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Old 10-29-2009, 08:33 AM   #1
ndaisy
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Bunch of New Knitter Questions in one lump


Okay.. .got the long tail cast on done.. so I am assuming the first row is a knit... so when I start knitting is this next row now going to be the back?


When you do just a knit row or rows of knit, how many rows does it take for the pattern to form? 2 complete rows? that cast on long tail seems to mess me up in knowing.

WHat are the ways you all are using to remember your row counts? I just get rolling then I look at the rows and cant seem to distinguish what I did.. like I can with crochet. I just count the pattern that seems to form on just knit... just want to make sure to see that pattern its not 3 rows knitted.


When adding a new color I notice this line of addition, what row should this be added on.. an even or odd.. or front to you or back?

How do you hide this on a stripped scarf you want to make?

If a pattern calls for DS yarn and all you have is worsted weight.. what would the difference be for cast on?

Is 6/7 stitches per inch on worsted weight with size 9 wooden needles anywhere close to standard?

So many things keep popping into my head. Is there any one book that explains.. ALL the needles.. yarns..gauges per needle.. all the abbreviations.. and basic knitting questions without a lot of patterns.

thanks ahead of time
Cheri

I need the questions answered to all the easy and hard questions as well as practicing the stitches
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Old 10-29-2009, 09:40 AM   #2
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Okay.. .got the long tail cast on done.. so I am assuming the first row is a knit... so when I start knitting is this next row now going to be the back?

Your first row is a knit row (right side or RS) and the next row is the wrong side (WS) The cast on row does not count in most patterns.

When you do just a knit row or rows of knit, how many rows does it take for the pattern to form? 2 complete rows? that cast on long tail seems to mess me up in knowing.

2 rows make up your pattern: 2 knit rows for a garter stitch and a knit and a purl row for stockinette

WHat are the ways you all are using to remember your row counts? I just get rolling then I look at the rows and cant seem to distinguish what I did.. like I can with crochet. I just count the pattern that seems to form on just knit... just want to make sure to see that pattern its not 3 rows knitted.

If you need to count rows, you can get a row counter that slips on your needle to keep track. Sometimes I just use a piece of paper and a pencil.

When adding a new color I notice this line of addition, what row should this be added on.. an even or odd.. or front to you or back?

Add your new color with the RS (front) facing you.

How do you hide this on a stripped scarf you want to make?

As far as I know, stripes will have a RS and a WS. There are tricks to hide them like knitting a tube but simple stripes will have a WS.

If a pattern calls for DS yarn and all you have is worsted weight.. what would the difference be for cast on?

Do a gauge swatch and then multiply the number of stitches per inch that you get by the width of the object you want to knit. This is pretty straightforward for a scarf but not so simple in knitted items like sweaters where shaping is critical.

Is 6/7 stitches per inch on worsted weight with size 9 wooden needles anywhere close to standard?

The standard for worsted weight yarn is 4-5 stitches per inch on a size 7 - 9 needle. Here's a chart: Yarn Standards


So many things keep popping into my head. Is there any one book that explains.. ALL the needles.. yarns..gauges per needle.. all the abbreviations.. and basic knitting questions without a lot of patterns.

Sorry, I'm not that up on the best books. There are some fabulous websites and you are on one of the best. Explore the tutorials and videos here. KnitPicks.com also has some great information. Good luck!
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Old 10-29-2009, 09:51 AM   #3
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If you're going to knit all rows to make garter st, it's reversible so either side can be the RS. Pick whichever you think looks better. If you're just knitting plain, it should look like it's supposed to within a couple rows. For ribbing, it usually takes 3-6 rows.

I don't try to 'remember' how many rows, I just count them. Some people like to use row counter dealies you put on the needle, but I'd probably forget to click it over. Just easier to count them.

If you're doing all garter stitch, the line of mixed colors is going to show no matter which side you add it on. If you're doing stockinette, the add it as you knit the RS.

A DK yarn is slightly thinner than worsted, sometimes nearly the same, so you have to cast on about 20 sts and see if you can get the same gauge as the pattern with the same size needles. Maybe go up a size or two, and use them if you like how it looks.

A gauge of 6 or 7 sts/inch on size 9 is VERY TIGHT. The usual gauge on size 9s would be about 4-4 sts per inch. Or else the yarn is too thin, but that should still be about 5 sts on a size 9.

