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Old 01-30-2009, 05:29 PM   #61
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Old 01-30-2009, 05:58 PM   #62
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Originally Posted by ArtLady1981 View Post
Here is the collar I made for John's Jacket. It was knit by simply picking up the stitches all around the neckline and back neck edges...and then 1x1 rib for maybe 2.5"...then switch to a larger needle size and do a row of increases...then a couple plain rib rows, then increase row again, then a couple plain rib rows...then bind off when the entire thing is a bit over 5" tall. Turn the collar to the inside and whip stitch into place!

FYI: the purpose of the increase rows is to widen or fan out the collar so that the 'increase top portion' will be easier to whipstitch into place on the inside.

VOILA!

By being 'double'...it stands up nicely. I will do a collar similar to this for SYLVI. Just a nice, pert little standup collar. I could see a collar like this on Sylvi...but not the zipper necessarily. Maybe Celtic clasps? Or self yarn frogs and loops?

I understand the instructions and why the increases would be necessary inside of the collar; however, when increasing in the 1x1 ribbing I am stumped. Where would the increases be within the ribbing and how many times? I just can't 'see' it in my mind yet. Thanks, anyone, for an explanation....
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Old 01-30-2009, 06:29 PM   #63
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Originally Posted by Wanda Witch View Post
I understand the instructions and why the increases would be necessary inside of the collar; however, when increasing in the 1x1 ribbing I am stumped. Where would the increases be within the ribbing and how many times? I just can't 'see' it in my mind yet. Thanks, anyone, for an explanation....
Same question here
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Old 01-30-2009, 06:46 PM   #64
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I'm going with celtic clasps!!
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Old 01-30-2009, 11:24 PM   #65
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The first 2.5" of the collar is the "public side" and I maintained a perfect 1x1 rib. However, the second 2.5" will be the inside lining of the collar, next to the neck.

So, the M1 increases weirdED out the perfect 1x1 rib, but so what?

Here is how I did the first increase row, worked at about 2.75":

K1 P1 (K1 M1 P1) x 9....then 1x1 rib til the last 20 stitches; then work (P1 M1 K1) x 9, end with P1 K1.

On the next row, I worked the M1's as knits. Yeah, this weirded out my 1x1 ribbing at each end of the span of the collar lining, but that's ok. It's just the lining. And you HAVE TO expand that width so that when you stitch it down it will lay right.

Now, work the weird rib for another inch, fully letting it 'sink in'.

At about 4", work the 2nd increase row as follows:

Second increase row: worked in some more M1's inbetween the P1 K1 pairs that were still normal within those first original 20 stitches.

Then the following next row after the second inc row, my collar lining 'language' looked something like this:
K1 P1, (K2 P2) x 9....1x1 rib across til the last 38 st, then finish with (P2 K2) x 9, P1 K1.

Then just follow that strange combination of ribbing til the collar is 5" or so. BIND OFF LOOSELY, leaving a nice long tail for whip stitching.

Fold collar lining to the inside and whip stitch into place!
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Old 01-31-2009, 12:17 AM   #66
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NOTES FOR CUFFS AND SLEEVES
GinnyG! "Backstitch" just means 'in-and-out'. You can't mattress seam the ends together cuz you need to overlap the BO end on top. So, just use that 15" tail and work it in and out through both layers as neatly as possible. (NOTE: for the LEFT CUFF, the CO edge is on top)

My first cuff (the RIGHT SLEEVE CUFF) is 1/4 done.
Will take a photo of the overlap thing when I get there!

Shees, I had to write out the notes for the cuffs to be sure I "get it".
It is easy to work, but a bit tricky to understand first.

But I do know that the RIGHT SIDE of the cuff is going to the the K4 P2 K3 P5 side...and the K4 edge is your 'pickup 39' edge and the P5 edge is closest to your hand.

A NOTE: notice how the sleeve says to "SLIP 1, work seed pattern to the end of the row" under ALL SIZES on page 1? And again on the dec rows, there is a SLIP 1 feature at the beginning of the rows.

