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Old 02-22-2012, 06:21 PM   #11
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Are there other patterns where it's essential to get the correct gauge for row numbers? I imagine this would be helpful information to have in my little noggin'!!
Some patterns that have fancy stitches requiring a certain number of rows to be repeated and need to stop at a certain place in the pattern might be one. Also some patterns are written where instead of telling you, "knit for 6inches" it will give it in rows, " work 27 rows".

I did a hat that needed to have a certain length to get the effect they wanted with it long enough to droop over at the top. The gauge was given with the same number of rows as stitches making 4". There was a color chart with patterns going on all over. But my gauge didn't match theirs so I needed 16 more rows to get the length they called for. So I had to invent some other patterns to fill in the extra rows, or repeat stuff or whatever I thought would work. If I had gotten their gauge I could just have followed their chart with no other thinking needed.

It seems like raglan and maybe other types of armholes could be too long or short if your row gauge was way off.
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Old 02-22-2012, 07:11 PM   #12
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Right, I mentioned rows being important in a top down raglan because that's what I've heard, but I've never had a problem with just winging a pattern. I've done baby sweaters, and adult sizes and they all seem to fit pretty well. Perhaps when people are actually following a written pattern and the gauge is done on size 8s with worsted there's less leeway - I don't know, I won't knit a sweater that dense with worsted.

For patterns that do say to 'knit for 23 rows' I convert them to inches according to the pattern's gauge, then knit to that measurement.
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Old 02-23-2012, 02:27 AM   #13
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Originally Posted by MerigoldinWA View Post

It seems like raglan and maybe other types of armholes could be too long or short if your row gauge was way off.
The baby sweater I'm working on is worked in pieces from the bottom up, and all pieces are joined at the armhole for a semicircular yoke worked up from armhole to neckline. I'm anal-compulsive after already having adjusted the entire pattern for stitch gauge I adjusted for row gauge as well to make sure the yoke came out right to maintain the neckline patterning.

Definitely left me feeling like a math wizard in need of a very large glass of wine after putting away the calculator!


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