SYLVI-KAL: The Ultimate Coat!

[Karina]

Hi Anna we are all starting with the sleeves, I think the designer recommended that as well.

[laikabear]

Well, I got my 2 cuffs done, and I picked up and started knitting the seed stitch on the RIGHT sleeve. I was not 100% sure what she meant by working into the back loop of the 2nd sts from the edge on the front of the fabric. I took it to mean that the pickup point was one leg of the 2nd to last stitch closest to the top.

Now that I'm looking at it again, I don't think that is what she meant at all. I think it meant to knit into the back loop as you pick them up, to twist them and therefore get them tighter. Oops. Oh well, I think mine look okay the way I picked them up anyway.

Here are a couple of photos. Gosh that sleeve is going to be pretty wide on my bony little wrist!

So Artlady are you done with the back yet?! I am going to enlarge & color in my charts next!

[GinnyG]

Hmmmm, I'm liking the seed stitch cuff......... I have finished one cuff (for the second time) but am really not happy with it. I might try the seed stitch.....

[slugmom]

I'm so glad you posted those pictures with the 'holey' seed stitch swatches and said it shouldn't be dense, that's been one of my concerns with my gauge, too!

I had to laugh when you called yourself a runt, ArtLady ... I'm only 5' also, LOL. So I'm extra glad you're "going before me" on the sleeve.

My goal is to get my swatch done today (baby steps, LOL) so I know my row gauge and can plan / adjust accordingly.

[ArtLady1981]

Maureen - thanks for the link to the cuffs, I think That is the way I will go.

Artlady - I really love the seed stitch cuffs better than the original. When you do the decreases is there a reason why you only do them in one place over a few rows, instead of on one row and evenly spaced out. never done a cuff before so am just trying to understand how it works.

I thought putting the decreases on each side of the seamline would hide them best. And remember, you have to maintain the seed st sequencing, so you have to knock out two stitches side-by-side anyways. It's not like decreasing in plain st st. Otherwise, you'd have a P1P1 when you removed the K1 by itself, or vice versa...a K1K1 if you removed just a P1.

But, you could certainly work your two decreases side by side at different locations around the circumference of the cuff. I'd start out at the seamline, but if I didn't like it, I'd try dispersing the decrease sequences around the cuff. Good thought.

I suggested working a 'decrease row' every other row, just so that it is more gradual, and not too radical. The 'resting row' gives the 'decrease row' time to settle in and feel comfortable. A lot patterns use decrease rows no more frequently than EOR.

But this is only a suggestion. There are prolly other ways that are just as good, But it's what I'd try first. If I liked the results, I do it for the second cuff, too. If not, I'd frog it and try something else. Tinker, tinker. That's me. The tinker thinker!

[laikabear]

Alright Ginny, do you have some cuffs to show us?

[AnnaElch]

So I have knitted up a little cabled piece with my Rowan Cocoon, I do love this yarn, but.....this might sound weird....it just does not want to be Sylvi, I can't see it in my mind's eye. Perhaps it's the visible Mohair fibers mixed in, I don't know . As much as I would have liked to start on this, I set Rowan aside to become something else.

I reread the Yarn Subs thread over at the Ravelry group and noticed this yarn factory recommended by a German Raveler (the one with the fern green Sylvi Cardi), she used their yarn for hers.

So I called them today and they will send me a sample card which hopefully arrives tomorrow.

So now I am back to square one.

[evona]

So I have knitted up a little cabled piece with my Rowan Cocoon, I do love this yarn, but.....this might sound weird....it just does not want to be Sylvi, I can't see it in my mind's eye. Perhaps it's the visible Mohair fibers mixed in, I don't know . As much as I would have liked to start on this, I set Rowan aside to become something else.

I reread the Yarn Subs thread over at the Ravelry group and noticed this yarn factory recommended by a German Raveler (the one with the fern green Sylvi Cardi), she used their yarn for hers.

So I called them today and they will send me a sample card which hopefully arrives tomorrow.

So now I am back to square one.

I know what you mean about how yarn just doesn't want to be what you want it to be. I'm sure that some pattern will call out to your Rowan Cocoon soon

And don't worry about being back to square one - there's at least a few of us taking this project slowly because of random daily life things so you likely won't be the last one done

[slugmom]

I've got my gauge swatch done!

12 stitches to 4" with 11's (8 mm)
21 rows to 4"



How's it look?

So now I can start on the sleeves, right! I need to re-read the sleeve info, I don't think I'll do the overlap. Oooh and I need to decide what size to knit, I was leaning towards L ... my bust is about 40" so L should be about right, and the row gauge issue will shorten it up for me, right? Any other parts of my body I need to measure before picking a size for sure? I'm 5' tall ...

I'm excited!

[ArtLady1981]

Hi there slugmom! Welcome to Shortsville!
I'm 5' too, and prolly shrinking with age, but 5' is what I cling to!

You will prolly want to shorten the sleeves, like me.
So, before starting the sleeve increases crop out some length.
I am not sure how many inches you need to crop, but, you can find out by doing the math as compared to your row gauge.

Don't try to change the sleeve cap in any way...cuz this would make you also change the FRONTS and BACK in that corresponding region. A nightmare of math.

If you wanna lengthen or shorten a sleeve, best to do it BEFORE the sleeve cap/armhole area.

Your swatch is beeeauuutiful!

Anna~ I know what you mean about a yarn that wants to be what it wants to be, not necessarily what YOU want it to be.
Raisin' kids is just like that, now that I think about it!