If you decrease 1 stitch each side every row, I worked out one thing that works pretty well for the first 6 rows. I only started with 19 stitches so I ran out of enough stitches to continue being able to see what would happen, and didn't want to have to start all the way over with more stitches.
I'm leaving an edge stitch on each side, doing the decrease in one from that.
Row 1: K1, SSK, sl 1, k1, PSSO, k1, yo, k1, yo, k1. Then begin at the * and work across to the last 5 stitches, end--(k2tog) 2 times, k1.
Row 2 and all purl (even) rows: P1, p2tog, purl across to last 3 sts, p2tog tbl, p1.
Row 3: K1, SSK, k2, yo, k1. Then begin at * and work across to last 6--K1, yo, k2, k2tog, k1.
row 5: K1, SSK, yo, k1. Then begin at the * and work across to last 7-- sl 1, k1, PSSO, k1, yo, k2tog, k1.
Work the next wrong side row. Maybe from here you can figure it out yourself. You have to look at where you are in the pattern and pick it up there. Be careful that you don't end up not decreasing because you worked a yarn over at the beginning and end that did not have a corresponding decrease to compensate. Count at the end of each decrease row and make sure you decreased 2 stitches.
The way I worked out the lace pattern with the decreases is not the only way it could be done, you may be able to figure out a way that looks even nicer, but I thought mine worked all right.