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Old 02-08-2013, 06:00 AM   #11
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Lots of videos for putting stitches on waste yarn, not any for slipping stitches off waste yarn. I try to use a thinner cotton yarn as waste yarn because it makes the stitches easier to slide. I've seen dental floss suggested but haven't tried that yet. Since the stitches are slipped off purlwise, I put them back on the needle purlwise while the waste yarn is still there. You can pull the waste yarn out at the end or after several stitches have been slipped to the needle. If the waste yarn gets hung up, just cut it and continue to pull it through. Sometimes it helps to put a little tension on the waste yarn by holding both ends so that it seems more like another needle and less loose and floppy. However, this requires creative use of several fingers or a third hand.
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Old 02-08-2013, 10:07 AM   #12
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Similar to others, I often use crochet thread; then after I try it on, I leave it for a lifeline and a marker because generally it is marking an important part of the pattern.

Before you start moving your stitches to waste yarn, make sure you mark your first stitch in some way. I usually start the waste yarn at the first stitch, so the tails of the waste yarn are hanging out of the "gap" between the first and last stitch of the round. BUT if you don't do this, then definitely mark your first stitch in some way.
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Old 02-08-2013, 11:21 AM   #13
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I don't have any thinner lighter cotton yarn to use. I have some dark sock yarn. That might work. The waste yarn I was using is much thicker than the yarn I'm knitting with. I haven't done the try on yet so I can look for other yarn. I'm knitting with sport weight and have the sleeves on heavy worsted. You are right that I should use something thinner if I need to get the needle in along with the waste yarn. I just figured I'd need the waste yarn a sufficiently different color so I could see it, and I don't really have that, and thinner, on hand just now.
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Old 02-08-2013, 11:26 AM   #14
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If you don't have other (smaller) circulars you can use, get some unwaxed, unflavored dental floss to use.
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Old 02-08-2013, 11:31 AM   #15
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When I go to put the stitches back on, can I use a smaller size but larger circular and then knit off that with the regular size? I'm trying to see how what I'm knitting on a 32" will fit in a circle on a 40", but I have small sizes in 40 inches and I'm knitting with size 5. Can you knit in the round from one circular to another? And of different sizes without screwing up the gauge on that round?
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Old 02-08-2013, 11:52 AM   #16
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Yes, that's what I do. I put the stitches on the smaller size circular - if it's short, I use 2 - then I can knit right off them without fiddling around with scrap yarn. Just use the correct size in your right hand when you knit off the others, that's the one that determines the gauge and size of stitches.
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Old 02-08-2013, 06:24 PM   #17
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I just wanted to add that you don't have to put all the stitches on another circ, you can leave some on your working needle, then just slip the rest of them onto one or two others. Whatever you need so the stitches won't fall off the ends; that way your working circ is ready to start knitting again.
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Old 02-08-2013, 07:04 PM   #18
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Sad Seamless Rant
I hate admitting this to people because they never seem to understand, but I just dread top-down sweaters.
Trying them on has never been easy for me like I was promised at my LYS. The sweater, at least in my experience, is never the size it will be once it comes off the needles. This makes it very hard for me to actually tell anything from trying it on.
And then there is the problem of trudging through knitting back onto the needle.
The worst part of top-down knitting is this ever-increasing blob of knitting in my lap that seems to so much more easily pick up cat hair and crumbs. I seem to always take on one of these in the summer, which is dreadful, it's so heavy.
I much prefer my little pieces that I can take with me in my purse, and will lie politely in a small controllable area so they stay clean.
Then I can seam them up, which I love to do, and there's never any twisting around the torso.
I really love fair isle and icelandic sweaters so I know I need to get over this, but it's hard. Any advice would be appreciated.
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Old 02-08-2013, 07:14 PM   #19
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I know what you mean. There's also something very nice about the shaping in seamed sweaters that most one piece knits don't have. That said, I do enjoy bottom-up yoked sweaters. Once you get to the yoke, all the rounds decrease and that seems like lots of fun. You do have the problem of the big blob in your lap though. That doesn't change.
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Old 02-08-2013, 07:29 PM   #20
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I, on the other hand, try to avoid too much seaming and sewing, having never learned how to sew, so I do as much in the round as I can.

So -- I did it. I put the stitches on waste yarn, tried it on, and put them back. It was the most nerve-wracking, tedious thing I've ever done, and I will never do it again!! I'm sure it didn't help that I am knitting with sport weight dark blue yarn and used black sock yarn for the waste yarn but woooooaaahhh! That was hard. There has got to be a better way. I will definitely try some 60" circs next time (once I get some of those).
I am afraid to put more than one fixed circular together to try it on because I'm sure something will fall out and I'll drop stitches.
This sweater is just going to have to fit without me trying it on again!
The one good thing in all of this is that I finally finished the sock I was working on. It only took 2 1/2 years........
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