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hypeforlife91
01-30-2011, 10:27 PM
Hi there,
I am knitting a men's ribbed full-zip cardigan sweater and this is the first portion of the pattern:

Full-Zip Directions
Using US 7 needles, CO 22 (226, 244, 276, 290, 308) sts.

Work set-up row (RS):
S, L, XL, XXXL: P2, K3, *P2, K6*, work from * to * ; rep to last 7
sts, P2, K3, P2.
M, XXL: *P2, K6*, work from * to * ; rep to last 2 sts, P2.

At same time, place markers after sts:
S: 54, 58
M: 57, 69
L: 62, 82
XL: 70, 206
XXL: 73, 27
XXXL: 78, 230
Work in rib as established, slipping st st of every row, for 2.5”;
switch to US 8 needles and continue for 12 (12, 12.5, 13, 13.5, 14)”.
End after WS row.

Underarm
Work in rib to 4 (6, 8, 8, 10, 12) sts before st marker; BO 8(12, 16,
16, 20, 24) sts. Repeat with second marker; work across row.
Place back sts on holder. Using 2 balls of yarn, Continue to work both
fronts at the same time.

Armhole decreases
Decrease st at each armhole edge every row 8 (8, 9, 11 , 11 , 11)
times, then EOR every other row 0 (0, 1, 5, 5, 6) times, keeping
armhole edge st in St st.
Work in rib pattern for 48 (49, 53, 39, 41, 46) rows.

I am knitting a size Medium. I am not quite at the part I don't understand yet, but the part highlighted in red already has me a bit confused. What does the pattern mean when it says "place back sts on holder"? It didn't say to use a stitch holder before...and it wasn't in the list of required materials.

Thanks! :)

crazykntter83
01-30-2011, 10:31 PM
There's these things called stitch holders that you can get at stores. That's all it means. It wants you to place those stitches on a holder.
Here's a stitch holder (http://shop.hobbylobby.com/products/stitch-holder-686360/). :)

hypeforlife91
01-30-2011, 11:16 PM
There's these things called stitch holders that you can get at stores. That's all it means. It wants you to place those stitches on a holder.
Here's a stitch holder (http://shop.hobbylobby.com/products/stitch-holder-686360/). :)

Hi there, thanks for your reply, I know what a stitch holder is and actually already have one...I just don't get what stitches on the pattern to actually place on the stitch holder. :)

crazykntter83
01-30-2011, 11:52 PM
Sorry, I thought you meant that you didn't know what a stitch holder was....hmmmmm....do you have a link to the pattern?

hypeforlife91
01-31-2011, 12:00 AM
Sorry, I thought you meant that you didn't know what a stitch holder was....hmmmmm....do you have a link to the pattern?

Hi there its okay :)
Um...the pattern is a paid pattern I bought on knitpicks to be downloaded/viewed in the pattern library, so I don't think there is a link, but try if this works:

https://www.knitpicks.com/cfCart/DownloadPattern.cfm?ID=S7PF8W

Thanks!

suzeeq
01-31-2011, 12:24 AM
Your work will be divided into 2 fronts and a back after you BO the underarm sts. Put the sts for the back onto a holder.

Debbie
01-31-2011, 11:16 AM
You will have to use a long loop of yarn as your "stitch holder" since it is the back of a sweater. Use your tapestry needle threaded with yarn to take the loops off the knitting needle, then tie the yarn in a "circle" to hold your stitches while you work on the two fronts.

suzeeq
01-31-2011, 11:50 AM
I like to use another circular needle for a holder and then just knit right off it.

hypeforlife91
01-31-2011, 09:11 PM
Omg thank you so much to the all of you! :)

hypeforlife91
02-07-2011, 03:58 PM
Okay so I'm now at the armhole area and it says this:


Armhole decreases
Decrease 1 st at each armhole edge every row 8 (8, 9, 11 , 11 , 11 )
times, then EOR every other row 0 (0, 1 , 5, 5, 6) times, keeping
armhole edge st in St st.
Work in rib pattern for 48 (49, 53, 39, 41, 46) rows.

