01-18-2010, 02:33 AM
Does it really matter?
If you can't tell where you started it probably doesn't and you can call anywhere the start of a row.
If you can tell but not exactly it probably doesn't matter exactly. Just kind of put that spot generally to the back.

I don't count rows on plain socks or hats. I knit to length and then divide for decreases or sock parts.

trvvn5
01-18-2010, 10:26 AM
Does it really matter?
If you can't tell where you started it probably doesn't and you can call anywhere the start of a row.
If you can tell but not exactly it probably doesn't matter exactly. Just kind of put that spot generally to the back.

I don't count rows on plain socks or hats. I knit to length and then divide for decreases or sock parts.

It doens't really matter right now, but when she gets ready to start her decreases for the crown it'll definately help.

suzeeq
01-18-2010, 11:15 AM
Yeah, there needs to be a starting point for the dec rows, but if she's off a stitch or two, it'll be okay.

AngelaR
01-18-2010, 12:52 PM
Does it really matter?
If you can't tell where you started it probably doesn't and you can call anywhere the start of a row.
If you can tell but not exactly it probably doesn't matter exactly. Just kind of put that spot generally to the back.

I don't count rows on plain socks or hats. I knit to length and then divide for decreases or sock parts.

I can honestly say, after about your third or fourth pair of socks, it doesn't matter about that center stitch. I can now divide up my stitches as needed because I'm very familiar with where I want the instep to be... of course, I'm doing self-striping or plain white socks so it doesn't really matter, but then I start cabled pattern socks, you can bet your bippy it will matter and I will have to be very careful about where that "center stitch" is.

Since this is for a class, I would imagine that the instructor has a reason for wanting the students to always be aware of where the center stitch is for when they begin to divide the stitches for the heel flap. It's a crucial step in learning socks, mittens and gloves.

Mike
01-18-2010, 01:03 PM
It doens't really matter right now, but when she gets ready to start her decreases for the crown it'll definately help.

Why would it help?
Plain hats are round with no front or back.

Decreases need spaced evenly but they don't need placed directly above the join. That's way down there, they're way up there.
Other than placing a design X stitches from the start I can't see any reason to worry about the exact placement of the row counter. Even the jog of color bands (use a jogless join) doesn't necessarily have to happen right above the join.

That's why I asked if it matters. If there's no reason to keep track of the starting point don't worry about it.

OffJumpsJack
01-18-2010, 01:21 PM
(I hadn't intended to alliterate but trimmed the title tantalize.)

I'm thinking of three methods to work in the round: DPNs, two circulars, and ML. The join in the first round always happens between needles and that is a lousy place to put a marker.

I will promote an alternate method to Sue's. I suggest putting the maker either one stitch before the end of a round or after the first stitch. I like to stop at the half or end of a round. Having the maker between stitch one and two keeps me from loosing it.

When I work socks two at a time I also put two makers on sock two and I never get confused as to which sock I am working nor where in the round I am located.

I also like patterns that tell you relative positions between decreases (or increases).

trvvn5
01-18-2010, 03:40 PM
Why would it help?
Plain hats are round with no front or back.

Decreases need spaced evenly but they don't need placed directly above the join. That's way down there, they're way up there.
Other than placing a design X stitches from the start I can't see any reason to worry about the exact placement of the row counter. Even the jog of color bands (use a jogless join) doesn't necessarily have to happen right above the join.

That's why I asked if it matters. If there's no reason to keep track of the starting point don't worry about it.

Yeah but what happens when she's going in the round (remember she's relatively new to this) and starts decreasing. Most hats that decrease have different levels of decrease to them. So she'll be working in a k2tog, k10 pattern, then the next row requires a k2tog, k5, then the next row has another more frequent decrease. My point here is that she's going to need to know when the row begins and ends to know when to start the next phase of decreases. I know this isn't really all the big of a deal if she's off by a few stitches, but if she makes a enough mistakes on counting, she'll end up with something mishapen.

suzeeq
01-18-2010, 03:45 PM
I put the marker at the join and I've only had it fall off a couple times when I wasn't looking. It's very easy to either knit the first stitch and stop, or stop one before the last stitch, or even in the middle of the round somewhere. Then you don't have to worry about it. It's not a big deal on a circ, but I can see with multiple needles it may be a problem. I'd forget if I placed the marker one st after or one stitch before the beg of round anyway.

GrandmaLori
01-19-2010, 02:23 AM
My new favorite round marker is my grand-daughter's Polly Pocket purse. The handle is thin enough not to get in the way, but the purse is sort of substantial, so I would notice if it dropped off. And she LOVES seeing that purse on my knitting projects.

Welshgirl
01-19-2010, 02:45 AM
I know its no help now, but learned the hard way when knitting socks! I too leave a long tail so I know where the start is.

Mike
01-19-2010, 04:38 AM
Yeah but what happens when she's going in the round (remember she's relatively new to this) and starts decreasing. Most hats that decrease have different levels of decrease to them. So she'll be working in a k2tog, k10 pattern, then the next row requires a k2tog, k5, then the next row has another more frequent decrease. My point here is that she's going to need to know when the row begins and ends to know when to start the next phase of decreases. I know this isn't really all the big of a deal if she's off by a few stitches, but if she makes a enough mistakes on counting, she'll end up with something mishapen.

She gets the length to cover her ears, places the decrease markers and starts counting rows from there. Where you decide to start counting rows for the decreases is not dependent on where the hat started.

If it's a pattern stitch or color work then the start would matter because the pattern is based off that point.
Trust me it doesn't matter otherwise. Try it.

I just realized I was a kid just south of you in York.

trvvn5
01-19-2010, 08:25 AM
She gets the length to cover her ears, places the decrease markers and starts counting rows from there. Where you decide to start counting rows for the decreases is not dependent on where the hat started.

If it's a pattern stitch or color work then the start would matter because the pattern is based off that point.
Trust me it doesn't matter otherwise. Try it.

I just realized I was a kid just south of you in York.

OH. I didn't really think of it that way. You're totally right. I was thinking you were saying she would never need them. But you're right. At this point until she gets to shaping the crown they really aren't necessary.

Yup. York is about 25 minutes away. I got there on occassion to go to clubs, or dinner with friends.