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G J
07-20-2008, 09:27 PM
I’m looking for patterns for my bamboo yarn (Madil Eden). It's listed on Ravelry as a worsted weight, but it's actually lighter than that. I get 22 sts over 4" on a size 6 needle.


Anyway, I like PARTS of lots of patterns, and my fave part of all is the neck and sleeve of this Drops (http://www.garnstudio.com/lang/en/visoppskrift.php?d_nr=101&d_id=23&lang=en)pattern. I don’t know if anyone can help, but what I’d really like is to put the neck and sleeve of this on a simple, slightly fitted top with nothing fancy, but maybe a repeat of the edge pattern on the bottom. Is this possible, or am I just dreaming here? Does anyone have a pattern that I can add the neck and sleeve band to?
Thanks!

ETA: The reason I don't want to do this exact pattern is b/c it has holes...you'd have to wear something under it or show more than I care to.

katknit
07-21-2008, 10:08 AM
The simplest way would be to knit this exact pattern but eliminating the eyelets wherever you don't want them. It would look very nice with only the ribbing.

Jan in CA
07-21-2008, 01:46 PM
Ohhh I like that! I agree that if you like the shape other then the eyelets leave them out. Eyelets are often used as a decorative increase so you can use a different one instead which would create it's own look.

G J
07-21-2008, 02:34 PM
Thanks! I do LOVE the pattern! Do you think my gauge of 22st over 4" is close enough for gauge? It calls for 21....

Jan in CA
07-21-2008, 04:10 PM
Well, I'm not super good at this, but one stitch over a whole garment can make a huge difference. Case in point.. I am making a sweater (no pattern) and it was calculated at 5 st per inch based on the sleeve I did first and used as a gauge swatch..well after knitting for a bit on the body it turns out my gauge loosened and was about 4.5 instead. I had to frog it and reduce my c/o by 36 stitches! :shock: A 1 stitch difference over 4 inches (if that is what you meant) is a .25 over every inch so it's not a huge amount, but over an entire sweater might be a problem.

See if you can figure the difference and then check the schematic at the bottom. Maybe making a different size would make up the difference.

cam90066
07-21-2008, 04:23 PM
See if you can figure the difference and then check the schematic at the bottom. Maybe making a different size would make up the difference.

I agree with Jan. The bottom edge of 40 cm is 15.7" and 44 cm is 17.3". (Not quite 2 in.) If you're gaining a st (or more, depends on how uniform your gauge is) every 4 inches that'll add up quickly. Given the style of the top, whatever treatment you opt for to replace the eyelets will determine how fitted it is.

cam

G J
07-21-2008, 04:49 PM
I could SO get into changing all my patterns if it wasn't for the MATH!

So I got gauge on a size 7 needle. It looks a bit loose for the fabric, but maybe I'll go for it?!?

Any suggestions as to what to replace the YOs with? Can I just keep it a simple ribbing?

cam90066
07-21-2008, 06:30 PM
Any suggestions as to what to replace the YOs with? Can I just keep it a simple ribbing?

How many sts are involved with that section? Of course, you could do a couple incs/decs to arrive at a number needed for a certain st patt. You could do a mini cable...over 2 or 3 sts....which would draw it in a bit. (I think those would look very classy, esp with the delicate trim at the neck, sleeve.) Based on the number of working sts, you might want to swatch diff combos of 1/1, 1/2, etc type ribs to see how much draw you get and what you want around your mid-section. You can also do garter type rib where you only K or P on the WS and that'll prevent the rib from pulling in very much. (I use it on the lower hems of cardis where I want the rib effect but not the pull.)

The looseness of the sts won't be as obvious if the mid-section is worked over something slightly elastic...and might be to your advantage in keeping it a bit relaxed. But if too swimmy, you might need to go down a ndl sz. Determine where it's most important for the top to fit the patt measurements and how much ease (+/-) you're wanting.

The math involved in reworking patts isn't all the complicated. Just a matter of doing it on a reg basis so you know what cals to make when.

cam

Jan in CA
07-21-2008, 06:49 PM
I could SO get into changing all my patterns if it wasn't for the MATH!



