I agree with Rochester Knitter that it is easier to pick up the stitches with the right hand needle and put them on the left hand needle to be worked. If you worked in St st and you are looking at the back side, the Rev St st the stitches will look like this
n
n
n
n
n
n
Starting right under the needle. There is other stuff going on, but don't look at that.
Look right under the loop on the needle and see the slightly upside down u shaped bump, the "n". Right under it there is another and under that another. Start counting at the one right under the needle. That is #1 and count down to the 6th one.
Keeping the working yarn out of your way stick the tip of your RHN into the 6th bump from above it pointing down, just go under that one little strand of yarn and have the needle tip come back out on the front side of the piece just below the 6th bump. IOW down behind the bump and out in front of it. Move your RHN up so that you can transfer that stitch loop onto the LHN. Do that so that the loop goes onto the needle without twisting or anything, straight on with both needle tips facing toward each other. Purl the new loop together with the next stitch.
For a novice all those bumps are hard to deal with. I also noticed as I worked this on a sample that the bumps are a little harder to see as you come to them each time because of the way the work is folding up. If you have light enough yarn and some kind of marker (a quilting marker that erases with water would be perfect) that had no chance of bleeding through and ruining things, you could go across the whole row and mark the bumps you will want to pick up with a tiny mark so that you could identify them easily as you work across the row.
The very first purl bump in the row is tricky as well. I would find it by looking at the next stitch on the needle, following its bump down 6 bumps and guessing which of the things going along the edge there was the closest to that and work the first stitch there.
Reassurance: It will not be the end of the world if you used the 5th or the 7th purl bump but you do want to use the same bump all the way across.
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Oh,and one more quick Q, to make doubly sure I'm at the stage in the pattern where I think I am...when a pattern says work in St st until work measures 8 inches...is that a loose 8 inches or a pulled tight 8 inches. Currently, if I just let the work hang straight down and put a cloth tape measure up the centre, its just over 7 inches. But if I give it a bit of tension and stretch it, it is 8 inches.
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On this question... this is for a bottle and from the picture of the bottle cover I'd say the exact length is not critical. Are all such bottles made the same even? Whichever length you like would probably do, or somewhere in the middle for a nice compromise.
If I was doing it I probably would smooth it out a bit, but not stretch it.
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