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Old 02-06-2009, 01:11 AM   #121
evona
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Originally Posted by ArtLady1981 View Post
Anna~ I know what you mean about a yarn that wants to be what it wants to be, not necessarily what YOU want it to be.
Raisin' kids is just like that, now that I think about it!

Amen!
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Old 02-06-2009, 10:04 AM   #122
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First of all, thanks to Artlady for the hint on the sleeve increases. Mine worked out great! I also added 2.5" to the sleeve before the increases.

NOW, I just finished binding off my 7 sts and worked my 5 even rows. I did the 2 decrease rows as written, which has given me 2 purl sts on each end of the RS. The next direction is "repeat decrease row every 4th row (1) more time, then..." So that means, knit the next 3 rows even, right? My dilemma is, what do I do with those edge sts? Do I want a column of 1 purl st on each end of the RS? Help!

My second question is, when trying the sleeve on for length (presuming I get through the decreases), where does the little notch for the bound off sts fall? Is it right at the armpit? I hope not, because if I pull those bound off sts right up into my armpit, the sleeve is about 1" shorter than I'd hoped for.
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Old 02-06-2009, 10:08 AM   #123
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OK, one more question. I read several directions to SL1 at the beginning of a row. The pattern key says only "slip" and not whether you should slip knit wise or purl wise. I thought that whenever a pattern says SL1 and doesn't specify, you are supposed to slip it purlwise, otherwise it twists the stitch. So that is what I was doing.

HOWEVER, a few rows later I encountered "SL1 purlwise." Crap, was I supposed to be slipping the others knitwise? This distinction was always a puzzle to me when making socks. In fact, I have only one completed pair. So did I screw up? I am hoping that it doesn't make too much of a difference, so I just continued knitting, and slipping my SL1's purlwise.
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Old 02-06-2009, 11:18 AM   #124
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OK, never mind about that first question. I realized I was on the wrong row. There is a RS decrease, WS plain row. Then it says repeat decrease every 4th row. Well, that would be on the WS, right? Nope, it was supposed to be the RS. Then every other row (all on the RS).

WHY AM I HAVING SO MUCH TROUBLE WITH THIS PATTERN? We are supposed to be on the Easy Peasy part. I will admit I started taking some new medication this week but sheesh!
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Old 02-06-2009, 01:26 PM   #125
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Good morning all! Well, it's a nice cloudy drizzly day out West!
A good day for a fireplace, coffee and the Sylvi Sleeve!

Laikabear~ I do believe the BIND OFF 7 edge is basically equivalent to the same edge created with these kind of sleeve directions: "SHAPE SLEEVE CAP: Bind off 3 stitches at the beg of the next two rows" when knitting a sleeve the conventional flat way.

So, yes, I think that BIND OFF 7 area will fall in the armpit region.

The true 'test' will be after you finish sleeve#1 and put those ten st on hold. Then and really only then, can you truly see how your sleeve will fit. By putting your arm into the sleeve and holding the 10 st up to your sideneck...you'll see exactly where the armpit is, and where the cuff hits.

If it's too short...you might could frog back, pulling out the BIND OFF 7 row...and knit some additional 'even' seed rows to lengthen the sleeve before starting the cap again with the BIND OFF 7 row.

When the directions say, "work the decrease row 1 more time every 4th row..." it means this: there are 2 decrease rows total. And lets call that the first one Seed Row 60. The next decrease row would be Seed Row 64.

Notice, I don't number my rows starting from 1 again after the sleeve cap bindoffs. I just keep numbering them from where I started at the top of the cuff. I use those red row markers to keep track of what row I'm on. It's critical to know what row you're on with this sleeve.

FYI: I didn't slip any stitches on the first stitch cuz I'm not working the inside-out seam. The slip stitch is for 'decoration' when the seams meet and roll to the outside, and I must say, I agree with that design feature! I think you should slip your stitches so that they don't appear twisted. You know, their appearance should be a consistent 'mount' all the way up the raglan line.

The inside-out seams are too sporty for what I want this coat for, so I'm going to use the good ole 'mattress seam'. Therefore, I worked my sleeve cap decreases using the first 2 stitches and last two stitches of each decrease row! Yup. You heard right: my decreases are on the end. The ends will be turned to the inside, hidden away, after the mattress seam is performed anyway. I don't usually EVER work my decreases on the edge...but...I did it this time on the second time around for this sleeve cap cuz by working the decreases on the end...the seed stitch pattern wasn't disturbed at all. I want a perfect field of seed stitches meeting at the raglan seamline from the outside view.

All knitters~ the main reason any of us might experience more time-consuming issues with the sleeves is because none of us is getting a correct ROW GAUGE. We all maybe have to lengthen or shorten the sleeve a bit on any sweater...what pattern EVER gives us a perfectly fitting length sleeve? But with Sylvi, our row gauge is off, so we have to tinker around with the length.

I do not think we will have these issues with the body of the sweater. The coat might just be shorter or longer due to row gauge. But sleeves, they have to fit right. So we will all appreciate our time and efforts on these SLEEVES!

