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Old 12-04-2010, 06:16 PM   #11
LinneaJo
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I know, you're absolutely right! I just find it so sad knitting wrong... It makes me cry, honestly.
But I feel a bit more secure now and I will go ahead and test it.

Short question: Which decrease will match my yarn over in tilting and such? There is a couple to choose from:
http://www.knittinghelp.com/videos/decreases
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Old 12-04-2010, 07:30 PM   #12
suzeeq
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You can't really knit 'wrong'. It's all a part of making your own pattern - you try it one way and if that doesn't give you the result you want, do it another way. You can use either k2tog or ssk, even though they lean differently, when they're between yarnovers it really doesn't matter.
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Old 12-04-2010, 08:06 PM   #13
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Originally Posted by suzeeq View Post
You can't really knit 'wrong'. It's all a part of making your own pattern - you try it one way and if that doesn't give you the result you want, do it another way. You can use either k2tog or ssk, even though they lean differently, when they're between yarnovers it really doesn't matter.
Well, I know. You try, you fail, you learn, you do it right. A necessary part of the process. But I get so upset I might just leave-in and stop trying.

Thanks for the decrease-tips. Since the rest of decreases are k2tog, it probably would be best to do mine k2tog too?
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Old 12-04-2010, 08:50 PM   #14
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You can keep 'em all the same. Or... you can do k2tog on one row and ssk on another and usually get a different look. You can experiment - k2tog yo on one and ssk yo for the other. That sometimes gives you a zig zaggy effect.
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Old 12-04-2010, 11:00 PM   #15
LinneaJo
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Originally Posted by suzeeq View Post
You can keep 'em all the same. Or... you can do k2tog on one row and ssk on another and usually get a different look. You can experiment - k2tog yo on one and ssk yo for the other. That sometimes gives you a zig zaggy effect.
That would probably look nice, but I want it nice and even just like the picture. So k2tog it is, then?
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Old 12-05-2010, 01:04 AM   #16
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It's your knitting... whatever you decide will be fine.
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Old 12-05-2010, 07:51 PM   #17
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Hm... thought about this one too...

CO 3 sts

Row: yo, K1, yo
Row: K1, P1, K1
Row: K1, *yo, k2tog*, yo
Row: K1, P2, K1
Row: K1, *yo, k2tog*, yo, K1
Row: K1, P3, K1
Row: K1, *yo, k2tog*, yo, K1
Row: K1, P4, K1
Row: K1, *yo, k2tog*, yo, K1
Row: K1, P5, K1
Row: K1, *yo, k2tog*, yo, K1
Row: K1, P6, K1
Row: K1, *yo, k2tog*, yo, K1
Row: K1, P7, K1
Row: K1, *yo, k2tog*, yo, K1
Row: K1, P8, K1
Row: K1, *yo, k2tog*, yo, K1
Row: K1, P9, K1
Row: K1, *yo, k2tog*, yo, K1
Row: K1, P10, K1

Row: K1, *yo, k2tog*, k2tog, yo, k2tog
Row: K1, P9, K1
Row: K1, *yo, k2tog*, k2tog, yo, k2tog
Row: K1, P8, K1
Row: K1, *yo, k2tog*, k2tog, yo, k2tog
Row: K1, P7, K1
Row: K1, *yo, k2tog*, k2tog, yo, k2tog
Row: K1, P6, K1
Row: K1, *yo, k2tog*, k2tog, yo, k2tog
Row: K1, P5, K1
Row: K1, *yo, k2tog*, k2tog, yo, k2tog
Row: K1, P4, K1
Row: K1, *yo, k2tog*, k2tog, yo, k2tog
Row: K1, P3, K1
Row: K1, *yo, k2tog*, k2tog, yo, k2tog
Row: K1, P2, K1
Row: K1, *yo, k2tog*, K1
Row: K1, P1, K1
Row: K1, *yo, k2tog*
Row: K1, P1
Row: k2tog

Bind Off
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Old 12-05-2010, 08:29 PM   #18
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Throw out this row - yo, K1, yo - after casting on 3 sts you have to use them all , same for this one -K1, *yo, k2tog*, yo, don't end a row with a YO. It's perfectly fine to have a few rows before the mesh pattern. So begin with CO 3 and knit all sts. Then next row - k2, YO k1, and k1 p2, k1 on the next row. Then you can continue as written... I think.


The rows beginning here - Row: K1, *yo, k2tog*, k2tog, yo, k2tog - won't work you have 2 decs at the end and only 1 YO. Just keep going the same as before.

Now I have a suggestion. Please try one or both of the patterns I linked to in post 6 and I think you'll find the mesh stitch they produce is the same as what you're going for. Except for the lacy baktus being in garter, but you can purl the WS rows. These patterns have been made several times and will work; at the very least they will show you how to work the incs and stay in pattern to get what you want.
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