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Old 11-19-2010, 06:27 AM   #1
boyforpele13
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help with pattern instruction
can't link pattern, from book, but here's a pic if it helps:



I'm working the front at the neck shaping. Basically, it has you knit across half the front, stop, and then start working back and forth just over those 47 sts until it measures 8" from beg of armhole, got that no problem. The next part is where I'm having some trouble, hopefully it's okay for me to copy this much of it. It has you slip 8 sts to a holder at the neck edge and then:

Decrease one st at the neck edge of next and every foll row until there are 32 sts. Cont without shaping in g. st until armhole measures 10-1/2 from start of armhole shaping ending wiht a wrong side row. Cast off.

I know the neck edge is the inside part, but would I really do *every* row or just the following RS rows? I thought for sure it meant every other row since that's typical for shaping, but when I finished the shaping, I am EXACTLY at 10-1/2" from the start of armhole shaping without any g. st so now I'm afraid I was supposed to do it more rapidly.

ETA: I should add that line of decreases will be picked up later to make the hood and just eyeballing it (it's supposed to be 12 sts picked up) it looks like I don't have enough room to pick up 12 sts or it's going to be very snug.... thanks again!

Thanks in advance!
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Old 11-19-2010, 09:04 AM   #2
MerigoldinWA
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I think from the way it is written:
Quote:
Decrease one st at the neck edge of next and every foll row
that you should do it every time you are at the neck edge, coming and going. But if what you have seems like it will work and seems reasonable, you could try that.
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Old 11-19-2010, 09:32 AM   #3
hyperactive
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so when you get to the 1.5 inches: how many stitches are left for you? 32? Then you are probably right. This "continue without shaping" often only makes you get to the correct length, even if your gauge was off by a bit.

Other question: how many rows to the inch?

to get from 47 st to 32 st. that is 15 decreases. Now, doing it every 2 rows that would be 30 rows. Sounds good to me.
doing it every row (as that reads)... that is only 15 rows.

If you can fit your head in and like the shape... just do both sides the same way and you are fine.
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Old 11-19-2010, 07:39 PM   #4
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Thanks both of you!

My row gauge is spot on, just about 5-1/2 rows/inch, but my stitch gauge was too big, so I made a smaller size because I liked the fabric I was getting with the size 10.

I was always taught not to do decreases on top of each other, which is why I was hesitating to do them "coming and going" (fantastic way to describe that, I couldn't figure out how to say it :P) I went ahead and did them how I'm accustomed with the exact length being done right when I finished the decrease rows and realized the last sweater fronts I did were exactly like that too, as soon as I finished neck/shoulder shaping, I was done. I realized after doing the 3-needle bind off and picking up for the hood that it's all going to be covered up by the hood anyway, so I'm in good shape.

Thanks very much!
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Old 11-19-2010, 07:53 PM   #5
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Quote:
I was always taught not to do decreases on top of each other,
Why not? You usually have to for shaping something. If you're just decreasing here and there, it's less noticeable if you don't stack them, but for things like a raglan or a neckline, you need to do them in the same place or you won't get the shaping right.
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Old 11-19-2010, 08:10 PM   #6
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I guess because it makes them more visible when you're decreasing on top of one another? Because it would be like K x sts, decrease, k1, turn; k1, decrease, k to end and it would become a pile of ugly decreases, no? Maybe because this is a heavier yarn with a larger gauge, too, I was worried it would be really obvious (before I realized the hood would completely cover it anyway.) The shaping seems to look just right with the hood doing only the RS rows, though, although I had to fudge the picking up quite a bit, but that's a chronic problem for me.

I don't know why, though, really, that's just what I was told. I've yet to encounter a pattern that has them explicitly written that way, usually it's "on next and every following RS row" but this is only my second neck shaping I've ever done too.

I have another question while I'm at it, though. Any reason not to do a 3-needle bind-off for the hood? It's worked flat back and forth with some increases yada yada for 13-1/2 inches, then the make-up instructions say to seam it but I don't see why I couldn't just split the stitches on the bind off row as if I was doing magic loop (assuming I smash the right sides together, of course) and do a 3-needle bind-off? Sounds right in theory and it came out lovely on the shoulders.... Thanks again!
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Old 11-19-2010, 08:21 PM   #7
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I realize my camera phone takes horrendous pictures, but hopefully you can tell here. Do you think I should back it out and do the quicker decreases or is it okay?

Thanks again!





What I'm thinking now that I see it in photos is the more rapid decreases would have made a sharper V-neck, which I've lost a bit in doing it every other row, is that right?

ETA: Since the quality is so bad, you can't see where the decreases are anyway, the pattern in this section was like, transfer X stitches to a holder, then do aforementioned neck edge decreases, continue without shaping, bind off (I did a 3-needle bind off instead.) Then the hood was like: With right side facing beginning at right front (left in picture), knit X held stitches, PU and K X stitches, knit across X held back stitches, PU and K X sts, K X held stitches
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Old 11-20-2010, 12:09 AM   #8
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Quote:
What I'm thinking now that I see it in photos is the more rapid decreases would have made a sharper V-neck, which I've lost a bit in doing it every other row, is that right?
Exactly right, that's the reason for decreasing every row, to get more of a V. Whether you prefer that way, or the way you've done it is up to you. It's perfectly fine to modify a pattern if you would like something else. Some decreases look okay if you do them every row in the same place others don't. Technically, they're not really in the same spot, because the dec moves over a stitch every row because of the decrease on the previous row. If you follow what I mean....

As to the hood and 3 needle BO, that's a great way to avoid sewing up. It makes just as sturdy a seam so go for it.
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