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Old 06-24-2012, 03:29 PM   #11
suziekate
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Right okay, how exactly would I 'flatten it out'? do you mean just to measure it on the needles and make sure its flat? sorry i'm being really slow! but you wouldn't be able to completely flatten it unless you took it off the needles? thanks!
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Old 06-24-2012, 03:31 PM   #12
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also, once i've worked out how many stitches per inch how can i work out if this is right when in the pattern it has only the amount of stitches and rows intended for a swatch not the actually thing? basically how do i use the stitches per inch info? thanks!!
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Old 06-24-2012, 05:13 PM   #13
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You can put the sts on some scrap yarn or thread, or make it long enough you can measure the lower edge. If you have longer needles you can pull a loop of the cord out opposite the tips to sort of flatten it.

Your sts per inch should match the gauge for sts over 4" given in the pattern - that's the 'swatch'. So if it says 24 sts in 4" that's 6 sts per inch. If you have 22 sts, they're too big and you need to use a larger needle. if you have 28 sts in 4" they're too small and you need a larger needle. The rows or rounds aren't quite as important to match as the sts, because the lengths are given as a measurment, so you just work however many you need for the inches given.
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Old 06-25-2012, 05:59 AM   #14
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Originally Posted by suziekate View Post
also, once i've worked out how many stitches per inch how can i work out if this is right when in the pattern it has only the amount of stitches and rows intended for a swatch not the actually thing? basically how do i use the stitches per inch info? thanks!!
Most patterns give you the gauge that you need to make the item (so many sts per inch) and tell you which stitch to use to make your swatch (stockinette stitch or pattern stitch). Use whatever the pattern directs for the gauge swatch. If the pattern doesn't say, use the pattern stitch. In your case, it would be the cables. Cast on enough sts to give you at least 4 inches or 10cm. This is an estimate but more is better.
Once you know the sts/inch that you get with your yarn and needles, you can adjust the needle size as Sue mentioned (in the example of 22sts/4inches you would go to a smaller needle) until you get close to the required gauge. The pattern will give you the number of sts to cast on for the item and then follow their instructions.
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Old 06-25-2012, 03:50 PM   #15
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Oh dear I find all this very confusing! Did you guys work it all out yourselves?! I still don't understand about flattening out, I'm now talking about my knitting in the round, not the cabled hottie, so obviously the knitting is circular! ...?

I've also come across another problem with my circular knitting, that when I do a row of purl then a row of knit in order to create stocking stitch it appears as garter stitch and when I do 2 rows of knit in order to create garter stitch it appears as stocking stitch! what is going on? also are 'twin pins' the same as circular needles? and is the length of the wire between the two needles as crucial to the tension/project as the width of the actual needle with circular knitting?

As I am trying to make a hat would you suggest just going for it rather than doing a tension swatch for a hat?

Sorry, so many questions!
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Old 06-25-2012, 04:14 PM   #16
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I just meant 'flatten' it slightly so you can get a good measurement. Take the needles out if you want, but it's harder to be accurate when it's still on the circs and might be a little lumpy.

When you work in the round you don't turn to knit on the other side, so to get garter stitch you have to alternate a purl round with a knit round. Stockinette stitch in the round is just knitting all the rounds because you always work on the RS.

Yes, 'twin pins' is what you call circular needles over there, and the length is measured tip to tip, not just the cord. You can work a hat on 40cm needles, but would still have to use dpns or longer ones (in magic loop) for the top part when you decrease stitches. You can use a longer one all the way through using magic loop or single loop, and needles from 60 to 90 cm long.

Finally - yeah, just cast on for the hat and work a few inches, then measure your gauge. It'll be a lot easier to 'flatten' it out with a larger piece.
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Old 06-26-2012, 12:14 PM   #17
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Okay thanks, I think i will leave it on the needles but just make sure its as flat as I can, I don't feel confident to take it off the needles and put it back on again!

Thanks, I understand now about how to get stocking stitch!

What is 'magic loop' and 'single loop'?

thanks!
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Old 06-26-2012, 01:28 PM   #18
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The 'loops' are ways to make a long circular shorter by pulling the cord out partway along the sts. ML is shown here, and this is single loop. That way you can knit a small number of stitches in the round without using dpns.
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Old 06-26-2012, 01:58 PM   #19
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Hmmm but if I use the right length cord I wouldn't have to do that?
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Old 06-26-2012, 02:10 PM   #20
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That's right. But say you use a 16" needle for a hat - after you do a couple decrease rounds at the top, your sts won't fit around the needle any more. So you can add a second circular and knit with both, switch to dpns, or use a longer needle by itself and loop it. The page I linked to for magic loop also shows how to knit with 2 circs.
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