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Old 01-23-2013, 03:56 PM   #11
GrumpyGramma
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You might want to see if you can get at least a rough gauge count with the needles and yarn you're using. Those needles seem small for that yarn, at least to me. Maybe the yarn they're referring to is on the skinny end of the worsted range. I'm using US 6 with Lion Brand Pound of Love and getting about 5.75 sts/inch. This yarn is skinny compared to other worsteds I've used.
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Old 01-23-2013, 04:05 PM   #12
dudeKnit
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It is rather skinny, I believe if I space out the stitches I'm getting 6 - 8 per inch. Too small?

Again I can post pics tonight, as long as I do it before I start knitting. Once that happens I'm done for the night.
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Old 01-23-2013, 04:15 PM   #13
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Originally Posted by suzeeq View Post
Actually you can get the same gauge on the same needle with different weights of yarn. I used double stranded lace weight on size 9s and got the same gauge as worsted on 9s. The thin yarn just makes a thinner fabric. Try it sometime - take some thin yarn and your size 9s and see if you get the same gauge as the doubled worsted (which would be a super super bulky so no wonder the sts were tight with 9s, needed an 11 or 13 for that weight).
I wouldn't get the same gauge now as I did then regardless. I've finally managed to teach myself how NOT to garrotte the needle... most of the time at least. But anyway.

What I was really getting at was Jan was using US 7s and worsted yarn and I was US 9 and bulky yarn and we were getting about the same number of stitches and probably working on about the same size hat. For Wendy (who's a very relaxed knitter) to match my gauge she'd have to drop at least 2, maybe 3 needle sizes from what I use given the same yarn. (And it used to be more like four sizes!)

I've also had at least one occasion where two yarns that were only slightly different (Plymouth Select and Cascade 220) gave me just enough difference in gauge that the same pattern fit in one yarn and not the other. And this wasn't just on the same size needles, it was the same actual needles. The Plymouth was springier and slightly thicker, and fit perfectly. The Cascade was just slightly thinner and came out too big. Not by much, but enough that we had to do some fidgie-widginess to draw it in a little. The lesson learned: Take Time To Save Time; ALWAYS Check Gauge! Maybe Mercury was in retrograde or something so it was a one-off, but...
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Old 01-23-2013, 04:24 PM   #14
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Garrotte the needle seems to be exactly my problem, even with the scarf. The whole stitch uniformity thread was pretty much about that I just couldn't explain it as well as the word garrotte describes it. Same thing with this project I believe my stitches are just too tight and closely spaced.

I'll definitely post some photos of the cast on row, how far should I go past that to gauge sizing, a few rounds?
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Old 01-23-2013, 04:26 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by dudeKnit View Post
It is rather skinny, I believe if I space out the stitches I'm getting 6 - 8 per inch. Too small?

Again I can post pics tonight, as long as I do it before I start knitting. Once that happens I'm done for the night.
I'd say, yes. I'm horrid at math but if they're getting 5.5 sts/in. and you're getting 8 sts/in, there is an appreciable difference.

108 / 5.5 = 19.6"
108 / 8 = 13.5"

Thank goodness for calculators!

I see two options: Do more stitches and adjust the decreases accordingly or use larger needles.


To gauge your stitch count accurately you'll probably need to work several inches. There is a video here about swatching in the round but I can't find it now. I have a really hard time finding the videos I need here. I'll try again and if I can find it and check back to give you the link.

ETA: Found it! On youtube I could search to find it. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ivCho4KvB3g
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Old 01-23-2013, 04:28 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by dudeKnit View Post
It is rather skinny, I believe if I space out the stitches I'm getting 6 - 8 per inch. Too small?

Again I can post pics tonight, as long as I do it before I start knitting. Once that happens I'm done for the night.
Small alarm goes off here when you say "space out the stitches". I'm not sure what you're saying here. If you mean stretching the swatch, that's not an altogether bad idea when you're doing a hat, because it'll be stretched when you wear it. But if you're counting the stitches while they're on the needle, you're not getting an accurate count. They'll be oriented differently once you've gotten them off the needle and you might actually be closer to the prescribed gauge than you think.

Plus there's a big difference between 6 and 8 stitches per inch. And that difference has a bigger effect the bigger the piece is. At 6 sts/in 108 sts gives you 18" at 8 sts/in it's only 13 1/2". At 5.5 it's 19.6" and at 5 you get 21.6" so if you're actually at 6 sts/in, your hat is 3.6" smaller than it would be at 5 sts/in. That's a long way to stretch, even if the hat is ribbed.

If you take that same difference and scale it up to a sweater, you get a Frankensweater that will house a small tribe of pygmies from an obscure island nation in the Pacific Rim. (Ask me how I know. )
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Old 01-23-2013, 04:30 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by GrumpyGramma View Post
I see two options: Do more stitches and adjust the decreases accordingly or use larger needles.
Larger needles. Definitely larger needles. :Dustin Hoffman:
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Old 01-23-2013, 05:03 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by dudeKnit View Post
Garrotte the needle seems to be exactly my problem, even with the scarf. The whole stitch uniformity thread was pretty much about that I just couldn't explain it as well as the word garrotte describes it. Same thing with this project I believe my stitches are just too tight and closely spaced.
It's a common difficulty, especially when you're just starting out. I think it must come from trying to hold all that stuff together and do all that other stuff at the same time. Plus, there's a natural tendency to wrap the yarn tight around the needle to make sure the stitch is the "right size".

What finally(!) worked for me was letting the working yarn rest in the "pocket" where the two needles cross and not trying to pull it any further beyond that point before pulling the needle tip through to make the stitch. And it was (and sometimes still is) HARD. I'd gotten used to that comforting "clink" (or "click") the needles made against each other when the yarn snapped through that gap and it was a little unnerving to not have that indicator that everything was were it was supposed to be. But once you've gotten that rhythm into muscle memory, and realize how much easier everything ELSE is because of it, you'll be a lot happier. Not to mention faster.

Quote:
I'll definitely post some photos of the cast on row, how far should I go past that to gauge sizing, a few rounds?
Yeah, the cast on round won't tell you much as far as gauge goes. As for how many rounds you'd want to go... you'll probably get a different answer from everybody. I'd say at a minimum you need enough to get the fabric to lay flat so you can measure it. The "usual" gauge swatch is 4" x 4", but you're probably not too awfully concerned with the number of rounds per inch. If it's a little long, no biggie. Besides which, by the time you have 4" of hat you're almost halfway done with most hats anyway.
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Old 01-23-2013, 05:09 PM   #19
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I could go larger, I don't have larger DPN's though and sorta had my heart set on doing that method vs working from a circle. I did pick up an interchangable kit at LYS wife wasn't too keen on that $90 later, but it does have the equivalent of 21 needles vs $10 per needle set.
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Old 01-23-2013, 05:20 PM   #20
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I'm a loose knitter and a US 5 is too tight for me really with #4 medium weight yarn.

Yes, everyone's gauge is different, but if we know the basics of what you're doing it helps to diagnose problems. I'd measure your gauge and if its too many spi then try going up a needle size or two.
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