Here's a bunch of videos that didn't quite fit into the categories. There's a lot of good info here, including some guidance on how to fix common knitting mistakes.
Demo of a small project
A small sampling of knitting demonstrating the common steps.
This is a small sample of knitting, shown from cast-on to bind-off. Topic covers how to weave in cast-on and bind-off ends, and how to avoid those loose side stitches.
Loose side stitches/Messy edges
Watch the above Demo of a small project, for tips on how to deal with this common problem.
Slipping a Stitch: p-wise or k-wise?
Answers the often-asked question: if the pattern doesn't specify, do I slip the stitch purl-wise or knit-wise?
Basic Stitch Patterns
(all knit stitch on straight needles)
aka Stocking Stitch
aka Moss Stitch
Correcting a stitch without unraveling rows
Mysterious holes in the knitting
Adding a Stitch Several Rows Back
Fixing a run/dropped-stitch
How to re-insert your needle
How to unravel and re-insert your needle in complex stitch pattern
Recognizing an accidentally twisted stitch
Inserting a needle into destination row, before unraveling
Using a "lifeline."
Great when doing lace work, or any knitting where unraveling and putting back on the needles properly would be tricky or impossible. I've invented a faster trick for inserting a lifeline if you knit with interchangeable needles: see Trick #3 in this post.
If you can locate a join at a seaming location, that is always best. You can just run the ends along the inside of the seamed edge, and it's invisible. All other joins are slightly imperfect, so best to locate them inconspicuously if possible, like under the arm of a sweater.
Felting will only work with wool, and some other animal fibers. Always try a test sample first with your yarn to see if it will work, and to see if you like the results! If you are using a smooth, shiny wool, felting will give it a dull look where felted, and a stiffer feel. For some yarns, it looks so different that the join stands out, and is not recommended.
For non-felted joins, you will have an end that pops out of work slightly; make sure this end is where you want it, by leaving a bit of yarn (1/4"-1/2") sticking out on the inside of the garment, or in as inconspicuous a place as possible.
Joining the Same Color Yarn
Knit-in Join. Fast and easy.
(single color). Almost as fast as above join. Strong join, and no ends popping out, because the felting holds them in!
You can also use one of the methods below.
Joining a New Color Yarn
Duplicate Stitch Join
(shows how to Weave in the Ends). Most commonly taught two-color join. Gives you great control.This video also demonstrates "weaving in the ends," using duplicate stitch. Correction: at the very end I show weaving in the end on the front, for a better view, but really you want to weave it from the back so the yarn is held securely towards the back of the work, and is less likely to pop out on the front side of the knitting. Also, I demonstrated this on a piece I knit on unusually large needles, which made for looser knitting. Leave a longer tail if you are doing that on loose knitting.
Double Knit-in Join
Fastest 2 color join. Takes practice to master. As with the Duplicate Stitch Join, this method requires that you leave extra yarn dangling on "inside" of work, so it's not ideal for a scarf or other project with no "inside."
Great illustration here.This is the neatest join I know of next to a felted join; great for yarns that won't felt, or won't look good felted. This join reduces the likelihood of ends popping out of the work, especially if you break the yarn instead of cut it, and don't split the plies. Can also be done more simply as a single color join by just threading old strand into the new strand.
(two color). Felted joins are great to do on the sides of a scarf or other object that you don't want yarn ends popping out and showing.
aka Grafting aka Weaving. For invisible horizontal seaming. The mantra while doing it is "Knit, purl. Purl, knit."
Weaving in the Ends
This classic method of dealing with your loose yarn ends won't show on the front of the knitting, and is far more durable than tying any kind of knot!
Firm method, not invisible. Great for seaming shoulders.
Makes an invisible side seam.
Vertical Seam Reverse Stockinette Stitch
aka Mattress Stitch on Reverse Stockinette Invisible vertical seam on reverse stockinette stitch. view video
If you want your side seams to show (not be invisible) you can do a Crochet seam or a backstitch (illustrations from other web sites). Avoid using an overcast/whip stitch! Be sure to work the seam stitch-by-stitch, and not migrate side to side, or it will show. Also, take care not to work the seam too tight; you don't want a pucker along the seam.
Here's a great article on blocking.
Knitting in the Round
I've put these videos in the Advanced Techniques section, but not because they're difficult, they're really not. Simple techniques that allow you suddenly to make mittens and more! Go to that section and check them out!
Picking Up Stitches
Also known as "Picking up stitches and knitting"
How to make I-cord
Easy! I-cord is a narrow tube of knitting, that is often used for the handles of a bag, cords to tie on a hat, to edge a garment, or appliqued on for a decorative effect.
*Knit a row. Slide row to other end of needle. Do not turn the work. Repeat from *.
How to attach i-cord to a garment
*Knit all of the i-cord stitches in the row, except the last stitch. Slip the last stitch. Knit a stitch from the garment (or pick up a stich along edge, if no live stitches). Pass the slipped stitch over garment stitch. Prepare to work the next row by sliding stitches to the other end of right needle (on a DPN or circular needle), or slipping all stitches from right needle onto left needle. Repeat from *.
How to Wind a Center-Pull Ball
Remember to wrap the yarn loosely.
Make your own knitting needles
Double Pointed Needles
I enjoy these wooden DPN's, although I often use aluminum ones. If you get frustrated with the aluminum ones sliding out of your work, you'll love these. If you're a tight knitter, I recommend metal/aluminum needles.
I don't really use my long wooden needles, because I prefer the slippery aluminum ones when there are lots of stitches on the needle. But they work, and some people prefer them.
(short DPN's used for making cables) -- I love my wooden cable needles, and prefer them to aluminum or plastic ones. I recommend these for anyone.
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One of the most unique & ingenius of all of EZ’s designs, the BSJ was introduced in 1968, and has grown in popularity ever since.
Some reactions from knitters
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