I am eliminating the SLIP 1 from all my sleeve cap rows because I am NOT working the "inside out seam". The designer included the SLIP 1 feature as a part of a design element for the INSIDE OUT seam. I'm mattress seaming my coat, therefore, all my sleeve cap edges will be the regular 'EDGE STITCHES' which, as you know, are KNITS on the RS & WS. An 'edge stitch' creates a nice little garter bump and you can really mattress seam quickly and neatly with this little edge stitch as your guide!

A PERSONAL NOTE: I am shortening my sleeve by 7"!!!
I added up the 2 sleeve measurements given for the sleeve as seen on the schematics...the sleeve length for the XL is 21" plus the sleeve cap is 12.75" which equals 36.75" for the raglan sleeve! HOLY COW!

From base of my neck, across my shoulder, down over my shoulder, down my arm to an inch past my wristbone is just 27"! So I will offload this 7" before the sleeve cap shaping...cuz the sleeve cap HAS TO fit into the armhole sockets of the FRONTS AND BACK. This also changes how 'often' I work my increases up to the sleeve cap shaping. Losing that many inches will mean that my full sleeve width has to be accomplished sooner. Otherwise, I'll 'run out of road'!

My "road" ends at milepost 14 (inches)! (SYLVI pattern says to begin sleeve cap shaping at 21" for the XL) I don't think so!

And ya know, IF my sleeve #1 is a bit too short, I'd rather frog the sleeve cap back and add an inch or two before knitting sleeve #2.

We cannot 'roll up' the cuffs for this sleeve if they are too long, can we! They have to be a perfect length. I hate ill-fitting sleeves. I've been down that road too many times.

I suggest you do the same: measure yourself from the base of the side of your neck, down over your shoulder and arm to just past the wristbone. Then, add up the 2 schematic sleeve 'length' measurements. See how far down your completed sleeve will fit YOU if knit strictly according to the pattern's measurements.

I've read about overly LONNNNNNNNG SLEEVES at Rav. Forewarned is forearmed! Us shorties already know about sleeves vs length! Best to check.

I will knit just one sleeve and do a mock try on of it, holding it to my body where it would lie when the coat is seamed up.
Looking at all the great photos of SYLVI, it isn't hard to know where to hold the sleeve!
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Old 01-31-2009, 05:53 PM   #67
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Well, your fearless leader has flopped!

I made the cuff fine and dandy. But, I did not like how that 'overlap' looked AT ALL. It doesn't lay right because of the way the P5 rolls up for both layers. I mean, the underside rolls up, and the 'tab' rolls up. I tried every which way to sew that cuff with the overlap...and not one produced a finished look that I liked.

So I tried another approach. I mattress seamed the K4-P2-K3 stitches FACE UP...and turned the cuff inside out and seamed teh P5 stitches WRONG SIDE up...meaning the Knit Stitches facing.

It is the same principle as when you are seaming a hat...you seam the hat with RIGHT SIDES facing, and the brim is seamed WRONG SIDE facing, so that when the brim is turned up, the finished seamline is facing out.

Anyway, I thought I'd give it a try, and I like it! I cinched the stitches up as tightly as possible so that the seamline doesn't look wider than the cuff itself.

Here it is:


Here is the inside view:


Here is the top view of the other cuff:


BTW: I picked up the 39 stitches with ease, however, I couldn't work them on a single 16" needle. So I am working my sleeve with 2 circs. The CAT BORDHI way! If you are at a loss about working on 2 circs 'in the round' please take time to watch these 2 video clips!

You will never forget again! Last night, I remembered how to do it without watching the videos again! I usually ALWAYS have to refresh my mind when using seldom-used technques! Again and again and again!

PART 1
YouTube Video
ERROR: If you can see this, then YouTube is down or you don't have Flash installed.


