I'm going to give it as it would be for just the smaller size. Cast on 38,
Row 1 (RS): k2 (You are working everything but the 14 sts of the chart in garter stitch so knit every thing but those stitches coming and going. On the chart you will be knitting the cable on the right side and purling it on the wrong side and the stitches on the side of the cable will be purled on the right side and knit on the wrong side, so on the wrong side purl the purls and knit the knits. ) work the chart for 14 stitches, then knit 22.
Row 2 (WS): K22, work the 14 chart stitches knitting the knits and purling the purls, k2.
Row 3 RS (you only work the short rows on the right side rows). K2, chart over 14, k20 (2 short of the end, this will be 36 sts altogether). Turn
Row 4 WS: K20, work the 14 from the chart as you did on row 2, k2.
Row 5: K2, chart 14, knit 18, turn. (34 stitches used)
Row 6: K18, chart 14, k2.
Row 7: K2, chart 14, k15, turn. (31 stitches used)
Row 8: K15, chart 14, k2.
Then go back and begin at row 1 again and work the 8 rows again. Keep the cable chart going as given in the chart and when you finish one repeat of the chart work another until you have done 10 repeats of the chart.
That is what I get out of it. I haven't worked it and I could be wrong, but that's what I would try, if it doesn't work, it's wrong.
Working the short rows like this will shape the top of the hat as you work the cable for the cuff of the hat.