Fibrenut from ASKAL here, I too started out on a Schact 2.2 spindle. I was getting totally frustrated with it (spinning overspun cat puke). I was pre drafting the heck out of my yarn. I thought that's what one was supposed to do, predraft to the thickness you wanted and then add twist. Well that's all fine n good if you want thick yarn n all (like lopi yarn) but it was stiff, not consistent and well, cat puke.
I was reading the posts on "spinner central" on ravelry (read all of abbys posts if you can. That lady is a well of information when it comes to anything fiberfied). Also, there is a lady just down the street who belongs to the local weavers and spinners guild, both of em basically said that you can loosen up the fibers before spinning but don't predraft to the point of just finished yarn. Draft as you go. I have been spinning from prepared top roving (the kind that's all slick n perty n comes usually in a ball called a "bump") all the fibers are alligned.
So basically, all I do now is to strip the roving into two pieces. (One for each ply) and then tear them off into more manageable lengths (about 18-24 inches) wrap the excess around my wrist that I hold the fiber in (usually my left hand)
then I attach the fiber to my leader and spin the first part by barely holding the fiber in my left through my hand and sort of tensioning it with my pinkie and controlling the twist by pinching with my thumb and forefinger (don't want that twist travelling up into the mass in your hand or you'll be fighting it fer sure.
If you are parking and drafting, pinch off the twist with your left hand and at the same time give the spindle a nice twirl in the clockwise direction, let some twist build up between the spindle and your hand where you have it pinched off (no you don't have to hold it like a snake about to bite you, just enough to keep the twist from travelling up into the mass of fiber and to keep the fiber from breaking off) it'll be about 6-8 inches between your pinching and the spindle (room enough for your other hand to control the drafting) Now stop the spindle and park it between your knees, take your right hand and pinch just below where you have a hold of the fiber in your left, release your pinch from your left hand and pull your fiber with your right til you feel the fiber give and about half to two thirds length of the staple (the actual length of each fiber in the roving, to find this just grab the end of the roving before you start spinning and pull til you have a piece seperate from the rest. The length of the pull off piece is your staple length.) Now that you've drafted some from your left, pinch again with the left before you let go of the right, and let the twist travel up into that little bit you just pulled out. Pinch with your left hand again to keep the twist from travelling and repeat til you don't get as much twist as you want, then pinch it off with your fiber hand, release from the hook, wind on and repeat.
If you want really thin yarn, just pull it so that it's about twice as thick as you want your final single to be. So let's say you want to make sock yarn weight, grab just enough fiber with your right hand so that when you pull it it's twice the thickness of sock yarn, then when the twist hits it it'll shrink up to sock yarn size. Same with thicker yarns.
Sometimes the fiber will bunch up in your left hand, don't worry about that, sometimes the twist will grab some fibers that are deeper but that's ok, you are controlling what gets twisted by alternating between pinching your left and your right hands. With more experience and practice (lots of practice) you'll be able to do this on the fly, by that you can spin the spindle, let it spin n dangle and at the same time draft. The secret to consistent singles is all in the drafting, not how much a spindle weighs or how fast or long you can get it to spin, you can always flick it again when it starts slowing down.
Lighter spindles do help when it comes to spinning thinner singles because there is less stress on the single. Plying is good on a heavier spindle because you need the little bit of extra weight to help go against the already spun singles (you'll ply in the opposite direction in which you spun your single) they are also good with the thicker yarns as well because they need that extra little momentum. Not to mention the whorls usually are bigger on heavier spindles and you can get more onto them.
I like using my 2.2 for plying. I have a 1 oz. spindle from spinsanity that I do most of my spinning of singles on.
Next thing you'll wanna learn is the different methods of finishing your yarn and different ways of plying (2-ply, boucle, different weight singles, chain ply or more commonly called Navajo ply, etc.) Spinning is sooo much fun and almost as addictive as knitting sox if not more so. LOL
Sorry for the WAY WAY long reply. I hope it's helped ya a little bit.