View Full Version : Help with slipping stitches

07-15-2012, 05:28 PM
I am working on a scarf/cowl pattern and need some help understanding how to slip stitches. I do understand HOW to slip a stitch; however, I am confused on when to slip a stitch knitwise and when to slip a stitch purlwise.
I have a general knitting techniques book that says to always slip a stitch as if to purl, unless specifically instructed otherwise in a pattern so as not to twist the stitches when worked on the next row.
The pattern I am using does not specify one way or the other. Here are the two rows in the pattern that require me to slip stitches:

Row 2: *k1, p1, k1, yo, k1, sl1, p2,pass slipped stitch over the p2*repeat
until only 2 stitches remain; k1, p1.

Row 4: *k1, p1, sl1, k2, pass slipped
stitch over the k2, p1, yo, p1* repeat
until only 2 stitches remain; k1, p1.

If I am thinking correctly, on row 2, I would slip the stitch as if to purl since the next two stitches are purl stitches. Then on row 4, I am thinking that I would slip the stitch as if to knit since the next two stitches are knit stitches.

Can anyone please help me understand if I am thinking this through correctly or if I should always slip as if to purl (unless otherwise instructed) as my knitting guide tells me? Thank you in advance for any help!

07-15-2012, 05:45 PM
I've always slipped knitwise when working a psso. I believe it's to keep the stitch tighter.

07-15-2012, 05:51 PM
The general rule is to slip purlwise when you won't be working with the stitch at all on the same row, and knitwise if you do. Since you do move a slip st when working decs, these are slipped knitwise. It doesn't matter if it's a knit or purl row or what the sts before and after the slip stitch is.

07-15-2012, 06:24 PM
Ok, I see. In that case, I had better get some more clarification about the psso before I continue with this pattern.

On Row 2, when I psso (after the two purl stitches), my next stitch is a knit stitch. Do I keep the working yarn in front (as if to purl) when I pull the slipped stitch over the two purl stitches, and then move the working yarn to the back to make my next knit stitch? Or, do I go ahead and move the working yarn to the back of my work, then pass the slipped stitch over the two purl stitches, then continue with my knit stitch?

Same thing with Row 4: Do I keep the working yarn in back, complete the psso, then move working yarn to the front to make the next purl stitch?

07-15-2012, 06:48 PM
You know, it really won't matter. You can move the yarn and slip or slip the sts and then move the yarn and it'll all turn out the same.

07-15-2012, 07:01 PM
Thanks to all three of you for your help! I have been very excited about starting this pattern for quite some time but had a few obstacles in my way:

1. I needed all of my circular wire as this is a very large project and one of them was being used by a smaller project.
2. My Needlemaster kit came with 4 lengths of cable to theoretically make a number of different lengths, but only came with ONE coupler, so I wasn't able to connect all 4 until I ordered more couplers online.
3. The two "stitch" issues above addressed by some awesome knitters on this forum!

Now, it's time to get started! I'll let you know how it goes!:muah:

07-15-2012, 07:06 PM
I think if you just keep the yarn where it was for the stitch before the slipped one it should come out alright.

09-02-2013, 09:13 PM
Can I get in on this one? My questions are the same. Thank you for answering the "slip knitwise" part. My question also has to do with the slipping, but my question is about moving the yarn to the front or the back before (while) slipping. (Prior poster asked how to move after the Psso.)

So Row 2, if I have just k1, yo, k1 and I'm going to slip. Next stitch is p2. Do I move yarn front, slip knit wise, p2? Or do I keep yarn back, slip knitwise then move front to p2? Or does that also not matter? Maybe I'm asking the same thing as above, I don't know. It's confusing.

I knitted the rows about 4 times, and I'm worried whether the pattern that is developing actually matches what the picture shows. Since I have to make 2 of the same panels, I opted to move the panel I have going off to another set of needles/cables, and I'm gonna start the 2nd panel and see if it looks the same. (Of course if I mess it up twice the same way, it could look the same and still be wrong! LOL!) I sure wish I could just sit with you guys so you could have a look and say, "You're fine!" or nope, better rip to your lifeline!


09-02-2013, 09:17 PM
I would leave the yarn in the back for the slip and bring it to the front for the purl.

It will leave a bar across the stitch, and I am assuming that this will be on the back.

A pattern will tell you where to move the yarn if that bar is a part of the right-side pattern.

