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ABC's Mom 08-28-2012 04:31 PM

Pattern is driving me crazy!!!
 
Has anyone out there worked with Dolce Handknit patterns before?
I am attempting to do one of their patterns and even the experts at my local yarn store can't figure this one out!!
I am working on the Madison pattern. The first part went fine til I got to the armhole shaping and the neck shaping then it turns into Greek!!
I have sent an email to them to see if they can help me, but it's been a very frustrating experience thus far.
If someone thinks they can help (I'll retype the sections on here) or has that pattern and can help me with it please let me know.
Thanks

Jan in CA 08-28-2012 04:54 PM

Yes, please type the sections you're having trouble with.

Here's the link if anyone can help.
http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/madison-7

ABC's Mom 08-28-2012 06:24 PM

Ok, here goes.
Armhole shaping: Next row(RS), BO 5 sts, knit 1 more st, work in patt as set to last 7 sts, knit to end. Next row(WS), BO 5 sts, p6, k1, PM, work in patt as set to last 8 sts, PM, k1 purl to end, 94 sts.
*Dec 1 st at each edge every RS row 3 times as foll: ssk, knit to 1st before marker, p1, work in patt as set to marker, p1, knit to last 2 sts, k2tog* 88 sts. Next row(WS), purl to marker, remove marker, p1, k1, PM work in patt as set to last 7 sts, PM, k1, purl to end removing original marker. Beg with next row (RS), rep btwn *, 82 sts rem after armhole shaping is complete. Cont even in patt as set until back meas approx 23 1/2" from beg, ending with a WS row. PM to indicate center 28 stitches for back neck.

OK now my questions for this section: 1. I think there is a marker placement missing as they only have you place 1 marker. 2. I'm not sure the work in patt to last 7 sts is the correct number should it be 9 to make it come out even? 3. If you only do the 3 alternate decrease rows you have 88 sts so are you supposed to keep decreasing until you get to 82 sts following the pattern established in between the *?

Neck Shaping: Work in patt as set to first marker, join new yarn and BO sts btwn markers, dec as foll: when next st to be worked is a knit st, BO as normal, when next st to be worked is a purl st, k2tog then BO, patt to end, 27 sts rem for each shoulder. Work both sides of neck at the same time with separate balls of yarn. Next row (WS) *work in patt as set across first shoulder, BO 2 sts at beg of opp shoulder, patt to end.* Next row (RS) rep btwn* 25 sts rem for each shoulder. Next row, BO all sts kwise, dec as foll: when next st to be worked is a knit st, BO as normal, when next st to be worked is a purl st, k2tog then BO.

Question #1 for this section: how can there be the same number of sts for each shoulder as stated in line 4 in this section when you haven't decreased any sts in the first part of the row before adding 2nd yarn and BO the middle section of the row?
Question#2: What does it mean to k2tog then BO?
Question#3: In the last rows directions it sounds like you are to basically decrease way too many stitches to make a decent shoulder seam if you are k2tog all the purl sts as it's a k2, p2 alternating rib pattern.

This is only the back!! Who knows how many mistakes are in the 2 fronts and sleeves!!

Thanks in advance for your help.

salmonmac 08-28-2012 07:20 PM

"Armhole shaping: Next row(RS), BO 5 sts, knit 1 more st, work in patt as set to last 7 sts, knit to end. Next row(WS), BO 5 sts, p6, k1, PM, work in patt as set to last 8 sts, PM, k1 purl to end, 94 sts.
*Dec 1 st at each edge every RS row 3 times as foll: ssk, knit to 1st before marker, p1, work in patt as set to marker, p1, knit to last 2 sts, k2tog* 88 sts. Next row(WS), purl to marker, remove marker, p1, k1, PM work in patt as set to last 7 sts, PM, k1, purl to end removing original marker. Beg with next row (RS), rep btwn *, 82 sts rem after armhole shaping is complete."

Armhole shaping:
I've bolded the markers. In each case I see 2 of them.
Work to the last 7 makes is incorrect, you're right. It should be work to the last 9sts PM, work to the end, removing the old marker.
And yes, repeat the RS decrease row until there are 82sts.
I think this is going to be easier to do if you follow the instructions (with that one correction) with the sts on the needle than it is to read the instructions. It's really trying to guide you through the decrases while maintaining the pattern st as much as possible.

salmonmac 08-28-2012 07:40 PM

"Neck Shaping: Work in patt as set to first marker, join new yarn and BO sts btwn markers, dec as foll: when next st to be worked is a knit st, BO as normal, when next st to be worked is a purl st, k2tog then BO, patt to end, 27 sts rem for each shoulder."

The directions here for how to bind off are for the center sts. You work to the first marker, presumably 27sts, then work the bind off of the center sts. In order to do this, bind off k sts as usual but when you come to purl sts, k2tog, then bind off (This is so you don't have a ruffley neck edge.) Continue to bind off until there are 26sts on the left needle (plus one stitch on the right needle from the bind off) and then finish out the row on those last sts.
When you bind off you knit a st from the left to the right needle. Here they want you to k2tog so that you have one st on the right needle and then bind off.

"Work both sides of neck at the same time with separate balls of yarn. Next row (WS) *work in patt as set across first shoulder, BO 2 sts at beg of opp shoulder, patt to end.* Next row (RS) rep btwn* 25 sts rem for each shoulder. Next row, BO all sts kwise, dec as foll: when next st to be worked is a knit st, BO as normal, when next st to be worked is a purl st, k2tog then BO."

Again the point of the k2tog here is because the k2p2 rib pulls in the knitted fabric. When you bind off either as all knits or even in k2p2 pattern, you'll have too much fabric and it'll ruffle instead of giving you a nice straight shoulder seam. Give it a try and if the shoulder is too narrow you can always take it out and k2tog every other p2 rib.


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