At the same time, work collar.

At row 12 (14, 13, 1 , 4, 8) of straight section, work as follows:
Left front collar (RS)
Work to last 5 sts. K2tog, PM, K1, M1L, P2. Work WS row.
Next RS Row: work to last 6 sts. K2tog, SM, K1, M1L, K1, P2.
Work WS row.
Next RS Row: work to last 7 sts. K2tog, SM, K1, M1L p-wise, K2,
P2. Work WS row.
Next RS Row: work to last 8 sts. K2tog, SM, K1, M1L p-wise, P1,
K2, P2. Work WS row.

Continue in this manner, decreasing before marker and increasing
and working collar in K2, P2 rib, a total of 18 (18, 18, 19, 19, 19)
times: 36 (36, 36, 38, 38, 38) rows.

Right front collar (RS)
Sl, P1, MR, K1, PM, SSK, work to end. Work WS row.
Next RS Row: Sl, P1, K1, M1R, K1, SM, SSK, work to end. Work
WS row.
Next RS Row: Sl, P1, K2, M1R p-wise, K1, SM, SSK, work to end.
Work WS row.
Next RS Row: Sl, P1, K2, P1, M1R p-wise, K1, SM, SSK, work to
end. Work WS row.

Continue in this manner, increasing and working collar in K2, P2 rib
before marker and decreasing after, a total of 18 (18, 18, 19, 19, 19)
times: 36 (36, 36, 38, 38, 38) rows

I highlighted the parts I don't quite understand/have a question about in red.

My Questions:

My first question is (first highlighted section)....can I add additional rows to the 49 rows I'm supposed to knit? That is because I found out that my vertical gauge is not the same and it is impossible to get it to the gauge they have of 23 sts= 4" vertically when blocked. Mine is 28 sts vertically - 4". So this means that my 49 rows will be shorter than their 49 rows because the gauge is different. Their 49 rows will be 8.5" while mine will be only 7". So can I add more rows to compensate for the 1.5" difference? If so, I think I might have to alter the sleeve pattern a little too right?

My second question is (second highlighted section)...what is the "straight" section?

Thanks a bunch!

hypeforlife91
02-07-2011, 06:39 PM
Okay, so I hope my armhole shaping isn't off either. Each of my row stitches is 0.14 inches and the pattern's row stitches is 0.17....that is so close per stitch that it is very hard to get it any closer...and the pattern said to "decrease each armhole edge of every row by 1 stitches 8 times" for the armhole...so yeah...that makes it even harder to get any closer.

suzeeq
02-07-2011, 06:53 PM
Convert the number of rows to inches based on the pattern's row gauge, then either knit to the inches or convert that to your row gauge and do that number of rows. You'll have to do that both for the '49 rows' instructions and at the 'row 14' of the straight section which is where you quite doing the decreases and just knit 'straight up'. And yes, you'll have to do more rows on the sleeve cap to make the measurements come out right.

Don't worry about the "decrease each armhole edge of every row by 1 stitches 8 times", when you dec every row, it's not as noticeable.

salmonmac
02-07-2011, 07:20 PM
Yes to question one. You've already figured out the difference in inches so just knit extra rows in pattern to the equivalent length. And yes, you'll probably have to adjust the row directions for the sleeve but you'll have the front and back to use as a guide.
For question two, I think the straight section is the pattern rows where you've completed the armhole shaping and are knitting in the rib pattern (no shaping). Again, you should figure out where to start the collar shaping based on your row gauge compared to pattern's. Sounds like a lovely sweater!

hypeforlife91
02-08-2011, 05:09 AM
Thanks!

Now what I need to know is...do I count up or down from the straight section...like should I start counting 14 rows from the bottom of the armhole or the top?

Also...how do I "work the straight section"? Do I have to attach a new yarn to the 14th row or something? Pick up the side stitches? I'm pretty confused about how to work the collar as it seems to be missing a "bridge" step.

I'm done with the straight section of the armhole. :)
Oddly, now the 49 rows does add up to 8.5"....

