Felting

[leonora]

Oh, at the end of row 1 you should have only 9 stitches, and the same on row 2. Then you begin the increases with Row 3 andthe following RS rows.

Hello, Woud like to ask if Polyacrl Wool can be Felt and how I must so that??

Thank you very much and God bless.

[suzeeq]

Leonora. If it's all polyacryl with no wool in it, it can't be felted. I assume you're using 'wool' to mean yarn, not wool the fiber?

[mojo11]

As far as I know, only animal-based fibers will felt properly. At least in the way we're used to doing it. Wool, mohair, alpaca, ... beaver, muskox, possum... you get the idea. (Technically what we call "felting" is properly called "fulling" but that's another discussion.)

The way it works is, the hair (fiber) has a hollow shaft that has microscopic scales on the outside, which make it flexible. When you add heat, the scales flex open (presumably to act like tiny radiator fins to keep the animal cool when the fiber is still on the animal). Add moisture to lubricate the process and agitation to stir things up and the fibers get entangled in the scales of the other fibers and the whole thing becomes a tangled hairy mess. Then when you cool it, the scales close, locking everything into place.

Plant and synthetic fibers don't have this property, so this technique doesn't work with them. You could conceivably use them for needle felting I guess, though I don't know enough about how that works to say for sure.

Other "gotchas" about felting (learned the hard way):

If you're doing it in the washer, don't let the machine go into the spin cycle. For one thing, you may create creases in the fabric that will NEVER come out. But also, many washers always rinse with cold water, and you don't want this to happen just yet. You can leave the lid open when you start the machine, which SHOULD keep it from going into the spin cycle. (You can probably guess from this that you can't use a a front-loading washer...)

If possible, don't try to felt white or light colored yarns. A lot of them use bleach to prep them for the dyeing process, which interferes with the way the felting works. SOME yarns won't have this problem. If the yarn is undyed, you may not have to worry about it. and you can always try a swatch and see if it's going to work for you. And you can probably guess that you don't want to use bleach in the wash when you do this, though a SMALL(!) amount of detergent can actually help.

The looser you knit, the better. In fact, I use at least a size or two larger than usual needles. The looser the knit, the easier it is for the fibers to move around and do what they do.

Put the piece you're felting in a pillowcase or some other kind of cloth bag that WILL STAY SHUT. Otherwise, you may wind up choking your washer with loose fibers, and you'll almost definitely get whatever happens to be floating around in the wash felted into your work. (Cat hair is especially obnoxious for this.) DON'T use one of those mesh lingerie bags, they don't do the job you're trying to do.

If the yarn says "superwash" on it, it won't felt. Or at least not well. Whatever they do to yarn to give it its "superwash" qualities is designed to KEEP it from felting, so you're working at cross purposes.

[leonora]

As far as I know, only animal-based fibers will felt properly. At least in the way we're used to doing it. Wool, mohair, alpaca, ... beaver, muskox, possum... you get the idea. (Technically what we call "felting" is properly called "fulling" but that's another discussion.)

The way it works is, the hair (fiber) has a hollow shaft that has microscopic scales on the outside, which make it flexible. When you add heat, the scales flex open (presumably to act like tiny radiator fins to keep the animal cool when the fiber is still on the animal). Add moisture to lubricate the process and agitation to stir things up and the fibers get entangled in the scales of the other fibers and the whole thing becomes a tangled hairy mess. Then when you cool it, the scales close, locking everything into place.

Plant and synthetic fibers don't have this property, so this technique doesn't work with them. You could conceivably use them for needle felting I guess, though I don't know enough about how that works to say for sure.

Other "gotchas" about felting (learned the hard way):

If you're doing it in the washer, don't let the machine go into the spin cycle. For one thing, you may create creases in the fabric that will NEVER come out. But also, many washers always rinse with cold water, and you don't want this to happen just yet. You can leave the lid open when you start the machine, which SHOULD keep it from going into the spin cycle. (You can probably guess from this that you can't use a a front-loading washer...)

If possible, don't try to felt white or light colored yarns. A lot of them use bleach to prep them for the dyeing process, which interferes with the way the felting works. SOME yarns won't have this problem. If the yarn is undyed, you may not have to worry about it. and you can always try a swatch and see if it's going to work for you. And you can probably guess that you don't want to use bleach in the wash when you do this, though a SMALL(!) amount of detergent can actually help.