I mean, whoever wants a sleeve where the cuff falls 4" longer than your fingertips please raise your hand!

On the otherhand, whoever wants a sleeve where the cuff is an inch above or just meeting your wrist bone, please raise your hand!

I agree with you Laikabear! I thought the sleeves would be the easiest part, too!
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Old 02-06-2009, 01:59 PM   #126
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Originally Posted by laikabear View Post
Alright Ginny, do you have some cuffs to show us?
I'll try to post pics over the weekend. My computer at home fried this week and DH is trying to reinstall everything. He's not having much luck so it may be dead dead dead...........

I'm at the Fire House til Sunday but who knows, miricals happen.
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Old 02-06-2009, 08:41 PM   #127
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So the 10 sts on the holder go all the way up at the side neck? I gotta drag out those schematics again.

I am planning on doing the seams as per the pattern. I read that part of the instructions. It says something like "Seam on the WS." WHAT? Having never seamed before I'd like a little more help than that. Oh well, I'm not there yet anyway.

I think that my sleeve is way too short. I hear some frogs....
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Old 02-06-2009, 08:43 PM   #128
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Yes, the 10 are along the side of the neck.

Yes, you would flip your work wrong sides facing and perform the mattress seam from that position. This will roll the raw edges to the public side. That's why she has you doing the fancy slip stitch on the ends.
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Old 02-07-2009, 12:13 AM   #129
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THE NEXT STEP
After giving it much thought, I am going to make buttonholes.

The thought of buttonholes freaks some folks about the placement them. Rav has some buttonhole discussions running.

Not to worry.

Here's what I do: I knit the LEFT SIDE first. By making the LEFT FRONT first, you will have as visible representation of the buttonband. How many rows, etc. By this, you can decide where each button will be placed.

If you've been keeping track of rows for the LEFT FRONT with the little red row markers...you can make a buttonhole 'work order' for the corresponding RIGHT SIDE. You will know EXACTLY which rows for the RIGHT FRONT will be needing a buttonhole, and exactly how many stitches each hole will span, and this depends on the size button you've settled on.

From what I can tell, the button and buttonhole bands themselves are 'built in' as you go back and forth across your rows. They are not picked up and knit later. I love built-ins!

So remember, work the LEFT SIDE first. Then the RIGHT SIDE with its corresponding buttonholes. You can't fail. I'll take some digital photos of my finished LEFT FRONT with the little yarn markers placed where each of the 5 buttons will be sewn.

Then we've saved the fun stuff for last: the BACK!

I'd rather get the boring stuff out of the way first, wouldn't you?

I will complete my final sleeve tonight. I don't know what to call them anymore. Btu I will have a sleeve for both the RIGHT SIDE AND THE LEFT SIDE, WITH THE CUFF BUTTONS ON THE OUTSIDE!

+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

PERSONAL NOTES:

I am very tired tonight. I didn't get any sleep last night, and I've been very stressed. Yesterday, our year-old male St. Bernard (Charlie) nearly killed our 3-yr-old male Walker Hound (Blue) in a series of 4 horrible fights within a half hour. We had to take Blue to the vet today. Emergency surgery. He would've died. He's in the kitchen now, laying on blankets.
$500 dollars later...I might add.

Both guys are neutered. However, they've only been snipped since Dec. Our female Walker Hound, Dani, has been spayed since she was six months old. She doesn't know what sex is.
So the guys aren't fighting over her. They are jealousy fighting over me and DH. We've seen signs of their posturing and snarling around us when we go out to play with them.

We just don't know what to do. Charlie is 160 lbs and Blue is only 80 lbs. Not exactly a fair fight, but Blue doesn't give in.
They just wear themselves out. My husband is a big strong guy, he can't break them up.

I cried all night I was so upset about Blue. Charlie has all the thick curly fur. The most he gets is a pierce ear. Anyway, to top it offf...now both boys have a coating of pepper spray on them. DH tried to break them up with that on fight #1 which was worst cuz the boys had more energy and fight in them. It broke up the fight, but didn't prevent 3 more. DH had to power wash the deck this morning..well, all kinds of cleanup due to the pepper spray. He'll never try that again. I nearly choked to death on the spray that wafts into the house when we open the slider door.

I guess one of the boys is going to have to been in the kennel run at all times. No more interacting...not even one bit.
Blue hid in the kennel's dog house, John locked the door...and Charlie still sat and watched for Blue to come out for round 5 maybe.

It wasn't til morning light that we realized Blue was in real bad shape. For the life of me, I don't understand how some folks think dog fights are entertainment for gambling purposes. It makes me ill to see it.

Thanks for listening.
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Old 02-07-2009, 01:49 AM   #130
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Oh Artlady I am so sorry to hear about poor Blue. (I once had a Redbone hound named Blue!). In my experience, once dogs fight like that, they will get into it again and again, so they must be permanently separated. :(

It can be really difficult to separate a dogfight, too. The old "spray them with the hose" trick doesn't work with a real fight (well maybe if you have a FIRE hose).

I hope everything goes okay with Blue's recovery.
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