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Old 02-20-2013, 05:42 PM   #31
jinxnit55
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Wait! I think I have it now...I wasn't wrapping the yarn around and cinching it tight!
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Old 02-20-2013, 05:44 PM   #32
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How long are your needles and how many stitches do you have? If your needles are too long for the stitches, you'll have to 'shorten' the cord by pulling out a loop of it about 2/3 of the way around so the stitches will be on the ends in order to 'join'.
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Old 02-20-2013, 06:04 PM   #33
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If you knit a few rounds, you can tighten up the stitch where you joined and it should be fine. Until the end is woven in the stitch will tend to loosen.
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Old 02-20-2013, 09:34 PM   #34
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When joining in the round, this is what I do for that first stitch. I knit the first stitch with both the working yarn and the tail. I drop the tail and finish the round as usual with the working yarn. When I begin round 2, I have a double stitch now for that first one. I knit the two of them (working yarn and tail yarn) stitches together. Pull the tail tight. This closes up the gap. Pull the tail tight again for rounds three and four. After that, you don't have to. Continue knitting around and around and you will have no gap. To avoid ladders when switching needles, move the first stitch as close to the tip of the needle as you can get without it's falling off. Then knit as usual. The needle tips are tapered. Knitting that first stitch near the tip makes the stitch smaller and tightens it. Pull the yarn as tightly as you can while making that first stitch or two, then relax and finish the stitches on the left needle as normal. This works for both double pointed and circular needles using magic loop.

Another thing no one ever told me. I had to figure this out for myself because none of the magic loop or double point instruction videos tell you this. Always be sure your working yarn is coming from inside the tube or BETWEEN the two needles, not from behind the back one. If you place the working yarn behind the back needle, you will get an unwanted yarn over at the end. This will give you an unsightly huge gap where the work joins. Always be sure the yarn is placed BETWEEN the two needles when switching from one needle to the next.
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Old 02-21-2013, 10:07 PM   #35
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Okay, I guess I am sort of a dingbat! I have a 16 in circular needle, and the yarn I have is very chunky velour-like baby Bernat. I tried casting on 60 stitches, and it was easy to join initially, but then it would become sort of "unjoined." with a longer and longer piece of yarn that I wound up pulling through every stitch. Did this, frogged, and started over a few times. I then got a good join and knitted quite a bit. It then became apparent that the finished "hat" would be the size of a hula hoop! So then I just cast on 45 stitches, but had great difficulty stitching around because they got spread way out, and I had to DRAG them up the needles for each stitch. Not fun, and my hands (which seem to be a real weak link in this knitting thing) were hurting. The bases of my thumbs hurt so much I actually put a microwave corn bag on them so I can fall asleep.
I then tried a smaller needle (12 in., I think) and the hat looked too small, and it was sort of cumbersome to knit. I think I need a needle size that falls between the two. I really think it's just an equipment issue. I also got the book "Circular Knitting Workshop," so that will help as well as the input from the 'collective knitting brain!"
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Old 02-21-2013, 10:11 PM   #36
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I think this is something that was happening and accounted for several of the times when things came "unjoined." I can see that I just have to experiment and find the stuff that works. I now have a needle that is 29 in. and I will try Magic Loop next.
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Old 02-21-2013, 10:15 PM   #37
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What's funny is that the cable was actually doing this by itself (protruding out) part of the time, and I would do my best to push it back in. D'oh! It never occurred to me to just let it hang out! Live and learn! "Tomorrow is another knitting day!"
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Old 02-21-2013, 10:31 PM   #38
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What cast on are you using?
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Old 02-21-2013, 10:48 PM   #39
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Originally Posted by jinxnit55 View Post
I have a 16 in circular needle, and the yarn I have is very chunky velour-like baby Bernat. I tried casting on 60 stitches, and it was easy to join initially, but then it would become sort of "unjoined."
Once you have joined you will just keep knitting around and the rows will lay on top of each other, so you shouldn't be coming "unjoined" once you have a few rows done. Was the cast on just a bit loose?

Originally Posted by jinxnit55 View Post
...with a longer and longer piece of yarn that I wound up pulling through every stitch.
It sounds like you may have tried to knit with something other than the working yarn because you shouldn't be pulling up any more yarn than what's needed to form the stitch. Sometimes if I've used the longtail cast on I will try to knit with the leftover tail and I pull a loose string through, but its an easy fix to undo those stitches and pick up the working yarn.

Originally Posted by jinxnit55 View Post
Did this, frogged, and started over a few times. I then got a good join and knitted quite a bit. It then became apparent that the finished "hat" would be the size of a hula hoop! So then I just cast on 45 stitches, but had great difficulty stitching around because they got spread way out, and I had to DRAG them up the needles for each stitch.
I then tried a smaller needle (12 in., I think) and the hat looked too small, and it was sort of cumbersome to knit. I think I need a needle size that falls between the two.
I'm probably misinterpreting what you have written but it may be that your project is longer than you want. Are you knitting from a pattern? Can you post a link if you are?
If your project really is wider than you wanted then you are probably adding in extra stitches when you didn't mean to. If you want to maintain sixty stitches without any increases, one thing you can try is adding some stitch markers. You could do one stitch marker every ten stitches for example, with an initial marker that marks your first stitch. This way you always know where your new row starts. Then as you knit up you can check to make sure there are only ten stitches between each marker. This is what I do anyway.
Forty-five stitches should be put on dpns I think. If you don't feel comfortable with those, then you should check out the magic loop technique.
Are you knitting a hat for an adult or a child? There are many free patterns on Ravelry for bulky yarn. The pattern can help give a starting point for what needle size to try and with what stitch count. The baby hats can be great practice for circular knitting as they are fast.
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Old 02-21-2013, 11:11 PM   #40
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I was wondering if she's using backward loop cast on. That one is only good for a few stitches not a whole hats worth..
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