The looser you knit, the better. In fact, I use at least a size or two larger than usual needles. The looser the knit, the easier it is for the fibers to move around and do what they do.

Put the piece you're felting in a pillowcase or some other kind of cloth bag that WILL STAY SHUT. Otherwise, you may wind up choking your washer with loose fibers, and you'll almost definitely get whatever happens to be floating around in the wash felted into your work. (Cat hair is especially obnoxious for this.) DON'T use one of those mesh lingerie bags, they don't do the job you're trying to do.

If the yarn says "superwash" on it, it won't felt. Or at least not well. Whatever they do to yarn to give it its "superwash" qualities is designed to KEEP it from felting, so you're working at cross purposes.

Thank you very much for such a good information..
I have another question pls..
I am trying to figure out these pattern and it makes me confused..

Place pocket lining: Next row: (RS). K27 (29-33-37-46-54). Slip next 44 (46-46-48- 48-50) sts onto a st holder. K44 (46-46-48- 48-50) from pocket lining. K27 (29-33-37- 46-54).
Work 7 (7-7-5-5-5) rows even.

from: www.bernat.com
and the free pattern called:
Dress with Kangaroo Pockets..

I am having problem with the Pockets.
Does that k44 next to slip next 44 sts onto a st holder means, I should CO bin backward loop 44 sts.

pls help me...

Thank you very much in advance..<god bless

[suzeeq]

You should have already made a little square of about 44 sts and put it on a holder. Then when you get to the row of the front, knit the first few sts, put the next 44 sts onto another holder, then knit the 44 sts of the square off it's holder and continue on with the row.

[leonora]

You should have already made a little square of about 44 sts and put it on a holder. Then when you get to the row of the front, knit the first few sts, put the next 44 sts onto another holder, then knit the 44 sts of the square off it's holder and continue on with the row.

I am still confused, sorry...you mean to say:
The 1st 27 Sts , I will just leave it and work the 44Sts into Square just enough the length of the Hand. Then afterwards if the size is enough wi put it on st holder. Is that the Pocket Lining? Where and how will I start the Pocket Flap?.. Sorry for my ignorance because I never did this before. Pls help me..
Thank you very much..

[leonora]

I am still confused, sorry...you mean to say:
The 1st 27 Sts , I will just leave it and work the 44Sts into Square just enough the length of the Hand. Then afterwards if the size is enough wi put it on st holder. Is that the Pocket Lining? Where and how will I start the Pocket Flap?.. Sorry for my ignorance because I never did this before. Pls help me..
Thank you very much..

Sorry again... Do I have to knit a separate 44Sts and make a Square , just enough size for the Hand, Is that the Pocket Lining????

[salmonmac]

http://www.bernat.com/newsletters/oc...tsandScarf.pdf
Yes, just before the directions for the front are directions for the pocket lining. You need to work 3inches on a separate cast on of 44sts to make a rectangle, the pocket lining. Then you're going to k27sts on the front of the dress, put the next 44sts onto a holder, use the same working yarn that you used to knit the 27sts to knit across the 44 pocket lining sts and finally knit 27sts. Follow the directions for the next 38rows. Then you'll be up to the pocket flap directions and finally a joining row for the front and the pocket flap.
Pretty dress pattern!

[suzeeq]

Sorry again... Do I have to knit a separate 44Sts and make a Square , just enough size for the Hand, Is that the Pocket Lining????

Yes, there should have been instructions in there to make Pocket Linings, just before the cast on for the sweater. That will tell you how long to make it.

[leonora]

http://www.bernat.com/newsletters/oc...tsandScarf.pdf
Yes, just before the directions for the front are directions for the pocket lining. You need to work 3inches on a separate cast on of 44sts to make a rectangle, the pocket lining. Then you're going to k27sts on the front of the dress, put the next 44sts onto a holder, use the same working yarn that you used to knit the 27sts to knit across the 44 pocket lining sts and finally knit 27sts. Follow the directions for the next 38rows. Then you'll be up to the pocket flap directions and finally a joining row for the front and the pocket flap.
Pretty dress pattern!

Thank you very much for your help...You know I haven't tried Kangaroo Pocket before..

I have some Handworks done on my blog maybe when you have time feel free to look for it..
God bless