EDIT: Omg...I think I know what I did wrong...ugh...the directions are pretty disorganized. I was supposed to incorporate the collar while I was knitting the straight section. Soo uncool, now I have to take my stitches apart >_<....

salmonmac
02-08-2011, 07:04 AM
Yes, it's those pesky "at the same time" instructions that we somehow never read enough ahead to discover in time. I treat every project as a learning experience and try not to make the same mistake again. The least I can do is try for new mistakes!

hypeforlife91
02-09-2011, 03:14 AM
Okay I'm stumped again T_T

Left front collar (RS)
Work to last 5 sts. K2tog, PM, K1, M1L, P2. Work WS row.
Next RS Row: work to last 6 sts. K2tog, SM, K1, M1L, K1, P2.
Work WS row.
Next RS Row: work to last 7 sts. K2tog, SM, K1, M1L p-wise, K2,
P2. Work WS row.
Next RS Row: work to last 8 sts. K2tog, SM, K1, M1L p-wise, P1,
K2, P2. Work WS row.

Continue in this manner, decreasing before marker and increasing
and working collar in K2, P2 rib, a total of 18 (18, 18, 19, 19, 19)
times: 36 (36, 36, 38, 38, 38) rows.

Questions:
In red, I have highlighted my confusing points.
#1 I've only found one video of how to M1L p-wise:
http://s155.photobucket.com/albums/s319/hoffhaus/Tutorials/?action=view&current=DSCN3630.mp4

Is that correct?

#2: Also, if I do the front (M1L purl-wise) wouldn't that mean I have to knit the back (WS)? Or should I purl the back?

#3: When it says "continue working in this manner" what does it exactly mean? Should I M1L or M1L purlwise for the subsequent rows?

So confusing....

Thanks!

hypeforlife91
02-09-2011, 05:15 AM
Actually...I think I know the pattern now...the collar is supposed to be in K2 P2 rib...so the M1L and M1L purlwise creates that rib. I just hope I'm doing the M1L purlwise correctly because it looks a little funny to me. Mine looks like a tinier, tighter version of a regular purl stitch, is it supposed to look like that from the front (right side)?

salmonmac
02-09-2011, 06:58 AM
Thanks so much for the video! When I started knitting I made up that method of M1 purlwise and always thought it was weird but effective. Yes, it works, just loosen up a bit on the yarn you pull through so it's not so tight. It should just look like a knitwise M1 from the WS and since it's part of a rib, it really won't be so noticable on the RS. The st gets knitted on the WS.

So you can see how the pattern is setting up? It's just a repeat of the last 4 rows you gave, increasing the number of sts worked before the marker. Do just what you're doing, watching the pattern develop. You're answering your own questions!

hypeforlife91
02-13-2011, 10:00 PM
Hi :)
So I'm almost done and getting ready to attach the back with the front parts with a 3-needle bind off, but I am having some problems translating some instructions before that.

It says this:
Work short rows; work Back Left shoulder as Front Right, and Back
Right as Front Left.
With WS facing, place front shoulder sts from armhole edge to
marker on needles and hold tog with back shoulder sts. Perform 3-
needle BO across shoulders.

I am on the part in red right now. I know what it is telling me to do, but what my problem is that I can't quite follow the same instructions as the short rows in the front because I didn't put any markers in the back:


Begin short rows
Left Front:
Work across RS row.
WS: work to 16 (16, 17, 17, 18, 18) sts past marker, Wrap and Turn.
Work back on RS.
WS: work to 8 (8, 9, 9, 10, 10) sts past marker, W&T. Work back on
RS.
WS: work across entire row, picking up each wrap and working it tog
with the st it wraps.
Place sts on holder.
Right Front:
RS: work to 16 (16, 17, 17, 18, 18) sts past marker, Wrap and Turn.
Work back on WS.
RS: work to 8 (8, 9, 9, 10, 10) sts past marker, W&T. Work back on
WS.
RS: work across entire row, picking up each wrap and working it tog
with the st it wraps.
Place sts on holder



In other words, see how it says "work to 16 sts past marker" and "work to 8 sts past marker"? How do I do the same for the back when I have no markers in the back to follow? Where do I even start?