The forum members are very good for helping you, the Glossary link has most terms that are used and many of them have videos. The online magazine Knitty has a lot of articles (listed under What do you want to read?) that explains a lot of things that you're wanting to know. I don't know of any one book that explains them.
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Old 10-29-2009, 11:09 AM   #4
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thanks
thanks for all the replys.. that helps a lot for now.... My stitches dont seem tight, if I make them any looser they would fall off.. maybe I measured wrong.. but anyway.. I wanted some guide to seeing how close I am.
Honestly... I go right to worsted cause that is all I have really known. All the others.. I just thought were special yarns, never had a pattern call for them...I quess thats the world in crochet.. or a lot has changed since I have crafted
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Old 10-29-2009, 12:19 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by suzeeq View Post
If you're doing all garter stitch, the line of mixed colors is going to show no matter which side you add it on. If you're doing stockinette, the add it as you knit the RS.
Nope, the dotted line of color change only shows on one side on garter stitch. So choose a side and then add color on the RS. I'm doing a BSJ with color changes now so I attached a picture. I also have one of the back if you want.

Quote:
A gauge of 6 or 7 sts/inch on size 9 is VERY TIGHT. The usual gauge on size 9s would be about 4-4 sts per inch.
If you use a lighter weight yarn on bigger needles you'd get a lacy, loose fabric. Maybe I'm not reading this right.
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Old 10-29-2009, 01:31 PM   #6
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To this question:


Quote:
Okay.. .got the long tail cast on done.. so I am assuming the first row is a knit... so when I start knitting is this next row now going to be the back?
A lot of patterns designate the first row as the right side of the project, but then they usually don't tell you which cast on you should use.

I was taught that the first row after using a long tail cast on should really be a purl row if you were doing stockinette (St st). That is considering that the side of the long tail cast on that looks a little like a stem stitch in embroidery is the right side (RS) of the fabric. I usually choose to make that side the RS.

If you want that embroidered looking edge to be the RS that would make the second row the RS for a St st item. So begin on a purl row and then the next row is the knit side and is the right side.

For a reverse stockinette item (rev St st) you would begin with a knit row, but the second row, the purl side would be the RS.

With ribbing both sides look the same and either side doesn't look bad as the RS but I usually prefer the second row to be the RS for ribbing too. If a pattern isn't going to throw the RS onto the side with the edge of the cast on that I like best I usually add or subtract a row so that it does. I suppose in some instances this is not a good idea but I can't think of an example for you.

I also like the look of the edge better when the 2nd row is the right side with garter stitch (knit every row). You start out with a knit row and knit every row, but that makes a gap of flat work on the first row that isn't there on the side of the second row. I think it looks better on that side, and it has the embroidered like edge as well.

But all of this is a matter of personal preference. If you like the looks of the other side of the cast on best it can be the right side.
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Old 10-29-2009, 02:56 PM   #7
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I don't do separate colors Jan, so I'm not really experienced in how the changes show. Thanks.

Quote:
If you use a lighter weight yarn on bigger needles you'd get a lacy, loose fabric. Maybe I'm not reading this right.
I know, and I'm curious about her getting that many sts/inch on size 9s. With thinner yarn it would still be about the same as with worsted on that needle, 4-5 sts/inch just looser and thinner. With thicker yarn you'd probably get 4 sts and they'd be very tight.
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Old 10-29-2009, 04:18 PM   #8
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Originally Posted by suzeeq View Post
I know, and I'm curious about her getting that many sts/inch on size 9s. With thinner yarn it would still be about the same as with worsted on that needle, 4-5 sts/inch just looser and thinner. With thicker yarn you'd probably get 4 sts and they'd be very tight.
Maybe just a matter of not reading a gauge correctly? Do we have a good visual or video on how to count stitches?
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Old 10-29-2009, 04:37 PM   #9
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I was thinking she might have meant over 2" or not reading it right. There's no video for it here, but Knitty has an article with pictures.
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Old 10-31-2009, 07:45 PM   #10
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Tight Stitches
Okay let me apoligize.. I measured wrong.. I took a bunch of my swatches and really looked at them..and seriously was not measuring right.. used a tape measure..and forgot to subtract the one inch I start right at the 1 mark.. but needless that is still to many stitches.

I dug out my mother in laws stuff and found some old sears ruler and needle sizer and had a nice ruler on it.. and ummm.. was a measurement for 2 inches.. I am so silly... so I am getting around 4 or so stitches on the 9 wooded... still practicing.

Thanks for all the pictures and answers...really helps
Cheri
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