PART 2
YouTube Video
ERROR: If you can see this, then YouTube is down or you don't have Flash installed.
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Old 02-01-2009, 01:00 PM   #68
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PROGRESS REPORT: I'm well into shaping sleeve cap, working flat with a RS & WS, working the decreases at each end til ultimately 10 st remain. I'm not working the decreases quite like the pattern says K2T & SSK's. I'm knitting or purling the 2 together based on what the seed pattern dictates at each end. This is masking/hiding the decreases. I'm working the 'edge stitch' first...then the next two stitches are worked together (1 dec) according the seed pattern. At the end of the row, I work 2 together, then the edge stitch.

Oh, and another thing about my sleeve: because of my short row gauge...(16 rows are supposed to be 4"...my row gauge is 3")...
I am stretching out the decrease rows in the cap. Instead of dec 1 each end every 4th row 8 times more...I'm decreasing every 6th row 7 times more; then the next foll 4th row; then EOR 7 times.
The purpose: so that my sleeve cap will reach the required length of 12.75" by the time it's down to 10 st left. I'll have to apply the same rule of decreasing to the FRONT and BACK raglan edges, too. It won't matter for the FRONTS, but adding those 12 extra rows will impact the design work for the BACK cuz the rows aren't plain seed, they are charted rows!

I read over at Rav that some knitters just worked some rows TWO extra times. Like, for example, they worked maybe a chart row 143 as a 'working' row, then row 144 is a 'resting' row (knit the knits, purl the purls as they present themselves)...but then instead of immediately going on the row 145, they did two additional resting rows. Like, to call them a name, they'd be rows 144b & 144c. This just elongated what they had done for Row 143. Anyways, the folks that did this trick were have ROW GAUGE issues, too. Pretty cool 'fix'! I will have to do this as well. No problem.

Photo of my sleeve before 'BIND OFF 7 ST' for the shape sleeve cap:


Photo of the increases on each side of stitch marker (above red line):

I didn't work the increase like the pattern said M1L & M1R.
Forget it. I didn't like how it disrupted the seed pattern.
Here's what I did to each inc 1 st stitch on either side of the stitch marker: I made each stitch (on each side of the stitch marker) into two stitches by using the kfb or pfb increase. Then, when I came back around for the next round, I just purled or knit the 4 st on each side of the marker according the seed sequencing. You can tell that something is going on in the increase area, but it isn't too disruptive to the field of seed. Besides, it will be in the underarm area anyways.

Here is a photo of what I'm intending to do to my cuffs:

I just laid them down on the cuff seamline, but will sew them on later.

Photo of the Papa Button and the Mama Button.
Mama Buttons for cuffs. Papa Buttons for FRONT closures.


I used the Papa Buttons on my 3/4 coat GROVE. Will order more.


They hold the coat shut without coming undone.

This yarn is Malabrigo Merino, but almost same color as SYLVI will be.
I guess you could say I love winter white! This coat is hooded, so my SYLVI definitely doesn't need to be hooded, too.
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Old 02-01-2009, 01:50 PM   #69
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A question, ArtLady: Since I also plan to mattress stitch the cuffs together to avoid the bulk otherwise, should the cuff only measure 13" in length instead of the 14" the pattern states? Will making them 14", as I have (but have not b/o) make the 39 stitches to be picked up off? Thanks for any suggestions. Love the button idea of yours also on the cuff.
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Old 02-01-2009, 01:56 PM   #70
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You are right! I just finished updating my SYLVI notes on Rav...and remembered to state that I did frog my cuff back to 13" when I decided to mattress seam. Although, the mattress seaming gobbles up a bit of the cuffs. But I still left it at 13". A slightly smaller cuff circumference is nice.

Also, I mattress seamed the K4 P2 K3 stitches with the RS facing, then flipped it over and mattress seamed the P5's (they look like K5's on the WS). When the P5's roll up, you don't want the mattress edges to be public.

PS: It won't impact your PU 39 st at all! Cuz there are lots of extra stitches. You will find you need to PU 2 side by side, then skip 1, then PU 2 side by side, then skip 1, etc. Be sure to count how many stitches are available to you along the PU row, and mark sections of 4 and PU an even amount in each sector.
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