Thanks all for being there for me!

suzeeq
02-13-2011, 10:39 PM
You should have put markers on somewhere before this, or left them on if you took them out.

hypeforlife91
02-13-2011, 10:56 PM
That's what I'm trying to figure out, but I'm not sure where that was supposed to happen. :(

The only possibility that I can see where there is supposed to be a marker is really this part that was near the beginning:

Full-Zip DirectionsUsing US 7 needles, CO 212 (226, 244, 276, 290, 308) sts.
Work set-up row (RS):
S, L, XL, XXXL: P2, K3, *P2, K6*, work from * to * ; rep to last 7
sts, P2, K3, P2.
M, XXL: *P2, K6*, work from * to * ; rep to last 2 sts, P2.
At same time, place markers after sts:
S: 54, 158
M: 57, 169
L: 62, 182
XL: 70, 206
XXL: 73, 217
XXXL: 78, 230
Work in rib as established, slipping 1st st of every row, for 2.5”;
switch to US 8 needles and continue for 2 (12, 12.5, 13, 13.5, 14)”.
End after WS row.

I did take those markers highlighted in red out. I tried to replace the markers now, but when I count up the stitches I currently have, I seem to have 2 less stitches than orginally casted on:

Front Left: 42 sts
Front Right: 42 sts
Back Left Shoulder: 25 sts
Back Right Shoulder: 25 sts
Casted Off Back Neck: 34 sts
# of decreased stitches for armhole: 4 x 8 = 32 sts
Casted/Bound off underarm stitches: 24 sts total

Counted stitches: 42 + 42 + 25 + 25 + 34 + 32 + 24 = 224 stitches

Originally casted on: 226 stitches.

So where did those other 2 stitches go? Can someone help me figure it out by reading the pattern:

https://www.knitpicks.com/cfCart/DownloadPattern.cfm?ID=S7PF8W

Thank you so much!

suzeeq
02-13-2011, 11:49 PM
Did you BO 13 sts twice instead of 12?

hypeforlife91
02-14-2011, 12:23 AM
I'm thinking about whether I bound off the underarm stitches incorrectly as well. But they are pretty hard to distinguish from the decreases when I count it so I'm not sure.

Even if I bound off an incorrect amount of stitches, is there a way I can improvise at this point so that I can put the markers on? I am very close to being finished and it doesn't look wrong to me in terms of overall appearance. It actually looks presentable.

The number of stitches on the back is definitely right though. As the pattern states there is supposed to be 25 left shoulder stitches, 24 bound off back neck stitches, and 25 right shoulder stitches. That's what I have. The mistake must lie in the underarm or the fronts if there is one.

Another answer that would really help me is whether the edge of the fronts should match the edge of the back shoulder OR the neck? In other words, the armhole sides (edges) of both front and back should match up right? Should the position of the wrap and turns at the short rows match on both the front and backs?

For example, for short rows, the wrapped stitches I have of the fronts are the 5th and 13th stitches in from the armhole edge, should this be the same for the back shoulders as well? If so, then everything is a-okay :)

hypeforlife91
02-14-2011, 02:37 AM
Okay so I'm attempting to bind off anyways and I do not understand why they say to do this like so:

With WS facing, place front shoulder sts from armhole edge to
marker on needles and hold tog with back shoulder sts. Perform 3-
needle BO across shoulders.

Why is this done with the wrong sides facing? I thought a 3-needle BO is supposed to be with the right sides facing so it will be seamless. Do the directions actually mean "with WS facing the knitter" and not with "WS facing each other"? Thanks!

salmonmac
02-14-2011, 07:06 AM
"With WS facing, place front shoulder sts from armhole edge to
marker on needles and hold tog with back shoulder sts. Perform 3-
needle BO across shoulders."
It's not the clearest instruction, but what the they want is the public sides of the front and back facing each other with the wrong sides to the outside (and the WS of the front facing the knitter).

suzeeq
02-14-2011, 10:13 AM
Right, they mean the RS of the shoulders facing each other so the WS would be facing you.