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Old 10-23-2007, 07:46 PM   #16
Working the Gusset
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The Super-Warm Winter Hat

Two balls of yarn in similar weight, and different colors (you can do this with two of the same color, its just really hard to keep the yarns straight)
1 circular needle in a size appropriate for the yarn
4 dpns in the same size as the circular needle
Stitch markers

For simplicity, I am going to use the following notations:
M – k1 main color, p1 contrasting color
C – k1 contrasting color, p1 main color
Think of each set of two stitches as a single stitch set, and don’t finish for the day after doing a knit stitch until you’ve got the hang of it.

Typically, if the hat I am knitting fits my head, it will fit the heads of most people unless they are unusually large or small people. Before you begin, you should probably measure and check your gauge to be sure that you cast on the right number. For this pattern, use multiples of six. The number I usually use is 90. That is the number of stitches that I will use for the instructions. If you have problems with adjusting this number, please let me know.

When you get to where it says Dec M, here’s what you do (You may want to practice this a couple of times before you get to the hat):
Slip your needle knitwise under the next two main color stitches. Its just like doing a k2tog, except you have to be sure not to pick up the contrasting stitch between these two.
Knit these two together, but when you take them off the other needle, be sure that you don’t knock the contrasting color stitch off.
Now, do a p2tog with the contrasting color stitches that are now right next to each other on the needle.
Continue on your merry way. Its really that easy!

Holding both yarns together, CO90 on the circular needle. Place stitch markers every 15 stitches. You may have to knit a few rounds on the dpns, if your circ is too long.
Place a double marker (or if you have a special marker, use it. Just so its different from the others) as you join the stitches in the round. Still holding both strands together, k1p1 rib for one round.
Here’s the fun part. Separate the two strands. Now observe the stitches you have already made: each one has two strands in it, right? We are now going to treat each strand as a separate stitch. Pick up one strand to knit with the main color, then pick up the other to purl with the contrasting color. Continue all the way around.
Congratulations! That was the hard part. Every other stitch should now be a different color, starting with the main color.
M sets for 15 rounds. This should be about the height of your ear.
C sets for 2 rounds.
M sets for 2 rounds.
C sets for 5 rounds.
M sets for 2 rounds.
C sets for 2 rounds.
M sets for 15 rounds. If you try on the hat now, it should come to no more than two inches from the top of your head. If it doesn’t, add a couple more rounds.
M13 (you should have two sets or four stitches before the marker), Mdec; repeat to end of round.
M around two times.
M12, Mdec; repeat to end of round.
M around once.
M11, Mdec; repeat to end of round.
M around once.
M10, Mdec; repeat to end of round.
M around once.
M9, Mdec; repeat to end of round.
M8, Mdec; repeat to end of round.
M7, Mdec; repeat to end of round.
Repeat in this manner until 6 sets (12 stitches) remain. Switch to dpns as needed.

Place contrasting color stitches on a stitch holder. Cut both yarns, leaving about 8 inches of tail. Thread the main color yarn through the main color stitches. Poke the tail to the inside of the hat, turn the hat inside out, and tie off. Now thread the contrasting color yarn through the contrasting color stitches and tie off.
You may add a pom-pom if you desire.
recent FOs: Shedir cap, Bricks of Atlantis, Pirates Hat, Citrine Socklets, Teddy bears, 1 entrelac sock
OTN: scraps blanket, Shedir for Teenie, Ice Serpent Hat
NIL: Qiviuk tam re-visited; weatherproof gloves; sweaters
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