Knitting Tips

Here's a bunch of videos that didn't quite fit into the categories. There's a lot of good info here, including some guidance on how to fix common knitting mistakes.

Demo of a small project

A small sampling of knitting demonstrating the common steps.

view continental video view english video

This is a small sample of knitting, shown from cast-on to bind-off. Topic covers how to weave in cast-on and bind-off ends, and how to avoid those loose side stitches.

Demo of a Small Project

Loose side stitches/Messy edges

Watch the above Demo of a small project, for tips on how to deal with this common problem.

 

Slipping a Stitch: p-wise or k-wise?

Answers the often-asked question: if the pattern doesn't specify, do I slip the stitch purl-wise or knit-wise? 

view video

 

Visit the KnittingHelp.com Forum


Basic Stitch Patterns

Garter Stitch

(all knit stitch on straight needles)

view continental video view english video

Stockinette Stitch

aka Stocking Stitch

view continental video view english video

Ribbing

view continental video view english video

Seed Stitch

aka Moss Stitch

view continental video view english video

Stockinette Stitch

Fixing Mistakes

Correcting a stitch without unraveling rows

view video

Mysterious holes in the knitting

view video

Adding a Stitch Several Rows Back

view video

Fixing a run/dropped-stitch

view video

How to re-insert your needle

view video

How to unravel and re-insert your needle in complex stitch pattern

view video  

Recognizing an accidentally twisted stitch

view video

Inserting a needle into destination row, before unraveling

view video

Using a "lifeline."

view video

Great when doing lace work, or any knitting where unraveling and putting back on the needles properly would be tricky or impossible. I've invented a faster trick for inserting a lifeline if you knit with interchangeable needles: see Trick #3 in this post.

Fixing-Knitting-Mistakes

Joining Yarn

If you can locate a join at a seaming location, that is always best. You can just run the ends along the inside of the seamed edge, and it's invisible. All other joins are slightly imperfect, so best to locate them inconspicuously if possible, like under the arm of a sweater.

Felting will only work with wool, and some other animal fibers. Always try a test sample first with your yarn to see if it will work, and to see if you like the results! If you are using a smooth, shiny wool, felting will give it a dull look where felted, and a stiffer feel. For some yarns, it looks so different that the join stands out, and is not recommended.

For non-felted joins, you will have an end that pops out of work slightly; make sure this end is where you want it, by leaving a bit of yarn (1/4"-1/2") sticking out on the inside of the garment, or in as inconspicuous a place as possible.

 

Joining the Same Color Yarn

Knit-in Join. Fast and easy.

view video

Felted Join

(single color). Almost as fast as above join. Strong join, and no ends popping out, because the felting holds them in!

view video

You can also use one of the methods below.

 

Joining a New Color Yarn

Duplicate Stitch Join 

view video

(shows how to Weave in the Ends). Most commonly taught two-color join. Gives you great control.This video also demonstrates "weaving in the ends," using duplicate stitch.  Correction:  at the very end I show weaving in the end on the front, for a better view, but really you want to weave it from the back so the yarn is held securely towards the back of the work, and is less likely to pop out on the front side of the knitting. Also, I demonstrated this on a piece I knit on unusually large needles, which made for looser knitting. Leave a longer tail if you are doing that on loose knitting.

Double Knit-in Join

view video

Fastest 2 color join. Takes practice to master. As with the Duplicate Stitch Join, this method requires that you leave extra yarn dangling on "inside" of work, so it's not ideal for a scarf or other project with no "inside."

Russian Join

view video

Great illustration here.This is the neatest join I know of next to a felted join; great for yarns that won't felt, or won't look good felted. This join reduces the likelihood of ends popping out of the work, especially if you break the yarn instead of cut it, and don't split the plies. Can also be done more simply as a single color join by just threading old strand into the new strand.

Felted Join

view video

(two color). Felted joins are great to do on the sides of a scarf or other object that you don't want yarn ends popping out and showing.

Double Crochet Bind-Off

Yarn placement for felting the same color


Double Crochet Bind-Off

Yarn placement for felting 2 colors


Finishing

Seaming

Kitchener Stitch

aka Grafting aka Weaving. For invisible horizontal seaming. The mantra while doing it is "Knit, purl. Purl, knit."

view video

Weaving in the Ends

This classic method of dealing with your loose yarn ends won't show on the front of the knitting, and is far more durable than tying any kind of knot!

view video

Three-Needle Bind-Off

Firm method, not invisible. Great for seaming shoulders.

view continental video

Mattress Stitch

Makes an invisible side seam.

view video

Vertical Seam Reverse Stockinette Stitch

aka Mattress Stitch on Reverse Stockinette Invisible vertical seam on reverse stockinette stitch. view video

If you want your side seams to show (not be invisible) you can do a Crochet seam or a backstitch (illustrations from other web sites). Avoid using an overcast/whip stitch! Be sure to work the seam stitch-by-stitch, and not migrate side to side, or it will show. Also, take care not to work the seam too tight; you don't want a pucker along the seam.

Blocking

Here's a great article on blocking.

 

Kitchener Stitch

Kitchener Stitch


Knitting in the Round

I've put these videos in the Advanced Techniques section, but not because they're difficult, they're really not. Simple techniques that allow you suddenly to make mittens and more! Go to that section and check them out!

Basic Alternating Bind-Off

Picking Up Stitches

Also known as "Picking up stitches and knitting"

view video

Knit-One Purl-One Bind-Off

How to make I-cord

view continental video  view english video

Easy! I-cord is a narrow tube of knitting, that is often used for the handles of a bag, cords to tie on a hat, to edge a garment, or appliqued on for a decorative effect.

*Knit a row. Slide row to other end of needle. Do not turn the work. Repeat from *.

 

How to attach i-cord to a garment

*Knit all of the i-cord stitches in the row, except the last stitch. Slip the last stitch. Knit a stitch from the garment (or pick up a stich along edge, if no live stitches). Pass the slipped stitch over garment stitch. Prepare to work the next row by sliding stitches to the other end of right needle (on a DPN or circular needle), or slipping all stitches from right needle onto left needle. Repeat from *.

How to make I-cord

How to Wind a Center-Pull Ball

Remember to wrap the yarn loosely.

view video

Three Needle Bind-Off

Make your own knitting needles

view video

Double Pointed Needles

I enjoy these wooden DPN's, although I often use aluminum ones. If you get frustrated with the aluminum ones sliding out of your work, you'll love these. If you're a tight knitter, I recommend metal/aluminum needles.

Straight needles

I don't really use my long wooden needles, because I prefer the slippery aluminum ones when there are lots of stitches on the needle. But they work, and some people prefer them.

Cable needles

(short DPN's used for making cables) -- I love my wooden cable needles, and prefer them to aluminum or plastic ones. I recommend these for anyone.

 

 

Making Knitting Needles

KnittingHelp.com? Help support our work!

Double Knitting Delight 1 DVD

$29.00

Double Knitting Delight 1 DVD

Double knitting is double the pleasure!

For the adventurous knitter, this exciting area of knitting can become a passion. Double-knitting is easily explained in this visual format. Read more...

Purchasing from our shop helps to support this website!