If you have a link to the particular pattern you're working, we can look at it and tell, most likely.

09-02-2013, 10:08 PM
Thank you for your quick answer. The designer says the pattern is reversible. Will it leave a bar no matter if I pull forward or leave it back, it'll just be on the front instead of the back? If that's the case, then if I do it the way you said, then when I do row 2 it would be on the back and when I do row 4 it would be...heck now I'm lost because I can't think it through the turning the work back and forth to figure out if that bar would be on the same side or opposite side if I were to (for row 4) leave in front for the slip and bring to back for the knit? (I'm not looking at it right now as I type but I think I am remembering right that row 4 is the reverse of row 2.) I'm working flat, back and forth, and creating 2 pieces to sew together as the designer did, not in the round.

This is the link to download the pattern from ravelry. Row 2 and 4 are exactly as the OP posted so she may have been working on the same project (unless those are very common lace rows, I wouldn't know - I'm a newer knitter.)


Thanks so much for your help.

09-02-2013, 10:16 PM
If this works, here is a photo from the pattern. Not sure if that's helpful.

09-03-2013, 05:54 AM
The pattern link and the picture are a big help. Now we can see that the slip stitch is part of a decrease.
"Row 2: *k1, p1, k1, yo, k1, sl1, p2,
pass slipped stitch over the p2*.."
In that cast, leave the yarn in back, slip knitwise, bring the yarn to the front to purl and then pass slipped st over the p2.
"Row 4 *k1, p1, sl1, k2, pass slipped
stitch over the k2, p1, yo, p1* ..."
I'd do something similar on row 4, k1, p1, bring the yarn to the back, slip knitwise, k2, and then pass slipped st over the k2.
You could try out the pattern on a 9st swatch to see what it will look like rather than the whole panel if you like.

09-03-2013, 12:36 PM
Thank you! So if I keep yarn to back for slips in both rows 2 and 4, the bars from both rows will be on the same side of the fabric, (the ws) right?

Thanks for answering. I was doing row 2 this way, but I don't think I was doing row 4 that way.

Another thing that is making me nervous is that I'm getting to the end of the row and not completing the pattern, (but doing the ending k1,p1 when there are 2 stitches left, like it says.) I hope it's designed so that I'm not supposed to complete the line at the end and that I haven't made a mistake some where along the line...It's like cooking without tasting. I feel like I'm just "hoping" it all comes out ok, and not really feeling sure that what I'm looking at is correct other than the obvious, is the # of active stitches correct, etc.


09-03-2013, 05:54 PM
You won't get the same kind of bar that slipping a stitch gives becasue this is part of a decrease so it's not so much of a concern.
Did you cast on 128sts to work this pattern is two sections, back and forth? If so, you should be able to complete the pattern repeat. The multiple is 7sts + 2 so that's 18 repeats of 7 sts and then the k1p1.
Name the sts one by one to make sure you haven't missed something and count to make sure you have 128,

09-03-2013, 06:27 PM
Yes, 128, back and forth. I was afraid you were going to say that. Ok so I guess I'll start over again. 3rd time? 4th time? This is why I gave up on learning to knit the last time, LOL!

Thank you, at least I won't keep blundering on with this piece.

09-03-2013, 06:51 PM
It is frustrating at the beginning and these set up rows are often a problem. Certainly I've had my arguments with that first few rows myself.
Before you rip it out, see if you can spot the error. it may save repeating it.

09-03-2013, 07:00 PM
The really poor thing is that I thought it was all going ok, so I've been pulling my lifeline threads and only leaving in the last 1. Grrr.

09-04-2013, 08:36 AM
Hello craff - Just about anyone who reads your post has been there :grphug: I really hope you can push through this one, you would be so happy if you did. Knitting can be such a rewarding experience.

I agree with salmon, if you can spot the error, you may be able to avoid ripping the whole thing out.

At any point when you were knitting this, were you able to complete the pattern and then have the two stitches at the end? If so, this would most likely be where you need to rip back to.

Using stitch markers would be very helpful, I would say perhaps every 3 to 4 pattern repeats. This way, if you make a mistake it would be pretty easy to catch it, and you wouldn't need to go very far back to repair it.

Hope this helps.

09-07-2013, 02:42 AM
Claire, thanks for the suggestions, I'll try that. Besides, gives me an excuse to order the pretty stitch markers I found on Etsy. I could just make some more, but I'm too lazy, LOL!