Here are my pattern notes for the Leafy Lace Cardi.
Feel free to email me if you find any errors, have any questions or need help upsizing or downsizing the pattern. Thanks.
LEAFY LACE CARDI
***Please refer to notes at end of pattern before starting***
Finished measurements, measured flat and buttoned:
Across body at underarms, 17"
Ridged Eyelet Border measured across, 15 1/2"
Shoulder to sleeve cuff, 13 1/2"
Shoulder to hem, 19"
Ribbed waist hem length, 3 1/2"
Sleeve cuff hem length, 1 3/4"
Yarn and Button requirements:
I used Rowan Cotton Glace which is 100% cotton and knits to a
recommended tension of 23 sts and 32 rows to 10cm (4") on 3.25
- 3.75mm (US #3 - 5) needles. I'm not sure how much yarn I
used but would guess 7 or 8 balls, each being approximately
115 metres (125 yds) in length. 6 buttons, or more or less as
1 pair of 3mm (*no US equivalent, use #2 or #3*) and 1 pair
of 3.5mm (#4) needles. Use circulars if preferred.
26 sts and 29 rows to 4", unblocked, on 3.5mm (#4) needles.
Leafy Lace Pattern
(Multiple of 10 + 1)
***Note: KB1 = Knit into back of next stitch***
1) (right side) KB1, *p9, KB1; rep from * to end.
2) P1, *k9, p1; rep from * to end.
Rep the last 2 rows once more.
5) KB1, *p2, p2tog, yon, KB1, yfrn, p2tog, p2, KB1; rep from * to end.
6) P1, *k4, PB1, k4, p1; rep from * to end.
7) KB1, *p1, p2tog, yon, [KB1] 3 times, yfrn, p2tog, p1, KB1; rep from * to end.
8) P1, *k3, [PB1] 3 times, k3, p1; rep from * to end.
9) KB1, *p2tog, yon, [KB1] 5 times, yfrn, p2tog, KB1; rep from * to end.
10) P1, *k2, [PB1] 5 times, k2, p1; rep from * to end.
11) KB1, *p1, yon, [KB1] twice, sl 1, k2tog, psso, [KB1] twice, yfrn, p1, KB1, rep from * to end.
12) As 10th row.
13) KB1, *p2, yon, KB1, sl 1, k2tog, psso, KB1, yfrn, p2, KB1; rep from * to end.
14) As 8th row.
15) KB1, *p3, yon, sl 1, k2tog, psso, yfrn, p3, KB1, rep from * to end.
16) As 6th row.
Rep these 16 rows.
Ridged Eyelet Border
(Multiple of 2 + 1)
1st, 2nd and 3rd rows: Knit.
4th row (wrong side): *p2tog, yrn; rep from * to last st, p1.
5th, 6th and 7th rows: Knit.
8th row: Purl.
Using 3mm needles, cast on 97 sts. Work in k1, p1 rib for 3 1/2 inches (see note 1 at
end of pattern), ending on WS row, and increasing 4 stitches evenly across this row.
(***Read note 2 at end of pattern before continuing***)
Change to 3.5mm needles and knit Ridged Eyelet Border.
Start Leafy Lace pattern. Knit to desired length (mine is around 11 1/2 inches, including
ribbing), ending on a WS rows, then shape armholes as follows:
Bind off 5 sts at beginning of next 2 rows, then decrease 1st st at each end of every
following alternate row 6 times, to 79 sts. Work even until armhole measures approximately
7 3/4 inches, or desired length, ending on a WS row.
Shape shoulders by binding off 11 sts at beginning of next 4 rows. Bind off remaining 35 sts,
Using 3mm needles, cast on 47 stitches. Work in K1, P1 rib until length matches that of back
ribbing, increasing four stitches evenly across last WS row giving a total of 51 sts.
Change to 3.5mm needles and knit Ridged Eyelet Border.
Start Leafy Lace pattern working until front measures back to beginning of armhole shaping,
then decrease for armhole as on back: 5 sts once (on WS row), then 1 st on same end of
every alternate row, 6 times. At the same time, start shaping the neck by decreasing 1 st at
neck edge of next row, then 1 st at same edge of every following 3rd row 10 times (you should
now have 29 sts), then 1 st at same edge every following 2nd row 7 times, to 22 sts.
(***It's a good idea to mark the beginning of the neck shaping with scrap yarn so as
to make it easier to place the button holes later ***) If necessary, work straight until
armhole measures same as that of back, then shape shoulder as for back.
Work same as right front, reversing shaping.
Using 3mm needles, cast on 48 sts. Work in K1, P1 rib for 1 3/4 inches, or desired length,
increasing three stitches evenly across last wrong side row to 51 sts.
Change to 3.5mm needles and commence Leafy Lace pattern, increasing 1 st at each end of every
7th row 7 times, to 65 stitches. If necessary, work even until sleeve is 8 inches long (or desired
length), excluding ribbing, ending on a WS row. Shape cap by binding off 5 sts at the
beginning of the next 2 rows, then dec 1 st at each end of every following 2nd row 5 times
(you should now have 45 sts left), 1 st at each end of every 3rd row 2 times (41 sts left),
then 1 st at each end of every 2nd row 10 times. Bind off remaining 21 sts, loosely.
Block pieces using preferred method, and sew in loose ends.
Join shoulder seams.
With right side of work facing, using 3mm needles and starting at lower right front, pick up
and knit 92 stitches along front edge to shoulder, 27 stitches across back of neck, and 92 stitches
down left front edge to bottom of ribbed band. (See note 3 at end of pattern) Work two rows
K1, P1 rib. Make button holes on the next row in desired position, marking opposite side of
band to indicate where buttons will go. (See note 4 at end of pattern) Work a further 3 rows
K1, P1 rib. Cast off. Attach buttons.
Set in sleeves, and sew sleeve and side seams.
Make a twisted cord to thread through eyelets at waist. I found I had to start with far more yarn
than when using wool, and ended up using four lengths of yarn, each 160 inches long.
Alternatively, make an I-cord, crochet cord or thread ribbon through the eyelets.
1) When I designed this I had in mind wearing it over a summer dress. Those wanting to
wear it with a skirt or pants might like to add two or three inches to the ribbing, and if
desired lengthen the ribbing on the sleeves proportionately.
2) I went from ribbing straight into the Ridged Eyelet Border. It looks fine, however
if you'd like a mirrored image try knitting a couple of rows of stockinette after the ribbing
and before commencing the Ridged Eyelet Border.
3) Depending upon the length of your cardigan, you may need to pick up more or less stitches.
4) I used 6 buttons, with the last one being attached just below the Ridged Eyelet Border. The band
doesn't gape even with all of the buttons done up but I doubt I'll wear it that way, so less buttons
would have worked. A button can also be attached a 1/2 an inch or so above the hem line if desired.
***The one stitch discrepancy between front and back is to keep the stitch count consistent throughout
the lace pattern***