the dreaded divide for VEE NECK

[DavidSydney63]

OK - so I've got down to 36 sts and I'm confused which decrease(s) to drop off so that "then in every full 4th row until 27 sts" is done correctly.

I arrived at 36 sts the row after the row with the CF4 instruction (so that's rows 2).

[suzeeq]

It's only the neck decreases you're working with at this time you finished the armhole decs a while back. Instead of doing them every other row as you have been you do them every 4th row. So mark the last dec at the neck, then on the 4th row after that do another.

[DavidSydney63]

I'd just like to stand on a big pedestal and shout to the world that the experts on this forum are the world's nicest people. In particular suzeeq whose worth her WEIGHT in gold!

To one and all, a Merry Christmas.

David from Sydney

xoxo

[Jan in CA]

I couldn't help with this so I knew Sue would have your answers.

[DavidSydney63]

So now I've cast off and have to do "the mirror image" for the other side of the vee neck.

The Pattern (verbatim):

1st row - P3, C4F, P6 knit to last 2, K2tog
2nd row - P2tog, purl to last 13, K6, P4, K3
3rd row - P3, K4, P6, sl 1, K1, peso, knit to last 2, K2tog
4th row - P2tog, purl to last 13, K6 P4, K3.

BUT I'm slightly confused exactly which decreases to knock off to make it the same (but mirror) as before, advice appreciated.

[suzeeq]

On the first 3 rows you would do the ones at the armhole edge and the one on Row 2 which is the neck edge - purl to last 15 sts, p2tog and work the cable stitches. The p2tog on R 4 is at the neck edge and you keep that there.

BTW, you can do all the decs on the RS row, no need to do purl decs at all. Reverse shaping just means to work the decs at the other edge, it doesn't have to mean you work them on the other side (as in RS/WS).

[GrumpyGramma]

Just a note from my personal experience that you might/might not find helpful. When I work two fronts (or sleeves, or pockets, or.....) I work them at the same time. I cast on with 2 balls of yarn or work from both ends of one. Then when I work a decrease on one side, say for the armhole, I work the matching decrease when I work the other side. If I have a decrease at the arm and neck on the same row, I will be able to do the matching set on the second piece and don't have to keep track of where I am and when did I do this way back on the first piece. Bonus: if I make a mistake and don't catch it until later I at least have matching mistakes and sometimes they don't really matter that much as long as the two pieces match. Here's hoping you or someone might find this helpful.

[DavidSydney63]

Suz, thanks. Grumpy, good advice

[DavidSydney63]

Hey Grumpy - actually, the cable was the easiest part of the process really. Keeping the vee neck on track was much more difficult.

[Marie743]

Where can I get this pattern?