Oh I know! Math and I don't get along well at all. :teehee: I had help with my sweater. :thumbsup: Cam can answer your design questions better than I so I'll let her do that part. ;)

cam90066
07-21-2008, 07:24 PM
Cam can answer your design questions better than I so I'll let her do that part.

Thanks, Jan!:aww: Yep, if you have math issues, hopefully I can assist. They say you have to keep challenging the aging gray matter to keep it working. All my knitting changes certainly afford me those opps.

cam

Jan in CA
07-21-2008, 07:50 PM
Thanks, Jan!:aww: Yep, if you have math issues, hopefully I can assist. They say you have to keep challenging the aging gray matter to keep it working. All my knitting changes certainly afford me those opps.

cam

You're welcome! I am all for working the gray matter, but I never know where to start with math. :hair: I need it spelled out. Every little thing then if I do it a few times I'll remember it. I hope.

cam90066
07-21-2008, 08:43 PM
For some of my pattern 're-do's' I have pages of math calcs. Only problem is, when I refer back to my notes later (weeks or months), I have virtually NO clue how to decipher them. :( I know they made perfect sense at the time tho. LOL

cam

G J
07-21-2008, 10:23 PM
You're welcome! I am all for working the gray matter, but I never know where to start with math. :hair: I need it spelled out. Every little thing then if I do it a few times I'll remember it. I hope.

This SO describes me! If I know where to put the numbers, I can do it, but I just don't even know what math to do sometimes!

Cam, I like your idea of doing a small cable or something. :think:
When you get to the eyelet part, it has you decrease from 186 to 184 (to get to the right # of stitches for the next pattern, I'm guessing) and then you go back to the 186 after that part is done.

I guess anything that divides evenly into one of those numbers will work?

cam90066
07-21-2008, 10:33 PM
I guess anything that divides evenly into one of those numbers will work?

Yep. But if it didn't you could fudge the numbers a bit (perhaps leave out the dec) and then adjust back to the req'd number when you've completed the mid section.

Swatch your st patt options and see which one strikes your fancy AND to see how much pull/elasticity they have.

cam

katknit
07-22-2008, 04:17 PM
Gina, if you go ahead with this project, do keep us updated!
:figureditout:

G J
07-22-2008, 04:40 PM
I'm seven rows into it and now I'm doing another swatch for the patterned part and am not sure what the pattern means on the chart when it says k3, lift the first of the 3 sts over the other 2. Is this a 3/2 cable? This is the M2 chart. It shows it over 3 stitches, then a yo, then another 3 stitches, so I just don't know!

G J
07-22-2008, 06:31 PM
I got it. Duh!:doh:

G J
07-25-2008, 10:38 PM
Well, I'm about 5" into it and LOVE this pattern. I need to decrease a bit, though. My gauge is different than my swatch.

cam90066
07-25-2008, 10:57 PM
My gauge is different than my swatch.

By how much? You can do add'l decs so long as you have the right number of sts for whatever st pattern you decided to sub in the middle.

cam

Debkcs
07-26-2008, 03:23 AM
Hi Gina! Is this the yarn that you originally bought for the Jeannee pattern? I'm anxious to see how it looks when you get it done. Glad I'm not the only one that knitting math throws.

Love the pattern, BTW, very pretty. Is this one for you?

G J
07-26-2008, 09:12 AM
Yes, Deb, it's the same yarn. It drapes beautifully for this pattern, but wasn't sturdy enough for the other one.

Cam, I'm using the Mock Cable: Right stitch pattern from the 365 Knitting Stitches a Year (July 23), which is a four stitch pattern. In the round it's Row 1, 2 4: k2, p2; row 3: cross 2 front, p2.

How do I decrease and keep in the stitch pattern? I'm used to following the stitch below, but how do I do that if I decrease? If I p2 tog or k2 tog, then I have only 1 p or k and it throws the pattern off. :shrug:

G J
07-26-2008, 03:05 PM
Here's a picture of my stitch patterns. Do you think they're okay? I'm loving the drape of the fabric. It's still a bit big, though, so I'm trying to figure out how to do the decreases. Do I p2tog, k2, p2 tog and just leave one p between the cables on the sides?