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-   -   Please, Help -- Pattern Confusion (http://www.knittinghelp.com/forum/showthread.php?t=78768)

PurlingAndHurling 04-17-2008 03:18 PM

Please, Help -- Pattern Confusion
 
Hi, everyone. I began knitting because my husband has always wanted a handknit fisherman's knit sweater. After a long, long time, he finally saw a pattern that he loved. I was ecstatic :woohoo: until I couldn't understand it. :zombie:

I need to make this pattern in medium and found yarn that is comparable to the yarn the pattern calls for (no longer made). I just can't figure out how to start it, how many pieces it calls for, etc. To begin, it doesn't say to cast on anything. :gah:

Can someone please help me type this pattern out for a medium? I would be so grateful because I am truly lost, especially at the beginning portion. I cannot understand this pattern and I'm not sure if it's me or the way it's written (it's an old one).

Calling on the kindness of a stranger to help me. :grphug: The pattern is here: http://www.knitting-crochet.com/meniripul.html

cam90066 04-17-2008 04:00 PM

You're doing the back, front and two sleeves.

Pattern states (from various parts of patt):

BACK: Using smaller straight needles, cast on 92(102-114-124) sts.

FRONT: Work to correspond to back until armholes measure 6 (6-7-7 ) inches -- 82 (88-94-100) sts.
The front is worked as back so if you were working this on circs you could be making both pieces at the same time being they're identical to a point.

SLEEVES: Using smaller straight needles, cast on 48 (48-50-50) sts.


As for sizing:

These directions are for small size (32-34). Changes for medium size (36-38), large size (40-42) and extra large size (44-46) are in parentheses. For men's sizes advance one step. Example: Women's medium size (36-38) is men's small size (36-38).

The 36-38 is Men's Small so you'd do the 40-42 for Med *IF* those measurements are applicable. This is an old pattern when ppl were more slender so work the numbers that apply and ignore what they're called.

Print out the entire pattern, highlight the numbers that apply to the size you're making. If necessary, strike out any numbers to ignore if they're confusing. For ex

BACK: Using smaller straight needles, cast on 92(102-114-124) sts.

cam

PurlingAndHurling 04-18-2008 10:03 AM

Cam, thank you so much for answering. You're the only person who has actually answered me and I've asked lots of people. My only confusion is knitting the back and the front. Do I do them both on circular needles at the same time? It says using "smaller straight needles" though. So, I don't make the back, then the front, the the two arms? Do you know what size needles?

I am sorry to ask so many questions, but for some reason, I have a mental block with this pattern. :(

I thank you so much for helping.

suzeeq 04-18-2008 10:16 AM

You can do them on one circ at the same time, you don't have to, or you can knit in the round up to the armholes. Many patterns call for knitting on straight needles, but a lot of knitters don't use them, so knit back and forth on circs. The needle sizes are 3 and 6, you do the ribbing with the small ones, then change to the larger ones for the body after 3 inches or so. I think the confusion comes with the layout of the pattern with the stitch pattern written out first, then the sweater pattern itself. You can copy and paste each section into a separate file, then print them out. Refer to the sweater pattern for getting started and the shaping, then when you get into the body of the sweater, follow the stitch pattern.

cam90066 04-18-2008 12:24 PM

The pattern states:

1 pair each BERNAT-Aero straight knitting needles Nos. 3 and 6 (3.25 mm and 4.25 mm) OR ANY SIZE NEEDLES THAT WILL GIVE THE SPECIFIED STITCH GAUGE
1 set BERNAT-Aero dp needles No. 3 (3.25 mm) 1 BERNAT-Aero cable stitch needle

GAUGE: 11 sts = 2 inches 7 rows = 1 inch


The operative words being 'ANY SIZE NEEDLES THAT WILL GIVE THE SPECIFIED STITCH GAUGE.' Given the amt of work that goes into the st patt of this sweater you have to be virtually spot on so make sure your gauge swatch washes and dries to the size you desire so you don't make the sweater and find it grows/shrinks, thereby making it unwearable. Just because you have a yarn, whose ballband gives similar gauge info to the original yarn mentioned in the patt, doesn't mean your knitting will match what the patt calls for. Every knitter is diff so your swatch is crucial.

You'll be working with dpns so if you're not familiar with how those are used, do practice in advance. Be advised that some get a diff gauge working in the round than straight so CHECK YOUR GAUGE so it matches the swatch done on straights.

The decision to work back/front tog on circ, or in the round to the armholes, means you eliminate the need to duplicate the entire process when working on straights. Each piece will be the same sz, have any incs/decs at the exact place. Some find their work goes faster that way as you don't have to refer back to the earlier piece to measure, see where you did something. (I always do both sleeves at the same time on circs so in just a bit more time than it takes to make one they're both finished...and exactly the same.)

Cautionary note: make sure you're comfortable with the instructions and content of the patt before starting. Given the amt of detail in the st work frogging wouldn't be as easy as in straight stockinette. If nec, do another test swatch with a few of the st patts so you know what to expect once the full fabric is developing.

HTH,
cam


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